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  1. #41
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    Rotary converter on the cheap:



    This runs a lathe like this fine:



    It may look a bit familiar:





    This is a 240 volt machine so easy to set up with that rotary. Rotary converter runs other
    machines in the shop as well. The electrics cabinet looks simpler as this is an older
    machine. Good luck with your setup.

  2. #42
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    i checked out rotary converters, looks like they want $300-800 for a new one, no old ones around...
    i hate to admit it but i have been putting off buying a motor because i haven't bought a caliper
    micrometer; even though they are only $20, so i can't measure the input shaft. at this point it
    is either a phase converter which i found for $80, (probably get it next month) or the entire new
    motor $200.

    and then its off to the races with $1,000.- of accessories... chucks and collets, tapers and madrels
    tool holders and bits, knurling and dog plates. and don't get me started on the cooling lube oils.
    gosh it will be dec 2020 before i ever turn a round

    thanks for giving me your support, its been very helpful to have experience and references.

    guess i will have to wire this week. i think my new box has about twice as many power blocks as it
    needs so i may just pull them out and putty over the holes.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobtype1 View Post

    bought this brake for $70, the cork $3 (cork is 1.75"x1.5")
    Attachment 240069
    240069-new-dv59-restore-ing-dscn6753.jpg
    All I keep thinking is Fred Flinstone's car.

    -Doozer

  4. #44
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    ah... yes, it has yet to be tested. although i have ordered the phase converter and it should be here next week. a little spark chasing and we will see, if i need new bearings. it has been to some debate. i was my self wondering if i would have to adjust it again, as i didn't set it extremely tight and it is softer than the original. but the one i took out was also a aftermarket mod which appeared to be well used.

  5. #45
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    Hmm... :|

    got my phase converter in the mail... and it is a VFD. from china

    strange it said USA on the page i got it. i read another post on this site that said:
    'when you buy crap from china and it doesn't come with instructions you are enabling them
    by writing instructions for them.'


    which touched me because i have a whole youtube page about how much my computer software
    tech support sucks or is non-existent. and thus by making my own explanations i am enabling them... duh

    which leads me back to my problem. i have a vfd, instead of a phase converter. which i got into an argument with diamond, because he was being dogmatic; and i said: this is a 'restore' not an update if i wanted an upgrade I would get a tormach.

    so as i understand the concept the vfd has a dial which adjusts the phase and increases the speed. so if i turn it all the way up it should just offer the phase converting properties. it has 3 lines in 3 lines out, that seems pretty self explanatory, (unless i cross them and blow the transistor) but the question remains:

    do i install it between the power and the switch, or the switch and the motor?

    because i want the on/off switch to act as a safety cutoff. so if i install it before the switch the vfd will stay on. and if i install it after (the change in voltage, again may blow the transistor) when i switch from fwd/rev or low to high.

    decisions decisions...

    will keep abreast of developments...

  6. #46
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    Yea! success.

    well sort of, i plugged the vfd directly into the motor and got it to turn over

    so we have learned that the motor is in fact intact. and also i used the dial to slowly increase the
    speed until it was at maximum since it has not been run in years. and we also learned that the bearings
    are intact; since it purrs like a kitten at full speed. unfortunately i don't have a collet, chuck, live center
    or tool holder. so i can't test it under a load until i get some accessories.

    i was disappointed though, that it does not just jump up and run. i have to press start on the vfd, this rules out mounting it inside the cabinet. also the brake was so tight i had to revolve it back two turns until it would turn at all not leaving much bite. and last but not least i had to turn the hand wheel a few times to get it to start, and even then it set the internal circuit breaker in the vfd several times at various %. however i turned it up all the way and used my hand on the handwheel to simulate a load and it did not error. this could be problematic when i am ready to cut and have to fiddle with the vfd to get it to start. also how is it going to respond to the manual switches with the fwd/rev and brake hi/low will it error upon a change in amps?

    perhaps this is not a solution but for the moment we know the motor and bearings are good, and that is enough for now.


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