American Pacemaker 16x30 - First lathe - Page 3
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    Also found a place in Lansing that rents drop deck trailers:
    Rent Utility Trailers | Construction Trailer Rental | MacAllister Rentals

    With something like that, i could drop right into the shop. Might be worth saving the cash on the unload side. I have 2 pallet jacks that could be used to move this. Is the lathe possible to get moving off the trailer without jacks?

    Edit: Holy smokes, i just checked prices for drop deck rental, i can rent a 10K dual axle drop deck and drop it right into my shop for $100/weekend. Two pallet jacks can get it off right? I am not seeing a downside here.

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    Two pallet jacks can get it off right? I am not seeing a downside here.[/QUOTE]

    I used two 5000 lb. pallet jacks to move mine into final position - only about 3 feet over a smooth concrete floor. It did not work well. The lathe was very unstable. I ending up just slightly lifting with the pallet jacks, still some drag, and shoved the lathe with a small tractor using some wood blocking. If I were doing it again, would use skates or maybe pipe rollers. However, given that your lathe is more compact and weighs ever so slightly less, the pallet jacks may work better for you than mine did.

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    One thing i have done in past, is get one end of something heavy off on the ground and then pull the trailer out from under the rest of it. Maybe something like that is an option. I am thinking with maybe some outriggers to stabilize the lathe, it might work better. I'll need to make a big pallet essentially.

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    It's a done deal. I have rented a tandem axle, 10,000 lb rated drop deck trailer. About a 100 for the weekend. Moves the sketchy part of the move over to getting the lathe back off the trailer rather than the 100 mile ride. I'm quite a bit more relieved. So much for driving to my buddy's to get his trailer...

    but if it saves me 300 at my end for the lift INTO the shop, i'll be a happy camper. The hardest part of the move will be getting up the slope into my shop. My dually has positraction, but not sure how well it will move 5500 lbs up a slope sitting on dirt. I guess i can always push or pull with the tractor.

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    Take plenty of com-alongs, chains, ratcheting straps. Extra help if you can talk them into it(preferably knowledgeable). Even on wheels, rollers, etc. it's hard to move or budge. Flip side once it starts on a slope it can get out of hand. Be sure and have a strap or chain to stop movement before it gets away from you. If it does, let it go, don't get in the way or trapped.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 86turbodsl View Post
    I'm still thinking of biasing the lathe forward a bit to get more into the channel area. Adds tongue weight, but who cares. That dually won't even feel it.

    EDIT:
    [
    That much weight, not balanced over the "sweet spot" makes for a rough ride. Too much weight forward will make the trailer jerk..........too much toward the back will make it sway. With some experience, you can tell by how the loaded trailer looks, whether it will be a problem. Empty trailer should have tongue headed uphill, loaded, about level.............tongue headed downhill will feel like you are on a bronc.
    Been there and done that.

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  8. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by rj1939 View Post
    That much weight, not balanced over the "sweet spot" makes for a rough ride. Too much weight forward will make the trailer jerk..........too much toward the back will make it sway. With some experience, you can tell by how the loaded trailer looks, whether it will be a problem. Empty trailer should have tongue headed uphill, loaded, about level.............tongue headed downhill will feel like you are on a bronc.
    Been there and done that.
    Shouldn't be a problem with the new trailer. Truck is a crew dually, LOOOOONG wheelbase. Won't tow as nice as my gooseneck, but it'll be alright. I hauled a similar load back from Pennsylvania once. 6000lb detroit diesel on a skid. That tow showed me and my wife how underpowered my old 6.9 was. That was how i got big red, my 97 Powerstroke.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hodge View Post
    Take plenty of com-alongs, chains, ratcheting straps. Extra help if you can talk them into it(preferably knowledgeable). Even on wheels, rollers, etc. it's hard to move or budge. Flip side once it starts on a slope it can get out of hand. Be sure and have a strap or chain to stop movement before it gets away from you. If it does, let it go, don't get in the way or trapped.
    We're still hoisting on the other end. I don't have to do any of that until i get home.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 86turbodsl View Post
    I'm sure the trailer is going to be pretty fully loaded. Unfortunately if i don't use it, i don't know what else i could use. 100 miles on anything else is going to be very expensive and then i can't let the lathe sit until i get a lift at my place arranged. The whole reason for borrowing the trailer was to take the pressure off 1 day coordinated moves on both ends.

