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RonZooks

Plastic
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Feb 1, 2021
Questions on how to Mill Angles and Radius

So, our only CNC programmer has recently been let go due to some covid related issues, which has left me unfortunately in charge of taking over. Training has been little to none, but I do have some basic experience with both the software and the 2 Haas VF4-SS and VF2 machines that we run. So far I've been able to do all that we've needed, but a new contract for a part has came in that involves some angled surfacing and radius pocketing that I haven't had to deal with yet, and cant seem to figure out. I could just draw the lines to represent the desired angle, but after creating the arcs for the radius, becomes separate pieces so I would have to some math far beyond what I'm sure is needed to get it right. Ive included what I made so far in the software and the drawing for the part. Any help to get started will be greatly appreciated.

The part being made is an entirely rubber piece. So what I'm trying to make is a Mold that the rubber will be pressed into.
 

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So, our only CNC programmer has recently been let go due to some covid related issues, which has left me unfortunately in charge of taking over. Training has been little to none, but I do have some basic experience with both the software and the 2 Haas VF4-SS and VF2 machines that we run. So far I've been able to do all that we've needed, but a new contract for a part has came in that involves some angled surfacing and radius pocketing that I haven't had to deal with yet, and cant seem to figure out. I could just draw the lines to represent the desired angle, but after creating the arcs for the radius, becomes separate pieces so I would have to some math far beyond what I'm sure is needed to get it right. Ive included what I made so far in the software and the drawing for the part. Any help to get started will be greatly appreciated.

You will get help here but your post title will have this post locked and deleted straight away. Go to "general", read the first post and then do a proper title and then ask your question.
 
Make your part, minus the angle. After the part is done, set the block in the vise at the angle you need, either using a sine bar or a test indicator (if you don't know what a sine bar is: How to Set a Sine Plate or Sine Bar - YouTube, and just mill the top surface until flat.

You can use a test indicator held in the spindle to do a rise over distance measurement to get the angle correct, you can construct the geometry in CAD and get the distance/rise if you don't want to do the math.

There are ways to create paths with a tool to cut the surface in one setup, but unless you rotate the block to the correct angle you will get cusps from the angling of the cutter relative to the surface.
 
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So, our only CNC programmer has recently been let go due to some covid related issues, which has left me unfortunately in charge of taking over. Training has been little to none, but I do have some basic experience with both the software and the 2 Haas VF4-SS and VF2 machines that we run. So far I've been able to do all that we've needed, but a new contract for a part has came in that involves some angled surfacing and radius pocketing that I haven't had to deal with yet, and cant seem to figure out. I could just draw the lines to represent the desired angle, but after creating the arcs for the radius, becomes separate pieces so I would have to some math far beyond what I'm sure is needed to get it right. Ive included what I made so far in the software and the drawing for the part. Any help to get started will be greatly appreciated.

Can you let us know what "the software" is, I can't download your zip folder at work here to see.
 
Make your part, minus the angle. After the part is done, set the block in the vise at the angle you need, either using a sine bar (if you don't know what that is: How to Set a Sine Plate or Sine Bar - YouTube, and just mill the top surface until flat.

You can also use a test indicator held in the spindle to do a rise over distance measurement to get the angle correct, you can construct the geometry in CAD and get the distance/rise if you don't want to do the math.

There are ways to create paths with a tool to cut the surface in one setup, but unless you rotate the block to the correct angle you will get cusps from the angling of the cutter relative to the surface.

Ball/bull endmill? Surfacing will leave some marks, but with a fine enough stepover they can be polished out well enough I would guess. Not sure what kind of surface finish you need though.
 
Nothing fancy about it, this part could be drawn and programmed in fusion in 5 minutes. Might take a little longer cycle time that blowing across it with a shell. But on low qty parts I always surface with CAM instead of a tilted setup.
 
Nothing fancy about it, this part could be drawn and programmed in fusion in 5 minutes. Might take a little longer cycle time that blowing across it with a shell. But on low qty parts I always surface with CAM instead of a tilted setup.

