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Threading straight in with Hardinge design. No X micro-adjustment available.

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
Turn the compound 90 degrees so that the dial is facing you. Both cross feed dial is facing you too. The quick retract level will pull the threading tool
bit out of the cut at 90 degrees. Good for a full profile bit.

What about for a partial profile bit? When the trough of the thread needs to be made wider. What then? There is no more X adjustment, only Y.
 
I've heard from here and a master machinist that going straight in is ok. I want to try it. I've be doing 29.5 degrees for a long time.

The dial handles on mine will collide. But only one is necessary if the object is to go straight in. If a full profile bit then no problem.
 
Yes, you can still have the topslide offset to get the benefit of the quick retract and use the cross slide for the infeed.

Bit of a design 'feature' when the dials and handles do interfere, but by such a small amount. Maybe a George H. Thomas style offset cross slide dial would be appropriate...
 
Yes but the only different between flank feed and straight-in is the way you feed , so just feed with the cross-slide , you can leave the top-slide at 60' (30) and the retract will still clear the part .

The retract is moving across the flank (at an angle). Instead of retracting directly out of the groove. Didn't think of this probably due
to conditioning that the retract lever is to be worked with the dial that is behind it.

I did some threading before with some 304 SS probably from Vietnam. The surface was pitted and not smooth when done at 29.5 degrees.
Wonder if straight in would have been better.
 
Shite material? No certainty! Otherwise, stiffer is better.

Even so, how you grind your threading tool is 90% or better the determinant of the finish.

Inserted Carbides? Go figure there will be any FEWER than a dozen choices.
I am not he who has the least klew which one(s) are best nor for what material on which machine.

I ain't in any danger of running out of HSS-Cobalt nor Tantung-G, so I don't even have to care.

:)

PS: Retract only matters if you are trying to thread INTO an obstacle such as a shoulder or bottom of a blind hole.

That's foolhardy. Just don't

Instead.. thread AWAY from a(ny) such obstacle?

Go figure there is NO LONGER A NEED of a retract mechanism.

AT ALL.

Eliminating that also improves stiffness.

You want good results, you must apply good methods and tooling according.

Ya But

When I thread out and away, all the threads turn the wrong way.

Dear Abby said it would happen, but I didn't listen. What am I to do

signed

Twisted backwards in Kansas.
 








 
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