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Just wondering if others have been knurling on their lathe. I tried it once and didn’t like the idea of putting that much pressure on the crossslide and carriage.
What’s a “Cut” Knurl?
I knurled on an HLV-H at work, the first
time it turned out perfect, the second
not as good. I was using a knurling
tool similar to a scissor type. It seems
like the set-up has to be damn near
perfect for the knurl to be be perfect
also.
Hardinge makes a very nice quick change tool post for their manual lathes. The L20 2-wheel knurling tools for it are the cut type. I find them tricky to adjust.
View attachment 271915 View attachment 271916
Larry
I have a little experience with the L20. The diameter of the cylinder to be knurled cannot be any dimension I wanted. The circumference of the piece has to be
a multiple of a tooth width on the wheels. And quite a bit of force is needed when doing tough material.
I prefer my Miller Quick (Innsbruck, Austria) brand 3-wheel cut knurling tools with Morse taper or straight round shanks that are held in the tailstock or turret...
Larry
I have one of the "chuck style" Miller-Innsbruck knurling tools like the one in your photo. Got it ages ago during the "good 'ol days" of eBay and it came without the back plate/shaft. Still have not used it but will need to do some knurling soon.
I thought about making a MT2 shank for it but thought it might rotate in the tailstock bore. Is that not a problem for you?
Larry,
Thanks for the offer, however I have no Miller parts. The only tool for knurling I have is from Dorian that has the flex head. It takes a load of pressure to make it work.
If you got a Miller head that is missing the shank, you will also be missing the three hardened steel adjusting pads. These are for making a slight alinement adjustment and also allow rotational adjustment of the shank in case of having a tang or milled flats.
Larry
View attachment 274388
Slight thread drift, but:-
A number of my original Multifix tool holders are a bit loose on the post (could re-make the cam, but other tool holders seem ok as it is). Are the clones too tight in an 'absolute' sense or just tighter than ones with a bit of life-history?
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