Thread: Pictures of your Hardinge DV 59, DSM 59, TR 59, ESM 59, tooling and setups

Originally Posted by hitandmiss

And I forgot the Hardinge D3 tool presetter.
It makes setting tools on center a breeze.

Is there anything special about that presetter ? ,it looks like something I might be able to make.

The D3 is set for 2.315". From the bed to spindle center is about 4.5"

Keep your eyes open for any geometric chasers.

"Can I put a http link to one of the craigs lists adds so you can see how much stuff they have?" Put the link in a PM

Bill

Bill they have lots of chasers. The only chasers they said they were low on is 10-32 for a 5/16 die head. That is one of the things I am going back to get. They told me $5 used $20 new. They had a lot more die heads than the last time I went there. I went looking for a 9/16 DSA with a 5/8 shank. they did not have one like that. They didn't think they made a DSA 9/16 with a 5/8 shank. They have been selling things off since at least last October. I did not go there until some time in January . I was overwhelmed with all the tooling they had. They have tooling with 5/8 , 3/4, 1 inch and maybe larger shanks. Of course ever time I go back there is a little less there. So someone is buying the stuff.


Mark

They said they were putting ads on craigs list in different parts of the country and getting results. In some of there adds they have different pictures.

You might want to search craigs list for Lasalle co Ill. Type in screw machine.

Originally Posted by mastuart

Ok we know the Hardinge D3 preset tool works on the lever cross slide. Does anyone know what other preset tools are needed to use a DSM or DV59?

In the Hardinge tooling catalog I have there is five setting tools listed . They are C2, D3, L2, N2, N2G. They do not list what machine each one is used for.

That's a really excellent question that I'd like to learn the answer for myself. I have put off buy setting gages from eBay several times because I wasn't sure which ones were appropriate for the DV/DSM.

I just made a new back for my 9/16" DSA head. Need to make a better one for my 3/4"

For my 5/16" head I am looking for 5MM X .8. Projection preferred but anything is better than nothing.

I now have a 1/2" DSA and am looking for 3/8"-16 and 1/2-24 for it.

If you have a mill and a surface grinder, there are lots of nice goodies to be had.

I will call them tomorrow.

Bill

Sfriedberg I was looking on ebay and seen a 1975 Hardinge brochure the DV 59. You can see in one of the pictures the L2 setting gage. It states that It is used on the DV 59 for setting tools.

Hitandmiss I went to the screw machine shop today . I asked about what you were looking for. You must have already called them. Anyhow the
5mm x.8 chasers they said they have never had any but they cut that thread all the time. They said to use 10-32 and adjust it for size. I didn't do the math but I believe them. They were looking for the tools you are looking for. They have so much stuff there that they didn't even know they had. They also said they had no chasers for a 1/2 inch head .

Originally Posted by mastuart

Anyhow the 5mm x.8 chasers they said they have never had any but they cut that thread all the time. They said to use 10-32 and adjust it for size.

Coincidentally, last night I found some M5-0.8 screws mixed up in my box of 10-32 fasteners. So they are real close.

Problem is that even if you get the right diameter, there's about a 0.8% thread pitch error. Doesn't sound like much, but the error becomes quite noticeable for anything but a short thread engagement. The standards don't talk directly about pitch width tolerances; you have to know the pitch diameter tolerance for the desired class of fit, then work it out geometrically. But if you tried to use an M5 coupling nut with a bastard M5-32tpi, you'd see a problem in a hurry. For a jam nut, no problem at all.

Not a Hardinge, could not aford one back then. The foto is a foto of a foto, sorry about the quality. The fixture is for slotting 5/16 -24 half dog shear screws. We did about 10,000 to 20,000 at a time. The fixture is strictly mechanical. Pulled the handle back and it unlocked the clamp and ejected the screw. Put another in and push it into the blade. About 10 parts a minute. The screws were blanked in a previous operation on the same machine. I used shop made all thread, pushed the bars through a diehead on a South Bend 9C. On the hand screw, the stop was on the back tool holder, the form tool on the front, and used the overhead slide for the cutoff blade. I think I did about 8 a minute on that.

Thanks Fred These type machines are pretty handy if you use your imagination.

Mark

Here is a link to the tooling I'm using on a DV-59

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...dv-59-tooling/

Thanks for posting.
Got any pictures of parts you make on yours? Any pictures of setups?

I have several posts on this thread, tooling and parts made.

Hardinge Turning Tools For Turret - Needing Some Help!

and more stuff here:

Just bought a Hardinge ESM-59 lathe; questions about tooling up

I recently got a Brown & Sharp 105-200 releasing tap holder.

I think im missing a part! Can anyone with one take a picture of the internals of theirs?

It says in the online catalog you can switch the tapping action from right handed to left handed by changing the roll to another pocket. I don't have a roll??

Any help?

Thanks!

Not sure the B&S 105-200 is like the corresponding Hardinge part, but if it is, you will have to remove the outer shell (screw at the bottom of the tool shank hole) to get to the left-right toggle.

Originally Posted by Pressman

I recently got a Brown & Sharp 105-200 releasing tap holder.

I think im missing a part! Can anyone with one take a picture of the internals of theirs?

It says in the online catalog you can switch the tapping action from right handed to left handed by changing the roll to another pocket. I don't have a roll??

Any help?

Thanks!

You can make a roll by shortening a steel dowel pin. The roll has to be free to move, so no oil or grease on it.

Larry

Originally Posted by L Vanice

You can make a roll by shortening a steel dowel pin. The roll has to be free to move, so no oil or grease on it.

Larry

Any pointers on diameter of the dowel I should use?