Need Bridgeport mill table advice - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Well, first reaction, ILL BE! so it can be done..

    BUT, hmm, don't believe everything you read on the internet.. SOUNDS plausible, cast iron parts do start out red hot..
    It's still a total crapshoot to to take a torch to a ground and scraped machine casting tho. (if it was predictable, they would do it at H&W Machine)
    Glenurban, exactly HOW did you heat that up? what sequence is that you used?
    how did you measure bow, straightness, and flatness? seems like it could be a week old
    french fry, shape wise, even if the bow is reduced, is the table flat/straight?how far do you have to back out the gib to keep it from binding up?

    I guess if you have full tanks, some time on your hands, and think its worth risking trashing the table to take out the bow, go for it!

    try it on a scrap table [or three]first,interesting project for someone, is the result reproducible, consistent, and predictable?

  2. #22
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    Yes I aimed at 45 degrees to heat the side of the "tee" mainly, since I reasoned... that's probably where the stress is located.
    The zone discolored by heat on the surface of the table ended up about 2" by 3/4" for each spot.
    Although, I don't actually know if that's the best way, but it sure worked. I did it over the course of two days, as I was doing other things. It didn't take much gas at all, but it takes some time and patience, to do one or two spots then wait for it to cool, and you can't really CHECK progress until the next day.

    Heating the surface would probably work too, different patterns could be tried. lines front to back maybe? Might actually do better. As I said over a year it has sagged slightly.
    I did MAKE parallels, 2x3 by 16" after straightening the table. Flycut both sides, measured the thickness, they were .0004 thinner in the middle. No wave evident, just a gentle curve.

  3. #23
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    Did i need to shim it he gib?
    The 1968 bridgeport needed a .015 shim on the gib, I re-scraped the saddle, I don't even know what it had before, it was a basket case. i don't even know if all the parts are from the same machine LOL.

    the bridgeport series 2 i just did, I had to back it off 3/16 of an inch, so far. didn't remove the table. saddle is chromed, I'm going to assume it is ok.

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  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glenurban View Post
    Did i need to shim it he gib?
    The 1968 bridgeport needed a .015 shim on the gib, I re-scraped the saddle, I don't even know what it had before, it was a basket case. i don't even know if all the parts are from the same machine LOL.

    the bridgeport series 2 i just did, I had to back it off 3/16 of an inch, so far. didn't remove the table. saddle is chromed, I'm going to assume it is ok.
    well, sounds like good work! not sure everyone has your touch for it. no harm trying on a basket case I guess. thanks for your efforts and info. lets see if others can replicate. very interesting... (if you had to back the gib out 3/16 sounds like there is some twist in it now.. whats the play in the table to saddle front to back?)

  6. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyanidekid View Post
    well, sounds like good work! not sure everyone has your touch for it. no harm trying on a basket case I guess. thanks for your efforts and info. lets see if others can replicate. very interesting... (if you had to back the gib out 3/16 sounds like there is some twist in it now.. whats the play in the table to saddle front to back?)
    It's too soon to say.
    Straightening the table has certainly changed exactly where the dovetails were making contact.
    I am expecting that once the rust/dirt/insect carcasses/fossilized oil and whatever else is jammed in there..... works it's way out with use, I'll need to tighten it back up....but only time will tell.

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