Series II 4 Hp Y saddle automatic feeding issue.
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  1. #1
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    Default Series II 4 Hp Y saddle automatic feeding issue.

    I have 2 problems. The first involves my own fault. While working on the quill power feed I neglected to put the y axis table feed in the off position. This resulted in the y axis jamming up against the column. The y power feed was on and working. I don't want to force anything here but I can't get it unstuck. Any ideas will be appreciated.
    This brings me to my second problem. The y axis saddle feed has been taken apart before I bought the mill. I believe that the individual didn't tighten setscrew number 14 down to prevent the saddle control shifter lever from getting out of synchronization. The shifter lever won't snap into the detents up and down to control the table movement. The mill had a screw stuck in a screw hole that held the lever into neutral. That fell out when I was working on the quill and thus the jambing occurred. All of this could have been prevented if the stops had worked but they don't either. Needless to say I have a lot of issues all located on the y axis. I would like to start with getting the y axis unstuck so If anyone has any ideas I would love to here them.

    Many thanks!
    Will

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    I got the first problem solved. I removed the bearing retainer and that took the pressure off the saddle and allowed me to move it off the column. Now I need to re synchronize the y axis drive with the saddle feed lever. Does anyone know how to do that?

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    I got it figured out.

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    Talk about self sufficient lol...tell us how you synchronized the feed!

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    I might have been a tad premature. I do have the feed control lever working with the detents engaging and holding everything in position. HOWEVER, when I went to button up the rest of the machine and get the adjustable dogs set I believe I have a slight problem. It looks to me like I have the feed set up 180 degrees off. When I lift the saddle control lever up the table moves out towards the operator. When I push the control lever down the table moves in toward the column. This is 180 degrees off of what the manual says I should expect. SO, I believe I have the detents set correctly and I will not be adjusting them. Instead I will start with removing the square piece of steel that houses the detents and a rack gear, that transfers the motion to the transmission. There is a pinion gear that runs on the rack and transmits motion into the transmission. I hope I can turn this 180 degrees and bring everything back into alignment. If not then I am afraid I will have to go into the transmission.
    Stay tuned. I will be taking a short 1 week break so it may be a bit before I post anything. Vacation is here. Woo Hoo!
    If anyone has any better ideas please let me know before I get knee deep in little parts.
    Thanks

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    This maybe not the issue you have but i have a Interact series 1.

    My power feed for my y was also off. like 45 degrees or more for my joystick.

    When i took off my joystick switch there where other places where the screws where able tighten and go. I ended up just rotating my joystick back to the proper configuration.

    My Y also randomly moved forward. This ended up being a crossed wire on the big barrel joystick switch.

    It maybe worth a look. But it maybe a complete waste of 15 mins of time. Yours sounds like it could be more then just the simple fix.. GOOD LUCK!

  7. #7
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    Okay I am back from Vacation and I knew it was time to go home when I figured out my mill feed problem. I had correctly synchronized the transmission so it worked. More on that in a bit. The direction issue turned out to be motor direction. I believe the transmission is a worm gear so no amount of tweaking will change anything. At that point I realized it had to be motor direction. The motor is a 90 V DC motor. It has 3 wires coming off it. One ground and two others. To change motor rotation just swap the two wires. I did that and the direction of my saddle movement started matching up with what the manual said I should expect. This also helped my X power feed. Originally It worked going one way but when you engaged it in the opposite direction the gear would pop out of drive and it would jump over the teeth. You had to manually hold it in. Once the motor direction was reversed this problem went away.
    To synchronize the transmission with the saddle control lever you first have to remove the long square piece of steel that has the rack gear in it that controls the transmission. This is a round rod with rack gears cut into it at the front and back. If you take about 6 screws off the back of this piece of steel the rack gear will be revealed. Along with the rack gear is a set of springs that hold the rack gear in the neutral position. Near the lever end of the rack gear is also a round piece of steel about 2 inches long with 2 grooves in them. The grooves are the detents. You need to adjust this piece of steel so the detents are engaged when the lever is moved up or down.
    Now on to the transmission. First off clean the top of the transmission off REALLY well. You should find a small hex set screw in the center of the casting. It will be about 1/8 inch diameter. Clean it up and we will talk about it in a bit. When you pull the square piece of steel housing the rack gear off you will find 2 pinion gears. The front one is an idler that runs on the rack and the back one actually goes into the transmission. With the mill OFF put your right hand on the back gear and move it clockwise and counter clockwise. While doing this use your left hand and turn the manual feed y axis hand wheel. Just take your time. As the saddle moves and you rotate your right hand you will feel the gear teeth meshing. The total range of motion is about 1/4 turn. Move the right gear to the center of its travel and then tighten that little hex set screw on the top of the transmission down. That will hold the rear gear in position. Now it is time to reinstall the square y axis rack steel housing. The back of the rack gear can be moved in and out. Adjust it so the rack will fit the idler. Then bolt everything back up. Now DON'T FORGET TO LOOSEN THE LITTLE HEX NUT. If you do you will probably screw up the shaft holding the gear. This would be bad.
    At this point you everything should be back in shape. Don't hesitate to things apart. The only place you need to be careful of is the setscrew on the rack gear that holds the detents in place. There is a spring under it with a little ball. If you remove that set screw things could pop out. It is located near the front of the y axis rack steel square piece. That should do it.
    Good luck.

  8. #8
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    If anyone was wondering how all this got screwed up we have a theory. I bought this from a friend who got it on an auction at a factory. When he originally tried to hook it up he noticed several things that weren't right. Little things that messed the mill up greatly. His supposition was that someone had sabotaged the mill so that when people went to look at it, at the auction, things wouldn't work and the sale price would be reduced. I tend to agree with his theory unless someone can come up with a better idea. I mean how the heck can a mill with a gear run power feed get this screwed up unless it was done intentionally.

    Cheers.


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