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  1. #1
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    Default New dv59 restore -ing

    Got a new dv59, and first had to replace the power plug because it had a turnex woodworking plug on it, after much ordering and returning got a matched plug that worked.

    only to find out my 220 wiring int he garage was 3 strand, so now have 4 strand, still have to install it...

    when i looked under the hood i discovered someone had gutted the electrical, so i bought some switches on E-bay still need a brake and connecter rods.

    anyway here is the picture under the door:
    wdscn6489.jpg

    and a rendering with photoshop

    wire1.jpg

    but my machine doesn't have a coolant pump or a sump to install one so:

    wire2.jpg

    it doesn't really leave alot of connections.
    my next problem is that the switch i ordered off ebay only has 3 and 6 switches

    _57.jpg

    but i think i can get it too work since i don't have the coolant pump

    but...

    i am confused as to this diagram because it doesn't show where the power comes in, and without the pump like i said it doesn't have a lot of connections.

    any suggestions for a wiring diagram? also i think i am still missing a few components like
    a magnetic starter, any suggestions on a model that is compatible with this old 70yr old.


    thanks Bob

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    Lets start with figuring out what you do have, and then we can point you what needs to be done.

    Nice photos of the following will be needed.

    1. The spindle motor nameplate.
    2. The inside of the electrical cabinet.
    3. The nameplate on the door.
    4. The side of the electrical cabinet nearest the operator side of the lathe.
    5. Inside the door under the headstock.
    6 A good view of the front of the lathe.

    Do you have a phase converter?
    I do have one of similar vintage to compare with yours.

    Bill

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  4. #3
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    Default

    dscn6578.jpg
    dscn6580.jpg
    dscn6581.jpg
    dscn6582.jpg
    dscn6587.jpg

  5. #4
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    dscn6593.jpg
    dscn6596.jpg

    pretty sure this is aftermarket motor

    dscn6597.jpg
    dscn6598.jpg
    dscn6606.jpg

  6. #5
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    Default

    dscn6601.jpg
    dscn6600.jpg

    pretty sure the brake is missing, dunno if also a double belt pully

    dscn6589.jpg
    dscn6588.jpg

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    It is basically an empty box.

    The motor is twice the high speed of the OEM.
    No Brake, or even the mounting panel in the box.

    I think the best choice is to VFD the lathe.
    On step 2 of the motor pulley, you should have 2200-2300 RPM on the spindle.

    Bill

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    variable frequency drive, had to wikipedia that one

    cool but i don't even know if the motor works, i may have to replace it, which seems about the same cost as
    the VFD, do you know the specs off hand, for the original?

    at the moment i am trying to wire the switches- to the levers- to the motor- and the power,

    i assume i will need a transformer, fuseable link, and some suggestions say a
    magnetic starter.(maybe that is 1940's ligo)

    but it may be easier to just but a whole electric circuit from someone who has already
    upgraded their lathe, since i have noticed that there is a riser plate missing too.

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    Since you have an empty electrical box, the VFD is a very practical suggestion. I would say you need a power cord, terminal and fuse block. Never done one from scratch. Others that have done it will be more help. Oh and a switch for the coolant pump, no reason to have that speed vary or reverse with the spindle motor.

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    That is a 1946 model step pulley DV59.

    You have the wrong kind of motor, which is a replacement, maybe for someone turning wood, or maybe just to get a cheap motor that would run on 220 V three phase instead of 440 V. You wasted your money on those two switches unless you get a two speed motor like the original and a phase converter. One switch is for selecting high and low speed on the motor and the other is for selecting forward and reverse, as controlled by the levers on the front of the lathe.

    The original standard motor was a two speed three phase. Your lathe had a 440 V, but they also sold 220 V and 550 V. The high motor speed was 1750 RPM and the low speed was 850 RPM at one half the rated HP of the high speed. Your speed plate is a special, with a 2600 RPM top speed. The standard motor and pulleys had a top speed of 3500 RPM. The headstock spindle pulley should have two grooves, as should the countershaft output pulley.

    If you get a 220 V three phase 1750 RPM motor rated at 1 HP, you can hook it directly to a VFD that has its own push buttons for on-off, fwd-rev and a speed control. Best of all, you can get a 1 HP VFD that will run the 1 HP 220 V three phase motor from an ordinary 110 V single phase outlet. Or you can get a 2 HP 1750 RPM 220 V three phase motor and a 220 V single phase input VFD. If you get a VFD, you will not need those old yellow switches, the old motor starter, the plug you bought, a transformer or a new magnetic motor starter. You do need a disconnect for the power to the VFD. The simple way is to use a power cord that can be unplugged at the wall, especially if you use a single phase input VFD.

    Larry

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    What Larry is missing is you need the switches you bought if you want to run the lathe with the existing levers. He is saying to run the lathe with the keypad on the VFD. That's OK to check things out, but not a good long term solution.

