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Spindle Bearings on Feeler FTL-618E = Hardinge HVL-H

SC_Chip

Plastic
Joined
Jul 15, 2006
Location
West Coast
I think the spindle bearings are bad on the used Feeler FTL-618E that I just got. It makes an irregular short squeek every now and again. The headstock does not get hot?
Am I correct in that the bearing size/grade/preload for the feeler is the same as the Hardinge.

If so, what is the part number/brand that you like: Barden, *********, GMN, for Angular contact

Thhanks in advance

SC_Chip
 
Here's a link to the file that I think he is referring to:

http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/kC4STW...ySKhrMVowhg5yoJQ/Spindle Bearing Replacement


It is a very long link that gets shortened by the bbs software. I don't know if my link will work or not. The file that it points to is the pdf version of Gunner Asch's article on the old rec.crafts.metalworking group. It has been a while since I did that, but IIRC we had permission to keep this very important file "alive and well".
 
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I guess what I was really looking at was the size

I have looked at Gunners information and it is OK. I wish someone would update it with nice pictures.

On the bearing type/size:

I have looked at GNM and thing the correct code is S6011CTAABEC7UL

This means:
55mm ID
90mm OD
18mm thick
15 degree Angular Contact Code C
Resin cage Code TA
ABEC7 level of precision
Light Preload Code UL



OR



SKF

7011CD/P4ADGA

Serise 7011
ACD = 15 degree contact angle
P4 = ABEC7 tolerance class
A = light preload
DG = universal, could be < > or > <



Do I have the size and preload correct ??????
 
HLV bearings

Gunners write-up is spot on!
I suggest you read it several times and imagine performing the steps as you do. I did the bearings on mine and it cost just over $200. I got the bearings from Alpine Bearing in MA. They knew the correct ones. I got the gaskets from Hardinge.
I pulled the spindle one day and replaced it the next.
I put the spindle in the fridge and used a lightbulb to heat the bearings. This way it was easy to slip the new bearing on making sure the indexing was correct. That was the only tense moment knowing that if the bearing didn't slide right on it would get contract tightly to the spindle and I'd have to make a puller. Very important that you unwrap the bearings only when you are ready to install to keep them dirt free.
My spindle had a whistle noise at 3,000 RPM that became 2,500 RPM. Even though the machine ran perfect and I couldn't perceive anything moving the spindle by hand it corrected the problem. And the spindle was noticeably smoother after the job was done.
I took the opportunity to polish the non prcision exposed parts to make the lathe look new. I also painted the headstock while the spindle was out to make the lathe look new.
It's a fairly simple and straight forward job, just follow the instructions.

Good Luck,

Bill
 
I have looked at Gunners information and it is OK. I wish someone would update it with nice pictures.

That is my intent, but the pictures are on a hard drive in a computer that died, and I still haven't had time to recover them.

Do I have the size and preload correct ??????
Don't know about the size (for the Feeler), but the preload sounds right. Like Bill, I bought my bearings at Alpine. Great people to work with!

- Mike
 
They are good indeed...I use them for these old WWII bearing replacements in dynamotors and the like. So far they are batting 100%.

BTW, I received a PM from Bill Todd about the bearing replacement writeup I posted above, and he assumed that the two versions are the same - a logical conclusion since I started making modifications to it only after the first few paragraphs. They are not the same, and contain a number of expansions and clarifications that were peculiar to the HLV-H, and points that were prompted by some folks' criticism of the "in situ" method that Gunner provided. I corresponded with him to get it right, and he was happy with the result. Hopefully it is a reasonable addition to the literature for us home shop guys....

- Mike
 
I've mentioned the link in the group several times, Bill. The problem is that I do make changes of it from time to time, usually because I see an unclear sentence or two upon rereading it - and hope to have an opportunity this coming year to add the photos if I can get them off the hard drive, so there is a document control problem. It's okay when something is final and won't change, but most of my website is constantly in flux...:nutter:

Having said that, the document is free to anyone who wants it, and there is no restriction on doing so on my part. Gunner's original does focus more on the smaller Hardinge lathes, as I recall, so perhaps two sheets of music isn't a bad thing...

- Mike
 
Merry Christmas.

I could use a bit of help removing my HLV-H spindle from the headstock.
I read Gunners write-up several times, but there seems to be something missing or I am missing something.
I got the spindle nut broke loose but
it will not come over the flange of the spindle gear. So do I need to
drive out the spring pin, then pull the spindle gear off the shaft? The
flange will not allow the nut to come all the way off and also prevents the removal of the pulley.
Thanks for any help. H.H.
 
Merry Christmas.

I could use a bit of help removing my HLV-H spindle from the headstock.
I read Gunners write-up several times, but there seems to be something missing or I am missing something.
I got the spindle nut broke loose but
it will not come over the flange of the spindle gear. So do I need to
drive out the spring pin, then pull the spindle gear off the shaft?
The
flange will not allow the nut to come all the way off and also prevents the removal of the pulley.
Thanks for any help. H.H.

yes, you'll need to take the gear off, it was stuck on mine, had to use some gentle heat (hot air gun was enough) and wd40 to get it to move
 
Do you have the bearing part numbers?
If it’s anything like some the other stuff, original bearings and other things have been discontinued and replaced with different part numbers. Thanks
 








 
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