Necessary vs nice to have features on a Bridgeport

I'm realizing that I'm too damn dumb to ask an intelligent question.

I'd like to buy a Bridgeport to play with and learn on. I'm retired and while I'm not saying money is no object, I am saying it is not the main object.

I only have single phase power so a VFD would be required. Not sure which model would be best.

48"

I'd like Vari speed

all Power feeds, including the knee

4 Axis DRO

These are just some things that I want to play with so don't hang me as not really needed.

So that leaves as to what really are needed? I would appreciate your valued inputs. I'm not interested in having the salesman guide me when I place the order. I'm dumb but not that dumb.

I am content with a short table, chrome ways, X axis power feed, and 2 axis DRO.

You don't HAVE to have any of those items. A Bridgeport will function just fine without any of them. But, they are nice to have. I have a vari-speed BP and run mine off of a RPC rather than a VFD. I have three axis DRO (X,Y and quill), power feeds on X, Y and knee and one of the nicest features is the power draw bar. If cost is not an issue for you, get them all.

Ted

You'll likely be best off running the mill of a VFD -- so a Vari Speed pulley will just add complexity and (assuming you're buying used) one more thing to worry about.

Again, assuming you plan to buy used, I'd let condition trump features. You can always add drives, scales, etc. Harder to add a few basics, like table length or a nodding head (which you probably don't need). You say this is a machine to learn on, but not the type of work you want to do. Frankly, most any turret mill in good shape will be good to learn on, handle most hobby work, and be able to be sold for what you paid if you need something more.

If price were no object, and I planned to do larger work, I'd be looking at a turret mill with something heftier than an R8 taper.

In my humble opinion, if you are going to get a VFD anyway you could probably open yourself up to a step pulley model and the possibility of finding one with less hours and in better shape. In the following order, I would just get a 2 Axis DRO for the X and Y ( I prefer Newall) and just get a Mitutoyo (or knock-off) Digimatic quill kit. Use the savings to purchase a power drawbar(I prefer High Quality Tools brand). An electronic edge finder. Power feed on the X axis. Then some sort of quick change chuck to go from center drill to drill and then tap quickly (I switched to a CNC machining center before I implemented this last one).

Also for what its worth, When I started my shop with just one knee mill and one lathe, I had the best luck with Kennemetal ANGT1623 insert mills in the KC725 grade. They performed the best for me with the less than ideal rigidity of a knee mill compared to a machining center.

Chrome ways and good screws are the best thing to have. The most of the rest can be added later.

A Kurt vise mounted on a clean table.
DRO.
Draw bar.
power feeds.
VFD to replace pulley drive.

You don't really need the y axis power feed.
two axis dro-must have. three axis is better
i love the power drawbar

if you get a variable speed model you can run it off a rotary phase converter
benefit of the phase converter is you have it for future three phase machine purchases, which are inevitable.

How much HP? 1, 1.5, 2?

I would assume more is better...not so?

I've had machines from 1 to 3 hp and I really don't notice a difference. Then again I am not making real deep cuts.

Chrome ways
48" table
2 axis DRO
Power draw bar
x-axis power feed
Varispeed
RPC

Not sure why people don't like varispeeds, i would expect 5-10k hours before needing any work. It's 1/2 a day to go thru the head and re-grease/re-bearing everything.

Been cranking handles before most of you were around. Toys are nice, but not needed most of the time. Some guys just want pretty things to show their buddies when they show up.

Chrome ways became standard on BP in the 80s. Most of the table length options went away by 1990 along with the "J" head. The 8F feed was dropped sometime after that.

My mill is a 2J2 with 48" table, 8F feed and Sony DROs. I'd rather have a nice rotary table, vice, dividing head than a bunch of shiny stuff. I am a cheap bastard.

I'd show you pictures, but haven't updated my Photobucket account.
JR

AbitNutz said:

I'm not interested in having the salesman guide me when I place the order. I'm dumb but not that dumb.

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"Salesman"? Implies new. Why not buy American made then?

Bee Pee used to be. Wells-Index still is.

Close enough you can go see, even.

my personal opinion on bridgeport options:
1. dro- 2 axis
2. power drawbar on an r8
3. x axis feed
4. knee power feed, servo type( really nice if you move the knee long distances often)
5. y axis feed
6. quill "digital caliper style" readout
7. knee dro scale- I find that the standard dial is just as accurate- on my series 2 I have a knee scale but it is somewhat affected by gib clearance and table position, much more so than the dial on the elevation screw- its nice as it keeps a running tab on how many revolutions you went but I trust the dial for where to stop more.

list is in " priority order", do it 1-7 and you should be happy

AbitNutz said:

How much HP? 1, 1.5, 2?