    For the high low lever, provide 2 speed pots to set the speed you want for high and the other for low.
    The switch simply connects the wiper of the selected pot to the speed input of the VFD If there is a detent plate that has 3 positions, I would make a new one with only 2 positions. There is no need stop when changing speeds. You will need to swap the cams around between the switches to get your Fwd off Rev logic to control the VFD, and the High Low speed configuration.

    The motor looks like it may be connected for 440 Volts (6 connections with 2 wires in each). The 240 Volt will have 4 connections of 3 wires each.

    I would start with the existing motor to figure out if the spindle runs properly, meaning good bearings.

    The obround hole on the side of the panel had a start/stop button assembly in it.
    Probably Cutler Hammer brand.

    If you twistlock plug is a L14-30, the prong opposite the ground should be silver, this is used on single phase with ground and neutral, what you need for this application.
    If it is a L15-30, all prongs are brass it is for 3 phase. maybe you could trade it back for a L14-20,
    (You don't need a 30 Amp for this machine).

    Bill

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    thanks for the info larry, that is good to know, i will need to replace the motor

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    bill it had a turnex, and i replaced it with a "NEMA-L14-30-30A-125-250V-3-Pole-4W-Grounding-Plug" from somewhere in east asia, had to order the plug and receptacle separate because i found that the nemas' locking post is tunred the other direction from a turnex, only to find i only had 3 strand at the box, so today I am rewiring for 4 strand, because when i wired it and flipped the switch the motor just moaned, leading me to the belief that it would in fact need all 4 wires. if what larry says is right and i need a 2 speed 2HP, the lima is probably gonna go.

    really i wanted a screw turning lathe but didn't have the money, however it looks as if i am going to be about 3,000 into this betty when i get it wired, as it was 800 plus 900 shipping, and the motor/transformer/block/starter/switches/brake is looking like another 600 to 700 plus the VFD which would be nice to have a digital readout telling me the RPM's at the spindle.

    oh, also i checked and the slot where the belt go's into the spindle is only wide enough for one belt which lead
    me to believe that it only ever had 1 belt, which is different then all the trade manuals i have read.

    which leads me full circle to the question:
    does any one know the proper model/ rating of a transformer for the 2hp 220 motor?

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    oh yes, i figured i would need the brake for hot shifting from fwd to reverse... can't imagine what i would ever use that for, but then i imagine this machine will be used by the kids too eventually and kids tend to break things on accident by doing something just like that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bobtype1 View Post
    which leads me full circle to the question:
    does any one know the proper model/ rating of a transformer for the 2hp 220 motor?
    Why do you think you need a transformer?
    The existing motor is dual voltage, and looks like it is connected for the higher voltage.
    Just reconnect it for the lower voltage and give it a spin. The connection diagram is on it's nameplate.

    I am assuming you are bringing your Neutral from your breaker box to your receptacle?

    NOTE:
    You have a single phase electrical if your shop is at your house.
    The motor is 3 phase. You need to have something to convert single phase to 3 phase. A static or rotary phase converter, or a VFD.
    The VFD route will allow you to have variable speed.

    You can use the VFD to reverse the spindle rotation without needing a brake.
    VFD's provide an electrical braking function internally.

    Bill

    You can give the motor a trial run on single phase to allow you to check things out.
    The voltage to each line to your neutral (white wire) should be around 120 Volts, and line to line (Black to Red) should be around 240 Volts.
    Leave the white wire disconnected from the motor wires, (you will have only 2 wires wired to the top of your switch).
    Give the spindle a spin and turn the power on before the spindle stops.
    It may take a couple of trys to make it work.

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    Here's a better view of that diagram and also what it looks like in hardware.






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    rewired with 4 strand... no joy. motor still just moans, tried spinning it both directions after power on
    no luck, will try your spin first method. i think the motor was wired for 220 but will check again.
    got the control arms for the switches in the mail yesterday, so i am going to try to fabricate a riser
    board for the electrical components.

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    thanks jim that looks really clean, do you have a coolant pump on yours? because that was what was hanging me up
    not having one in the circuit

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    Coolant pump yes, but this has a purely mechanical coolant pump - basically a small gear pump driven off the
    countershaft. Not electrical.

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    hmmm, guess i am going to have to get a bigger switch if i really need all those connections, and the magnetic starter looks different then the ones they sell today but i will make do i guess. tried bill's method of turning the shaft first then turning it on, no good. short of labeling all the wires and rewiring, i am thinking new motor.
    it will probably be a bit before i can buy both; fixed income and all. i'll be in touch.

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    If you are trying to run it with the white wire connected to one of the motor phases,
    you will never be able to get it to run at all unless it is not connected.

    If you post a better picture of the leads in the motor junction box, we can tell how it is connected now.

    Bill


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