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  1. #21
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    "only to find out my 220 wiring int he garage was 3 strand, so now have 4 strand, still have to install it..."

    Um, the motor in the machine right now (and you are correct, not the original motor) is three phase.

    If you don't have three phase power in your garage, then you need to take an alternate approach.

    either

    1) rotary converter or

    2) VFD unit.

  2. #22
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    checked the wiring, it is set up for 220 as in figure #4 post, 3 sets 2, 1 set 3wires, i am thinking it did work before at some time, and i have never heard of a motor going bad, just dirty or brushes replaced. but the woodworking plug makes me think maybe they were running it on 440 with the 220 config hence the amps to turn it without a magnetic starter... but i am not an electrical major, so maybe i am just dumb or something. i found some other stuff wrong in the back too, one of the bolts on the alignment table for the motor was missing and they just stuffed a piece of wood inbetween the motor and the wall, must have been shaky as all get out and loud too, all for a 22cent nut available at the hardware store.

    but i am out of money for the moment, and i can't get the motor to turn over, i was thinking i could remap the wires but i don't have a multi-meter at the moment.

    when i got the lathe i found mud on the back, so i am thinking someone salvaged it from a junk yard, and the rust would lead me to believe it was outside at least for a while.

  3. #23
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    so am i correct in assuming i need the 3 phase for the 'high low' shift knob to work or can i replace the motor with a single phase 2hp 220v and still have that lever work? stuff to think about when i am picking out a motor.

  4. #24
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    "i have never heard of a motor going bad, just dirty or brushes replaced.:

    They do go bad, but I don't think yours is. No brushes in a 3 phase motor.

    "but the woodworking plug" You have stated "turnex woodworking plug" Turnex is a brand, most are compatible with the NEMA Twist Lock. They are used on many applications besides wood working.

    "maybe they were running it on 440 with the 220 config" Not likely! That motor will be drawing 10+ amps if powered by 480 but connected for 240, and burning up in 5 min or so, or tripping the overloads in 1-2 min. There are 2 heaters in the manual starter and you can see what heater number is, then check the chart inside the cover of the manual starter. Should be sized for 4+ amps for 240 Volts and 2+ amps for 480. You should verify the motor wire numbers of the 3 wire connection, should be 4,5,6.

    " hence the amps to turn it without a magnetic starter" I have no clue what you are trying to say.

    " i can't get the motor to turn over" Have you tried with the white wire not connected to the motor?

    " i was thinking i could remap the wires" You don't need a meter to verify that it is correctly connected for 240 Volts.

    "so am i correct in assuming i need the 3 phase for the 'high low' shift knob to work" No you need the OEM motor that is 2 speed (and hard to find), or run the existing motor with a VFD.

    "can i replace the motor with a single phase 2hp 220v and still have that lever work?" Short answer is NO.

    Bill

  5. #25
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    thanks bill. the magnetic starter is like a capaciter, and sends a jolt of amps to get the motor to turn over then resumes what ever like 20 amps. the white wire is a neutral and is just connected to the ground in the breaker box
    ergo when i was running 3 strand it didn't have a white wire. so no luck there. i was looking at a 2hp GE for around $200 that should take care of the 3 phase problem gotta check the shaft diameter to make sure it is compatible with my pully. probably won't be for a few months. i will post photos as i progress

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobtype1 View Post
    the magnetic starter is like a capaciter,
    This could not be further from the truth. I have worked on thousands of them over the last 52 years and none of them were like a capacitor.
    I suggest that you study up on basic electrical theory regarding motors (single phase, 3 phase and consequent pole 3 phase motors)

    Quote Originally Posted by bobtype1 View Post
    the white wire is a neutral and is just connected to the ground in the breaker box
    I know that, the question has been and still is DID YOU CONNECT THE WHITE WIRE TO THE MOTOR WINDING when you were trying to get the motor to run by spinning it first.

    Since you seem to have your own ideas how this should work, (that is wishful thinking at best) I will sign off this thread till I get a PM from you.

    Bill

  7. #27
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    "When the "start" button is pressed, the motor is not powered directly, rather the electromagnet in the contactor is energized. The magnetic switch in the contactor then engages, simultaneously switching current to the motor and providing self-sustaining current to maintain its own state. Thus when the start button is released, the magnetic switch remains engaged and the motor remains running."

