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Just bought my first mill (2hp bridgeport) Could use some identification help.

darkostoj

Plastic
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Hi guys, I have always wanted a bridgeport and I finally pulled the trigger on one at auction. I was hoping somebody could help let me know what I bought since I know very little about these machines. It was listed as a 2HP with a servo type 150 feeder

I guess my first questions are:

1. Does anybody know how I can find out what year and model it is?

2. Are there DRO's that have a Z-axis as well? I can see that being handy.

3. I paid $4,300 for it. Did I get boned? I bought it because it was in very nice condition.

4. Any other things to note on the machine for someone just getting into this?

Thanks!

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serial number is on the top front of knee, move the table back and it is right in front. As long it runs as good as it looks it seems like a fair price, maybe you could have shopped for a while and got a similar one for a tiny bit less, but not boned for sure.
 
The important parts are covered but it sure looks clean so seems a very reasonable deal. I'd have bid the same.

Which Z axis? There are two, and yes some people have readouts on both so a four axis box.

The serial number should be located on the knee under that front way cover. This will lead you to the year it was made if you care about such things (I really don't bother).

The first thing I would add bar none is a power drawbar. This simply makes it more fun to run.
You of course need a decent collet set and a nice vise. An Indicol and a DTI are also a must.
Best way to learn is by playing around with it and these machines excel at users doing that as they are so forgiving but feedback and talk to you in a way cncs do not.

Check the voltage connections and rewire if needed for your use when it shows up. Easy to do.

Don't move or force the spindle speed dial when the spindle is not running.
Keep oil in it and hit that pump a few times every time you use it. Make this a habit.
Just this side of bullet proof machines. Oh-shit moments will teach you more than anything.
Enjoy.
Bob
 
Just getting into it. The table locks hold the travel from being sucked in with the rotation of the end mill. It will not take long to get a feel for snugging the locks a little as you change direction.
Think about the direction end mill is turning to expect cutting forces to draw the work one way or the other.
It s not uncommon for a new apprentice to break a few end mills with the part being suckered into the feed direction.

If it is as good as it looks then a good price.

Nice first post...
 
Nice looking mill $4300 not bad if that included premium . Hopefully you know some one to move it for you because that can get expensive to haha .
 
Can you post pictures of the ways? What sort of backlash does the table have? Thatll tell you alot about whether thats a solid price or not.

You can get a 3 axis Acu-Rite box thatll use your current scales. I cant tell if you have a Master MP or a MillMate. The MillMate used a special scale, so if you go to get a DRO103 (the basic hobbyist DRO.. no datums, just an XYZ positioning system) or DRO203 (more the "run of the mill" DRO box with a bunch of fun features) you will also need to get interface cables to let the new DRO box read the scales. Ill put the part numbers and list prices for those down below.

Almost every Acu-Rite box is interchangeable with every Acu-Rite and Anilam scale. So if you get your hands on a used 3 axis box, you can use those scales but just need the right interface cables.

With what CarbideBob said, you can get a 3 axis box and eventually get up to 4 axis on there. Acu-Rite makes a summing box so that your quill and knee show up summed together and on one axis of the DRO.

DRO103 PN 1197252-03 list price $775 (we offer 20% off that)
DRO203 PN 1197250-01 list price $875 (again, 20% off that from us)
If thats a MillMate and you go with a new box, you need qty 2 of 683201-03 which lists for $78.

Wow, that was alot more than I planned on typing lol

Jon
H&W Machine Repair
 
That looks to be a nice clean specimen. I think you did OK.

That appears to be an Asong (150?) on the X Axis. Despite what some folks say, I have one and it's proven to be very reliable. Parts are also readily available online from a couple of sources.

The only problem I had with mine was the AC-driven neon "On" lamp got dimmer and dimmer over about 8 years. I opened the box and found that it was driven from the board from two pins that provided 64 VAC. I installed a small rectifier and LED with the appropriate coupling resistor ( 3K ohm, IIRC ) so now I have a nice red "On" indicator lamp.

