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1953 Tray Top 12 1/2 x 30

restore49

Aluminum
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Location
Central Maine
Cincinnati Tray Top.jpgHi;
Need to make a 36 tooth gear in the change box - would like to know if 14 1/2 or 20 pressure angle or proprietary and can not be made ??? new cost $1279 per gear. Bobtraytop.jpg
 
Might get more response if you clarify SPEED change or feed/thread change

Spindle speed gears HAVE TO BE RIGHT - however much trouble or expense is involved. Not only the "making", but also the heat treat and finishing

If OEM drawings are unavailable to you, in order to make a gear you will need to have the gear in question reverse engineered by a party that knows everything there is to know about making such gears
 
Yes it is one of the speed change gears - my feed/ thread box is the same as in the photo. Just pulled the gear out of a friends identical machine tonight and need to figure out ---- find someone brighten than I am that would know the pressure angle ( if 141/2 or 20) so one can be made??? Cincinnati will NOT provide any information other than price Bob
 
From you post copied one profile on one side of paper the other on back side. Held up to light and can really see the difference . Will check against gear. Bob
 
A little more information.1953 Cincinnati Tray top - 36 tooth 1.725 OD - change gear. Thinking 22DP 14 1/2 degree. My try at clay. Will order cutter if sure the correct one. Bob


Tray top gear.jpg
 
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Update - made some progress with borrowed parts from another Cincinnati to duplicate. All new oval handles and the curved shift plate plus a new aluminum shifting Yoke. Now to make the 36 tooth gear. A good deal of time repairing a broken shift fork and damaged gear in the Gear Head. Gear only .1925 wide and running against hardened gears. Not running in a shop 24-7 what would be a usable material for the gear - cast iron - delrin - 4140 hardened - 4140 not hardened - aluminum . ??? This gear is easy to change so can check durability after a few uses. Bob

Tray Top gearbox.jpg
 
running against hardened gears. Not running in a shop 24-7 what would be a usable material for the gear...

If you have access to an experienced HT shop, 8620 might even be close to what was used, OEM, and the case-hardening doesn't need to be very deep to pay-off in running life extension.

If DIY, no HT? Bronze, rather, even where the OEM gear was not.

It marries-up well when run against hardened steel. So long as it's running mate is still smooth-surfaced, even if worn a bit from its original involute shape, Bronze - decently lubed - can extend the life of both players.

In their time-era, traytops were not exactly paragons of virtue in their gear department to begin with, so there is room for improvement if you must go to the effort.
 
DIY - Bronze - have in stock will give a try. Thanks

Fair 'nuf but "in stock" rather than purpose-ordered is I hope one of the right ones among the Bronzes.

There are rather a lot of them, some are far better than others for any of many given purposes, and a few aren't really Bronze at all, but Brass, rather. (C200, Tobin/Admiralty...)
 
Sir:
Since I only need 1 3/4 x 1/2 I can order - lathe will be with me for 20 years if I live that long. What grade Bronze should I order? I do have a large Manganese Bronze Prop I could cut it out of. . Thanks Bob
 
Sir:
Since I only need 1 3/4 x 1/2 I can order - lathe will be with me for 20 years if I live that long. What grade Bronze should I order . Thanks Bob

C86300 AKA SAE 430B Manganese Bronze is serious-good for gears. All you need is a "drop", and a small one at that. See if recycler // ebay seller Moses Glick has any. Otherwise Speedy, Online, or such by the inch.

I harbour several of the Aluminium or Nickel-Aluminium Bronzes, but use them sparingly. Strong, but rather abrasive, those are, and capable of destroying a mating part if shorted on good lube. Stay away from those, even if someone goes on about how strong they are, 'coz they are also a right b***h to machine.
 
Change Gear Shaft.jpg


New Cincinnati puzzle - Input shaft to Change gear Box. Noticed gear had a wobble and found this. Turned on Lathe till it feel apart. Still have original welders 3/16 center pin to work with. Shaft is soft gear hard 3/4"shaft was thinking finish taper on both halves set in centers in a jig and Mig weld (do not have tig)? Would appreciate input on procedure. Shaft not available and not trying to build new. Bob
 
Cincinnati in the old days use taper pins a lot. Roll pins too. They use double set screw to lock things in place. Not sure on the lathe side of manfacturing.
 
VFD Micro Switches

Removed the Gear for the Drum Switch and made up a bracket to mount switches without having to make any other changes to the 100Lbs. of original (working)controls mounted in the left leg. Nice to have the quick stop for the chuck with the VFD. Before and after pic. Bob


VFD micro Switches 2.jpgVFD Micro switches.jpg
 
When I have a shaft like yours I would in this case weld a larger od piece to the gear holding half.Simply because alignment would be taken when machining to size and that end is the easiest less complicated to machine.
 








 
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