Need advice! 2j 2hp or 1.5hp
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  1. #1
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    Default Need advice! 2j 2hp or 1.5hp

    Hi all. I'm about to purchase a used Bridgeport series 1 from a machine wholesaler and he has 2 series 1 2j heads. One is the older 1974 1.5hp vari drive the other is a 1984 2hp vari drive. The older 1.5hp has a lot of play in the gibs but the head is as quiet as can be. I like the newer 2hp better is is very tight and looks in a lot better shape but the head has the typical noisy rattle rattle and is worse is higher and lower rpm in both speed ratios but seems to get better in the mid rpm range.
    My question is would I be better off to get him to put the quiet 1.5hp head on the newer mill or get the 2hp mill like it is and rebuild the head so I would have a little more hp?

    If I get the 2hp mill like it sits with the noisy head I can get it for about $850 cheaper than if we swapped out the heads.

  2. #2
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    Hello Cferrell84,
    There have been a bunch of Bridgeport questions lately, and I have given each person the same thoughts: You can get all the parts and info to fix a Series1 2J mill at H&W (H&W Machine Repair & Rebuilding - Parts and Service for the Metalworking Industry). I have no affiliation with them, but when I got my own Bridgeport, a 1979 Series 1, 2J head, they were extremely helpful in providing me with the parts, information, and advice to rebuild the 2J head and also to service and repair a number of other parts of the mill. Rebuilding the head is not terribly difficult if you are mechanically inclined, and gives you a good opportunity to really get to know the guts of the machine. My machine was VERY dirty inside the head, and I took my time, and disassembled and cleaned everything. I replaced all the bearings, belts, and rebuilt the Varidrive shafts and bushings. This is reasonably easy if you follow the directions. The only really tricky part is making sure that the spring on the motor varidrive is properly compressed and locked off, as it is quite strong and could really hurt you if you just went all Bubba on it. When I did my rebuild I was recently retired and took my time. As I recall it took several days, working slowly and just enjoying it.

    If all that is wrong with the head is noisy, rattley stuff replacing the varidrive bushings may solve the problem. In any case, a full rebuild kit for the top half of the head is around $295 (Bridgeport Rebuild Kits).

    Good luck with the mill. I have added a Newall DP1200 DRO, a MaxiTorqueRite powered drawbar, and many small tweaks, and it has been a good tool for me.

    All the best,
    Michael

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    My answer is a lot shorter!
    It's way cheaper to rebuild a head than to scrape ways!
    JR

    BTW, The "Series I" crap was just marketing by Textron. Very few mills actually had that on them.

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    Yeah definitely not getting the whole mill that is loose but was thinking about taking the 1.5hp head that is nice and quiet off it and putting on the mill that has the 2hp noisy head but itll cost me $850 more to do that than just leaving the 2hp head on it

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    Primary head noise is the vari-drive belt, $65-$95. The motor on both heads reverses nicely at speed. Great for tapping but eventually tough on the drive belt. A worn spot on the belt will get worse over time and produce head noise. If the belt is bad enough the oscillation will pop the bushings loose from the epoxy. The 1.5hp and 2.0hp heads take the same vari-drive belt.
    Bushings and keys are not interchangeable between the 1.5hp and 2.0hp heads.
    Parts for the 2.0hp head, belt, bushings, and keys should easily be less than $150 and there are a number of sources.
    Why would you pass up a chance to save $700?
    What will you do when the 1.5hp head starts to make noise?
    It might be fine now but it will not always be so.
    I'd take the 2.0 for heavier cuts.
    For common light work the 1.5 will exceed the need and still have spare hp for sausage! OT: Bridgeport Meat Grinder

    bridgeport-002.jpg

    John

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    Yeah I went ahead and got the 2hp model I was thinking the 1.5 would prob need rebuilding sometime anyways so may as well save some money on the mill and spend a little rebuilding the head and then I know I would have a good one with new parts in the head

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    I got it home and hooked up to my vfd and running good but the dial won't go below 2100rpm in high gear (and equilavelt in low gear). It hits a stiff spot and the dial won't turn anymore and I don't want to force it

  9. #8
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    Remove the capscrews to remove the dial-speed change assembly. Inspect the chain and the assembly. The belt is visible too. The chain rewinds in both directions but only one of the directions is correct.

    When the spindle speed cannot be adjusted beyond an rpm this usually indicates that there is a sheared key. Another symptom is when cutting under load the spindle slows down. The fix I would do is install new keys and bushings for the front and rear varidrive discs. It's a teardown of the top end and a good time to inspect the belts.
    John
    Last edited by jhruska; 03-08-2016 at 11:05 PM.


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