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R8 Collets

Ranchman83

Aluminum
Joined
Dec 5, 2020
I ordered a new 3/4 collet for my Bridgeport. The center of the collet is smaller than my old one and my tools don’t seat deep enough. How do I verify ID dimensions when ordering so I can still use my double ended mills? Anyone else had this problem?


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Yes, R8 collets are crap. They clinch on only one end and often slip. I never use mine any more and now use ER collets because they are more concentric and grip the tool across its installed length. Additionally, they are available in both metric and imperial sizes. I have them in ER40 and ER32 sizes.
 
I get it, but the old one let them seat deeper.


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OK, then send it back as defective! Even if it was not the wrong size, it would still be crap. Another advantage the ER system has is depth. The BP collets limit end mill depth by the draw bar threads. The ER collets allow more depth.
 
Stick a carbide tipped bar in and bore it, up past the actual engagement length/area.

If you bore it on a lathe, the relief is not a precision tolerance, so holding the solid register end in a collet or dialing in on a 4 jaw chuck is close enough for axial alignment even if the project collet projects a bit.

If you bore it in the mill with the bar in a V-block in the vise, put aluminum shims, or short pieces of aluminum TIG rod in each slit so the collet can be closed up tight in the spindle taper to prevent rattle and chatter. (Obviously?) use sensitive manual feed, or power down to a stop. If the length of the bore needs increased, perhaps use a length of allthread & nut for the drawbar so as not to drill off the end of the original. You can decide later whether to reduce the originals length, or not.

There's nothing sacred about collets.

smt
 
Stick a carbide tipped bar in and bore it, up past the actual engagement length/area.

If you bore it on a lathe, the relief is not a precision tolerance, so holding the solid register end in a collet or dialing in on a 4 jaw chuck is close enough for axial alignment even if the project collet projects a bit.

If you bore it in the mill with the bar in a V-block in the vise, put aluminum shims, or short pieces of aluminum TIG rod in each slit so the collet can be closed up tight in the spindle taper to prevent rattle and chatter. (Obviously?) use sensitive manual feed, or power down to a stop. If the length of the bore needs increased, perhaps use a length of allthread & nut for the drawbar so as not to drill off the end of the original. You can decide later whether to reduce the originals length, or not.

There's nothing sacred about collets.

smt

Thank you.


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If we are allowed to vote on this I would send it back. What else did they screw up? If you bore it back will you have enough bearing surface? Shimming the slots while you are boring is not too hard. A fair amount of trouble for something that is some else's fault and they should stand behind it.
 
I ordered a new 3/4 collet for my Bridgeport. The center of the collet is smaller than my old one and my tools don’t seat deep enough. How do I verify ID dimensions when ordering so I can still use my double ended mills? Anyone else had this problem?


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.

a 3/4 R-8 shouldn't have a reduced diameter in it, should go 3/4 (+) up to the drawbar threads. what brand is it? sounds like junk.

most definitely do not wast any time f'in around with junk.
 
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a 3/4 R-8 shouldn't have a reduced diameter in it, should go 3/4 (+) up to the drawbar threads. what brand is it? sounds like junk.

most definitely do not wast any time f'in around with junk.
It's a HHIP from Amazon.

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If we are allowed to vote on this I would send it back. What else did they screw up? If you bore it back will you have enough bearing surface? Shimming the slots while you are boring is not too hard. A fair amount of trouble for something that is some else's fault and they should stand behind it.
Agree it should work out of the box... but the bearing surface is fine. It's the area between the bearing surface and the draw bar thread that is too small to seat a 3/4 tool deep enough.

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.

a 3/4 R-8 shouldn't have a reduced diameter in it, should go 3/4 (+) up to the drawbar threads. what brand is it? sounds like junk.

most definitely do not wast any time f'in around with junk.
What is a "better manufacturer" for R8 collets?




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What is a "better manufacturer" for R8 collets?




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You cannot go wrong with Hardinge collets and they are not too expensive (considering they are the best quality) on the popular types like 5C and R8. Note that R8 collets larger than 3/4" are marked "stepped" meaning not full size back into the collet body because the wall would be too thin. The 3/4" and smaller will be full size back to the threads.

https://shophardinge.com/productGrid.aspx?catID=11532

I bought my mill in 1974 and the dealer sold me a set of Buck brand R8 collets.. They are perfectly good collets, still in use, but probably no longer made by Buck, so probably not available now.

Larry
 
I have had a Lyndex set for 25 years, can’t go wrong


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Original nice quality Lyndex were made in Japan. Nice stampings on outer end for size/number.

I thought I read new Lyndex were from India, can't confirm myself. But I'd be curious to know.
 
Original nice quality Lyndex were made in Japan. Nice stampings on outer end for size/number.

I thought I read new Lyndex were from India, can't confirm myself. But I'd be curious to know.

I’ll let you know when it arrives.


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I don't always need more expensive stuff, depending what the goal or job is. Also my budget may play a part, whether I want the best, or something to get me through particular job.

But in general, if tools size/number is printed on with ink, or light etching its going to be cheaper. High chance Chinese or India made. Doesn't mean it won't work. Just my expectation is lower on quality of work or type of metals used. Example:

78.jpg 80.jpg

Original Lyndex:

79.jpg

Hardinge 5C:

77.jpg

When outfits took the time to stamp or deep etch, then generally quality of metals and workmanship are higher. Not just collets. Same for lathe tools, R8 adjustable head boring bar holders, on and on. Buying quality used may have its own issues if damaged or wore, but sorting through a lot of pics can help.
 
Original nice quality Lyndex were made in Japan. Nice stampings on outer end for size/number.

I thought I read new Lyndex were from India, can't confirm myself. But I'd be curious to know.
The collet arrived! Probably not the same quality as the Lyndex of yesteryear but I'm sure it will work for me. Apparently this one was made in India.
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