What's new
What's new

2K frozen stuck overarms.

Miguels244

Diamond
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Location
Denver, CO USA
Am I missing something?
I have loosened the bolts on top.
I have removed the grub screws in the rear out board holes.
I have kroiled everything I can find.
Am I missing something or are they just frozen?
 
Time and pressure. I used a home made clamp with threaded rod and a few plates. John Oder uaed a swinging timber. Some folks used a Shot hammer or sledge. Just keep up the Kroil and some force.

 
Be sure that both clamps are loose, soak with penetrating oil poured into the holes after removing clamping blocks if you can get them out. You may have to make a press from channel iron with screws to press out the overarms.. I pressed the overarms out of my 2hl universal many years ago this way although I know your machine has much bigger overarms, it should work.. Make sure the overarm hand wheel is free to turn.. Ramsay 1:)
 
Thanks,
I wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing a clamp.
What actually locks them down in use?

On edit...
After seeing the video I see the locks.
Problem is the vertical head bracket ties into them so I have to pull 500 pounds of iron off just to get to them.
How does that work in practice?
Seems stupid to have to pull the bracket everytime you need to move the arms.
 
The overarms are locked in place by the two binder nuts on top. Normally there is no need to remove anything just loosen them. However since yours are stuck I think you should pull the locks out (the whole mess is probably full of rust) which of course means you will have pull the vertical head parking bracket. You also need to make sure the visible areas of the overarms are feel of any nicks, burrs or rust. Its going to take lots of Kroil etc and most importantly patience.
 
Already kroiling and stoning the arms.
I guess I’ll pull the parking bracket tonite.

What about clamping an arbor support on and using the spreading attachment on the porta power?
 
Another possible option, if you have a way to do it, it to try to rotate the bars. Once you get a little movement, either rotary or linear, I think the oil will work in and you'll be all set. If you have something you can clamp on to it, with out marring it too badly, and can get a long lever you might be able to break it free by turning/rotating it.

Ted
 
Another possible option, if you have a way to do it, it to try to rotate the bars. Once you get a little movement, either rotary or linear, I think the oil will work in and you'll be all set. If you have something you can clamp on to it, with out marring it too badly, and can get a long lever you might be able to break it free by turning/rotating it.

Ted

You could make a "wrench" for doing this however you would need to remove the pilot wheel and pinion gear that is used to push the overarms in and out. I made a similar tool for holding a lathe spindle by boring the exact diameter i needed in a block of aluminum and then I cross drilled to bolt it to a handle. I then split the diameter and used cap screws to bolt it to a handle. When you tightened the cap screws you clamp down. I'm not sure I would go to this effort. Even it the overarm could rotate I don't think it coming out with out a fight.
 
You could make a "wrench" for doing this however you would need to remove the pilot wheel and pinion gear that is used to push the overarms in and out. I made a similar tool for holding a lathe spindle by boring the exact diameter i needed in a block of aluminum and then I cross drilled to bolt it to a handle. I then split the diameter and used cap screws to bolt it to a handle. When you tightened the cap screws you clamp down. I'm not sure I would go to this effort. Even it the overarm could rotate I don't think it coming out with out a fight.
I don’t see how the pinion would come out without first removing the overarms.
It also wouldn’t surprise me one bit if there weren’t pins or some other feature to keep them from turning...

Oh, the ‘bay has a powered speed mill head for the 4.25 overarms.
No quill though.
 
My 2K overarms were stuck just as bad. I finally got pissed, and with a timber in place to prevent damage, and a liberal soaking of Kroil, I just (literally) whacked the piss out of it with a sledge. As I recall, it took a few days of this to finally break them free. I removed them completely, and it was totally gunked up inside. I cleaned it all up, and applied a liberal coating of oil. They move free as a bird now.
 








 
Back
Top