Enjoy your Bridgeport. Looks nice to me! :)
 
Looks nice and fairly new or lightly used. I think the price is fair if it shows a little ware but if it's like new, it's a great buy. The Servo power feeds are tough and dependable from my experience. In my 40+ years in the business I used a Bridgeport daily without any digital readouts for 20 of those years and the other 20 there was just X and Y axis readout. I have one now with X,Y, and Z on the knee and love it. However, a $300 Quill readout may be all you need for the Z depending on what you're doing.

Not to get off topic but still related to prices, it makes me sick at the prices of used manual machines today. A new Bridgeport mill could cost $16k or more but a used one like this can only fetch $4K with some going for as little as $2k. I only bring this up because I would like to retire soon and but find my equipment worth almost nothing in today's market of high speed CNCs. I have CNCs but even those have depreciated like most electronic stuff does over time. Just ranting...
 
Can you post pictures of the ways? What sort of backlash does the table have? Thatll tell you alot about whether thats a solid price or not.

You can get a 3 axis Acu-Rite box thatll use your current scales. I cant tell if you have a Master MP or a MillMate. The MillMate used a special scale, so if you go to get a DRO103 (the basic hobbyist DRO.. no datums, just an XYZ positioning system) or DRO203 (more the "run of the mill" DRO box with a bunch of fun features) you will also need to get interface cables to let the new DRO box read the scales. Ill put the part numbers and list prices for those down below.

Almost every Acu-Rite box is interchangeable with every Acu-Rite and Anilam scale. So if you get your hands on a used 3 axis box, you can use those scales but just need the right interface cables.

With what CarbideBob said, you can get a 3 axis box and eventually get up to 4 axis on there. Acu-Rite makes a summing box so that your quill and knee show up summed together and on one axis of the DRO.

DRO103 PN 1197252-03 list price $775 (we offer 20% off that)
DRO203 PN 1197250-01 list price $875 (again, 20% off that from us)
If thats a MillMate and you go with a new box, you need qty 2 of 683201-03 which lists for $78.

Wow, that was alot more than I planned on typing lol

Jon
H&W Machine Repair

Knee serial number is BR262043, that puts it at a 1992.

I noticed the serial number websites only go to 1994. Did they stop making bridgeports then?

It has a Mill Mate Acu-Rite DRO

Not sure if I measured these right. I went to the handles and moved it in one direction until it was about to move the table, adjusted dial to 0, then moved in the other direction until the table started to move.

X axis - backlash is 46 thou
Y axis - backlash is 15 thou
Z axis - don't think there is any, felt like 0

The X axis motor brand is "Servo"
 
You can move the table to the end of travel and retest for backlash, this will give you an idea if the screw is more worn in the center. Test each end and center, x and y. Z will never have backlash with the entire weight of the knee and table on it. You can adjust backlash with the nut. Give the oiler a pump before moving things to much.
 
@moldcore sure you can get an import BP new for $16k. I have heard rumors that the heads are assembled here in the States before they ship them to Taiwan or somewhere to get put on the mill. But I can't verify that.

I think another part of the cost picture is location. Here in NE Indiana and NW Ohio, manufacturing is everywhere. And so going to auctions, the price normally gets driven up high for stuff in great shape.

+1 to @Rob F. If you check those backlash numbers at the center of travel, then do the same test on an extreme end of travel, you can use those numbers to tell where the slop truly is. The number (typically) at the extreme of the travel is the slop in the nut. The difference between the backlash in the center and the end is the slop you have in the screw. You can also negate that by moving the vice to a different location that has less play.

Jon
H&W Machine Repair
 
I went to an auction some 25 years ago and there was a row of beautiful bridgeports

3-5 years old maybe

Over 100 thou of backlash on each

Yes, half a turn.

They did aerospace work, hard metals


They also had a granite surface plate

8x12 foot

went for IIRC 1200 bucks

bet the rigging bill was outta sight

Nice looking machine, hope you enjoy
 








 
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