I once surfaced some largish chamfers years ago and my boss was all upset because I didn't make extra setups to end mill them, because it "would be faster". :rolleyes5: I was like, uh one setup vs 3 or 4..? Okkaaayyy.
 
Make your part, minus the angle. After the part is done, set the block in the vise at the angle you need, either using a sine bar (if you don't know what that is: How to Set a Sine Plate or Sine Bar - YouTube, and just mill the top surface until flat.
I could have read that all wrong but I believe he wants the cavity that will produce that male part ? And it will be rubber that is "pressed into" the mold ? I would think liquid rubber poured into the mold is more likely ?

If so, it needs to be a cavity with a slanted bottom and a cylinder in the middle. And maybe draft on the sides.

Different problem ?
 
I could have read that all wrong but I believe he wants the cavity that will produce that male part ? And it will be rubber that is "pressed into" the mold ? I would think liquid rubber poured into the mold is more likely ?

If so, it needs to be a cavity with a slanted bottom and a cylinder in the middle. And maybe draft on the sides.

Different problem ?

Nah. Can't make a mold for that without edm'ing a pocket to get sharp corners so still need to machine the angle. But I agree, it does seem he wants to make the female in some type of mold or cavity?
 
I could have read that all wrong but I believe he wants the cavity that will produce that male part ? And it will be rubber that is "pressed into" the mold ? I would think liquid rubber poured into the mold is more likely ?

If so, it needs to be a cavity with a slanted bottom and a cylinder in the middle. And maybe draft on the sides.

Different problem ?

Oopsy. That's what happens when you try to help someone early in the morning when you've been up all night.

I think your interpretation is correct, so it does sound like a sinker EDM part, at least for corner cleaning.

Or, be clever and make this from two pieces - a "frame" outer mold body, and an inside plug that you'd make essentially as I described*. Good precision would be needed to minimize gaps between frame and plug.

*High-five's self for save that retcon's original advice.
 
Nah. Can't make a mold for that without edm'ing a pocket to get sharp corners so still need to machine the angle. But I agree, it does seem he wants to make the female in some type of mold or cavity?

Yes,we produce our own rubber here at the factory, will be using NR 57 shore and right now just trying to create a single cavity test mold that will be ran in a press machine, so the angle will need to be milled in the bottom of the cavity for a flat plate to sandwich on top of the rubber. I can mill a flat cavity with the center pole no problem, also figured out how to do the corner fillets, I've just never done anything involving any slanting angles. Using a 1/4 gauge would work to create the angle on top, but i need that to be flat, otherwise i would still need to create a top plate with a milled slant in it.. Any of the 2 axis pocket options i try i have to specify an exact depth, which the max is -31.75. But the tool path doesn't follow the geometry i set which should at the opposite end level out at -25.4. Trying to do a 3axis path always gives me a "simulation object loading error: no operation is defined". Some videos I've watched on it already start out with the object created and then simply going through a 3axis tool path explanation which seems simple enough until i try and go do it myself.
 
Agree it should be Locked and a proper / searchable title made.
*could be a good thread with a proper title.
Start Over due.


making a mold for rubber.
rubber mold design.

Lock it.......click

Ops , Im not the moderator..darn

*New girlfriend Lost ..get over it
 
Lots of unknowns here: length of part run?, is this just for a prototype?, injection molding?

If it were for one part, it'd be easy enough to mill the cavity with a high wall all the way around, mold the part, take it out, slab off the part at the right angle...

Or if for more than a few, slope the top by shimming the appropriate edges, slab/flycut the top off, make a lid to fit.

I think we need more info:)
 
The cavity is just a pocket,but there is needs to be a proper parting line to create the angle.You might want to add a simple ejection system.
 
Not sure, if I understand correctly, but it sounds like you're trying to machine separate 2d geometry. Even though you SEE a continuous square on the screen, the software sees it as four, unconnected lines. Geometry needs to be chained into curves or used to create surfaces.

In BobCAD, if you <SHIFT><CLICK> a geometry element, BobCAD will try and find a continuous path.
 








 
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