I would assume more is better...not so?

Click to expand...

Won't much matter unless you START with what would be my "Zero'eth" priority.

40 Taper. With pull-studs for the power drawbar.

ELSE a nose-locker Quick-Change system and enough tooling for it to not be frustrating.

Life is too short to drink bad wine, use R8, or sleep with b****y women when there are plenty of other options.

A 30 or 40 taper would be nice. Certainly at least an X Axis Servo and 2 Axis DRO.

Newman109 said:

A 30 or 40 taper would be nice. Certainly at least an X Axis Servo and 2 Axis DRO.

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The extra "grunt" of a 40 taper is not needed.

The greater commonality over a 30 taper IS.

More sources. Wider variety for the money. Cheaper tooling. Easier to have more of it.
Other spindles - CNC, many - made that market. Take advantage of it.

R8 is common enough. Fly-poop common, much like 5C. Bee Pee is one of the reasons, possibly the MAJOR reason.

Also slower to change and only about on a par with B&S #7 for grip and grunt.

When there is ZERO prior investment in it - the OP's case? Why even start at R8?

Monarchist said:

"Salesman"? Implies new. Why not buy American made then?

Bee Pee used to be. Wells-Index still is.

Close enough you can go see, even.

Click to expand...

No, no...this would be on a refurbished/rebuilt genuine Bridgeport. I too have no interest in a foreign import...

If you start clicking boxes you can quickly bounce of 20K on a reborn Bridgeport.

AbitNutz said:

No, no...this would be on a refurbished/rebuilt genuine Bridgeport. I too have no interest in a foreign import...

If you start clicking boxes you can quickly bounce of 20K on a reborn Bridgeport.

Click to expand...

I am not saying do not by a used Bee Pee. I will say if you have never used one, it does not MATTER as much that it be a Bee Pee as it might to a person with many years hands-on one.

There are several now-older US and Canadian-made verticals of similar configuration, quality as good, sometimes better. The smaller ones? Meahh.. not my cuppa. May as well use my little horizontal. Stiffer mill. More power.

A few verticals are a bit larger. Taiwan made some good ones, so too, the Basque country and Italy. They don't need a lot more space. They can be nicer to work with, even if you do not need stiffer and stouter, 'coz it makes lighter work go more easily, too.

Most go cheaper for the same level of wear as a comparable Bee Pee. Often MUCH cheaper. They don't command a premium price on "popularity" as BP mills or SB lathes do.

Most ARE harder to get parts for than old Bee Pees. A select few are easier. Wells-Index, for example is still in the USA, still making NEW vertical mills, but can only supply parts but so far back, not to "forever ago".

Some have much less wear. For a newbie? "Less wear" might be the smartest point to chase, all else aside. Really. It can be.

Big time saver "ready to work" can be. Better results with fewer "gotchas" that a OLD miil-hand already knows where to look for and has ways to work around before he powers-on. You are not "there" yet. We wish we not have to be, either, but worn stuff is the reality.

Any saving goes into the tooling budget, of course.

Many of us here are tooled clear to the walls, have duplicates. A newbie is usually naked.

For a USED mill? That tooling budget is usually more than the spend on the mill itself ELSE grows to it quickly.

Vise(s), parallels, dead-blow, wrenches, handles, draw bars, rotab(s), dividing head(s), clamp sets of all types, sine plates, angle plates, tilt tables.....

Power. RPC or VFD.

Lots of stuff beside toolholders and cutting tools, but those as well.
The newer you are, the more of it will be consumed, too. Gets dulled if not also broken.

No fear. We all had to learn that way.

Do look at the bigger picture.

No point gloating over chromed ways if you have no 3-Phase power, no vise, no clamps, no end-mills, and no money left for metal to mill if you did have.

2CW

And be sure it has one shot lube!!!

JohnEvans said:

And be sure it has one shot lube!!!

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..that is still in working order.

More likely to have not already been abraded to death, yes.

Dry or busted reservoir, damaged plumbing, signs it had not been working in years?

WORSE sign of neglect than if it was never there to begin with. Some folks just do not give a damn, and those are among their many grubby footprints..