R8 Collet set for Bridgeport

D6c · Dec 9, 2014

Has anyone bought a set of Shars R8 collets like this? shars.com - High Precision R8 Round Collet 13 Piece Set

Sold as their "high precision" collets (.0005 @ 1' from spindle)

Not that impressive a spec. but aren't nearly as expensive as Lyndex or others.

Are they a decent collet?

mach2 · Dec 9, 2014

So 2" endmill will run out. 002". I bought a similar set years ago and when I finally got to using the half inch collet it cut with one flute. Took me a while to realize what I had. Take your money and buy just 2 or 3 quality name brand collets in the sizes you really need.

L Vanice · Dec 9, 2014

A 13 pc. set will include several sizes you will never use. Look at your end mills, or a catalog listing of standard sizes, and buy good collets that fit them. The 7/8 collet is a weak and bad design, larger than Bridgeport meant the R8 to hold. The 7/16, 9/16, 11/16 and 13/16 will probably never see use, though there likely are solid carbide end mills in those shank sizes.

I was new to mill tooling when I bought my R8 spindle mill. I included a 7/16 in the assortment of Buck brand collets I bought. It was about 35 years before I actually bought a 7/16 shank (carbide) end mill.

Larry

jmanatee · Dec 9, 2014

I have bought a couple shars products.... They are ok. All have worked as they were supposed to, fit and finish has been good.

As for the precision, .0005 at 1 foot would mean like .000125 at 3" from the collet that's aprox 1.2 ten thousands at the tip of an endmill. Probably as accurate as the spindle.

Buy them, test them and return them if they are not what they say they are.

BTW I wouldn't be surprised if some major brands are now made in China.

JMHO

L Vanice · Dec 9, 2014

jmanatee said:
...As for the precision, .0005 at 1 foot would mean like .000125 at 3" from the collet that's aprox 1.2 ten thousands at the tip of an endmill. ...

Shars claims .0005" at 1" not 1'. Big difference.

Larry

[486] · Dec 10, 2014

L Vanice said:
Shars claims .0005" at 1" not 1'. Big difference.

Easy mistake to make, reread the first post ITT

I've got the set by eighths, plenty of times I wish I'd have gotten the set of sixteenths.

Then again, I'm always bodging something together and homemade tools are whatever shank size is most convenient. Some lathe work is very suited to being done in the mill (when you haven't yet made a collet closer setup for your lathe), as well.

AdamC · Dec 10, 2014

D6c said:
Has anyone bought a set of Shars R8 collets like this? Are they a decent collet?

No personal experience with that particular collet. I had the cheaper set. And I have bought many items from Shars. Based on my experience, Chinese tooling is hit and miss. What I am now absolutely certain of is the specs and inspection sheets aren't worth the paper they are printed on. Those collets may be good to 5 tenths over an 1" or they could be nowhere near that.

I have a couple suggestions which I hope to be of use:
1) Inspect your machine- probe the taper directly and see where you are.
2) Check one of your collets with a dowel pin installed in it.

You may find cleaning your spindle and wiping down your collets will make a bigger improvement than an expensive collet would. Could also be the case that whatever you have been using is not .0005" and you are fine with that.

Otherwise, if you are the sort of person who:
a) can detect the difference between a good collet and a bad collet in your machining
b) can inspect a collet and evaluate it's role in your machine,

...you probably have no business shopping at Shars. I would have no hesitation about buying collet racks from Shars.

JRIowa · Dec 10, 2014

Shars is hobby shop quality, maybe.

I have 9, R-8 collets. 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4. That will cover 99.9% of what you'd need in a home shop.
Sorry Larry, I use the 7/16 quite a bit. #5 centerdrill.

BTW, the 0.0005" @ 1" from face is an ANSI/ASME standard for R-8 and is maximum. Hardinge, Lyndex, Collis, etc. usually spec 0.0002" guaranteed.
JR

D6c · Dec 10, 2014

Thanks for the replys. Figured they were just chinese quality but couldn't find any specs on any of the name brand collets.

FredC · Dec 10, 2014

I have converted both manual mills to Erickson 30 so I do not have any R8 collets any more. If Hardinge still makes the R8 the way they did 20 years ago it is worth it to buy at least one, maybe an 1/8 and try to figure out how they got all the chips out of there. (they were one pice with no threaded bushing)

jmanatee · Dec 10, 2014

L Vanice said:
Shars claims .0005" at 1" not 1'. Big difference.

Larry

Sorry I didn't check their site, I was going by what the op said in his post.

John Welden · Dec 10, 2014

Hardinge is the best by a mile.

D6c · Dec 10, 2014

jmanatee said:
Sorry I didn't check their site, I was going by what the op said in his post.

Checked my orig post....Had a typo..... ' instead of "

D6c · Dec 10, 2014

Ended up ordering a set of Lyndex (1/8-3/4 by 1/8's) and added 3/16, 5/16, & 7/16
Enco has a 15% promo so that helps.

Looked at Collis (since they're in Iowa) but couldn't find any online pricing.

I'd buy Hardinge if they weren't $43 a pop...out of my price range.

lr harner · Dec 10, 2014

good info i was lookig at a new set but with the info and thinking aboutj it a bit kind of make sense to get say the 4 most used ad have a cheaper "total" set

helmbelly · Mar 1, 2021

I used an old 3/8 and a 1/2 Neal Skokie for the first 6 months since I bought my mill they are flawless- then just cause they were so cheap I bought a set of sh@rs. First thing that happened was tools just fell out of them - had to be careful and keep a hand on them. Usually a collet will grip a tool enough to take your hand away.

second thing that sucked was my 3/4 shank Iscar face mill will only go in halfway. WHAT I said! Looked down the barrel of the collet and the thing was whacked- the threaded inserts are a 2 piece unit and it was jam pressed in their all off center, useless.

Hardinge are machined whole, not an assembly. I think I will get a 3/4 for my Iscar and add Hardinges as I can justify. here is a photo of the piece of junk in the background. I tool photo to show the finish from the Iscar - which I really like just wish the collet would seat it!

FredC · Mar 1, 2021

Not sure what price Hardinge charges now, if it is close to the $43.00 it was a few years ago ask yourselves if you could make them for that. Those one piece collets were superb. My mills are now all 30 taper.

I have one or two Neal Skokie collets for my South Bend 9c (3C) and they were decent quality.

ksimolo · Mar 2, 2021

I have some Hardinge and a set of Shars which come in handy when I need an "unusual" size. The Shars I have are of reasonable quality.

machinistrrt · Mar 6, 2021

John Welden said:
Hardinge is the best by a mile.

My experience is that Hardinge R8"s are "right"---the emill shank slips right in. Lyndex, seemed to close in a bit so you have to push the shank in, ran true though, you may like that kind of action; no experience with Royal.

Doozer · Mar 9, 2021

machinistrrt said:
My experience is that Hardinge R8"s are "right"---the emill shank slips right in. Lyndex, seemed to close in a bit so you have to push the shank in, ran true though, you may like that kind of action; no experience with Royal.

In my experience with brand new Lyndex collets,
every one of them was tight on the straight part
of the shank. Must make them to the max material
condition range of the tolerance. Too fiddly to
work with in my opinion. I gave them away and
now use cheap, no name collets that slip right in.

-Doozer

R8 Collet set for Bridgeport

Aluminum

Stainless

Diamond

Aluminum

Diamond

Hot Rolled

Cast Iron

Diamond

Aluminum

Diamond

Aluminum

Diamond

Aluminum

Aluminum

Aluminum

Aluminum

Diamond

Aluminum

Stainless

Titanium

Similar threads