    Magnetic starter - Wikipedia

    see, capaciter...

    it seems you are kinda a bully titanium, can't imagine you will be much help, restoring a 1940 rig,
    i did however find a group of guys who drill wells and deal with 2hp motor all the time, and said they could
    help out with my electrical lack of knowledge.

    don't bother to reply
    the last word is yours

  8. #28
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    Bobtype1 No one was being a bully. They are trying to help. You are confused on electricity. Here are some facts 1 It sounds like you have only single phase power. 2 Your lathe is 3 phase power and is duel voltage. Try this. Take the motor out of the lathe. Make sure the motor is wired for the 220 3 phase. Hook your 220 volt single phase wiring to the motor. To do this you will hook your 2 hot wires to any of the 3 input lines on your 3 phase motor.. one of them will not be hooked up . hook a ground wire not your neutrial wire to the frame of the motor. wrap a piece of rope around the pully and give it a pull. while the motor is still spinning power it up. It should run on your single phase power. If you can get this figured out put it back in the lathe and do the same thing. In the end you will have to get a phase converter or a vfd will be a better choice because it will convert your single phase juice to 3 phase and give you variable speed . Your motor also has too high of speed. Pullys might get it into a speed range of some kind of use. If you can figure this out there might be some hope for you .

  9. #29
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    this is how to spend some money
    dscn6751.jpg
    bought this brake for $70, the cork $3 (cork is 1.75"x1.5")
    dscn6753.jpg
    made a rig
    dscn6754.jpgdscn6755.jpg
    remove old cork
    dscn6756.jpg
    appears to be about 1.25 inch deep

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  11. #30
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    dscn6757.jpgdscn6759.jpg
    old cork is about 1.25"x1.25"
    dscn6760.jpgdscn6761.jpg
    after the dremel and installed
    dscn6762.jpg
    reinstalled

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  13. #31
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    dscn6763.jpgdscn6766.jpg
    remove set screw from flywheel, and make sure not to lose keyway
    dscn6767.jpgdscn6768.jpg
    clean area, remove cotter pin
    dscn6769.jpg
    make a note of adjustment thread spacing

  14. #32
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    dscn6770.jpgdscn6771.jpg
    remove set screw and spring( also pin if not stuck )
    dscn6772.jpg
    install brake housing, with flywheel pushed to side
    dscn6773.jpgdscn6774.jpg
    to adjust thread, turn counter clockwise (with allen key)

  15. #33
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    dscn6775.jpgdscn6776.jpg
    when adjustment thread is up move flywheel back into position
    dscn6777.jpgdscn6778.jpg
    turn plunger clockwise to set tension on brake
    dscn6779.jpg
    until adjustment thread is back to marked position

  16. #34
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    dscn6780.jpg
    make sure slot is in the forward position
    dscn6781.jpgdscn6783.jpg
    reinstall: pin, spring, set screw
    dscn6784.jpgdscn6785.jpg
    check headspace, between run and brake position

  17. #35
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    dscn6786.jpg
    check headspace, from old lever
    dscn6787.jpg
    don't forget your cotter pin

    not a bad way to spend a weekend with the kids

  18. #36
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    yea more money! and new stuff, got this off ebay
    dscn6905.jpgdscn6906.jpgdscn6907.jpg

    i dont think it is for the lathe because it has a power block for an oil pump

    dscn6909.jpg

    maybe the original color: olive drap green

  19. #37
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    some assembly required

    dscn6910.jpgdscn6913.jpg

    already had to sets of mounting holes, had to drill a third, about 7holes, with the goto for the motor wires
    the wall was about 1/4 inch thick, used a carbide drill and metal bit for dremel
    993 Tungsten Carbide Cutter - dremel.com

    dscn6914.jpgdscn6915.jpgdscn6916.1.jpg

    these bolts (in the back) can be used to adjust the motor for proper belt placement. when i got the lathe
    this nut was missing and someone had just put a board in to stop the mount from chattering. that couldn't
    have been good for the bearings, only cost about .70cents to fix.

  20. #38
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    dscn6918.jpg

    finally mounted, about 3 hours

    dscn6920.jpg

    still missing a control arm... might have to make one.

    dscn6922.jpg

    next up spark chasing and wiring


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