    I did find this trailer locally:

    DUMP TRAILER 14 FOOT Rentals Jackson MI, Where to Rent DUMP TRAILER 14 FOOT in Jackson Michigan, Jonesville MI, Ann Arbor MI, Lansing, Battle Creek MI

    9000lb, and tilt back. $100/day.
    Sunbelt rents a very nice drop deck (the deck literally sets flat on the ground) trailer with IIRC 9000lb capacity.

    My suggestion is to just call a rollback wrecker, I've moved many long skinny machines with them. They are cheap, fast and super safe. Makes moving any machine under 24,000lbs or so a breeze.

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    Check later in the thread. I rented a drop deck 10K trailer.

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    These fat squatty things are a bit tricky to move sometimes. The base is very narrow and there's a whole bunch of weight on one end.

    Just think about what you are doing and don't face plant the thing.

    I would not get anywhere near it with a standard pallet jack or a cherry picker.

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    Quote Originally Posted by alskdjfhg View Post
    Sunbelt rents a very nice drop deck (the deck literally sets flat on the ground) trailer with IIRC 9000lb capacity.

    My suggestion is to just call a rollback wrecker, I've moved many long skinny machines with them. They are cheap, fast and super safe. Makes moving any machine under 24,000lbs or so a breeze.
    I get a returning customer / Senior Citizen / Veteran "whatever" discount from one of our local recovery outfits with a mini-FLEET of many rollbacks.

    Even so? Figure no less than $50 call-out, plus ten bucks a mile. For 100 miles out and back?
    I can rent me own stake-body truck instead. Then I rent an appropriate FL or a boom-wrecker for load and unload.

    The drop-deck trailer is far less expensive, needs less to load or unload.

    So long as.. one has an appropriate tow-vehicle, it's just right for a 100 to 500 mile go-fetch.

    More than 500 M, each way? I'm partial to one-way-drop 26-foot Penske's for their easy-driving, adjustable air-ride, and BRIGHT big-yellow "f**k-with-me NOT!" .. shall we say "presence" vs a trailer in-tow and the endless supply of idjuts who carelessly complicate your safety envelope.

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    New class 5 hitch on truck, picked up 5 ft of 1.5in bar for the spindle, two 16k round slings, two pallet jacks, 4 10k ratchet straps. Wood blocking. Drill and bits. Lags. Am I missing anything?

    Sent from my LG-TP450 using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by 86turbodsl View Post
    New class 5 hitch on truck, picked up 5 ft of 1.5in bar for the spindle, two 16k round slings, two pallet jacks, 4 10k ratchet straps. Wood blocking. Drill and bits. Lags. Am I missing anything?

    Sent from my LG-TP450 using Tapatalk
    WTF are you going to do with those pallet jacks?

    A pallet jack is like 5000 lbs or less evenly distributed. It's just formed sheet metal. You put that under a machine and you're going to tip it over.

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    I'm building a pallet right under the lathe. 4x4 and 4x6. The pallet jacks are lifting those, one on each end. Just like a regular palleted load. Pallet jacks are both rated 5500 lbs and both in good shape. Crown, not Horror freight stuff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 86turbodsl View Post
    New class 5 hitch on truck, picked up 5 ft of 1.5in bar for the spindle, two 16k round slings, two pallet jacks, 4 10k ratchet straps. Wood blocking. Drill and bits. Lags. Am I missing anything?

    Sent from my LG-TP450 using Tapatalk
    Minor point, perhaps.

    What with the generally abysmal quality of present-day timber, "farmed" rapid growth (note the size of the growth rings) plus poor drying? Most of it splits too often and too easily from the stress of a lag screw under load. Much of it is ALREADY splitting, even.

    I try to avoid lag screws and use through "carriage" bolts instead. Not as if it took any real time to run an Irwin speed-bor though the weak-ass crap to make the hole, even with a lowly M12 cordless. Annnnnd... the bolts, "fender" washers, washers, lock washers, nuts are all re-usable, next project, whereas lag screws tend to hold failure surprises if recycled at all.

    Mind the rating on your ratchet straps. Read the fine print.

    More than a few lads have been surprised to discover "the hard way" that 10K was for the cumulative load, an entire SET of four or more!


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    I've got 4 total 10K straps, and a bunch of smaller ones. 2 big chains and load binders. Nowhere near the ways. The way i have designed the pallets, i think the lags just hold the runners up while moving. no real stress on em. Biggest thing i have a question on is the bar in the spindle, pulling up on the end away from the chuck. Lots of leverage there. I know it's not the whole lathe, but it still makes me pucker. I don't know how beefy the spindle is on these. I know that i don't want to replace one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 86turbodsl View Post
    I've got 4 total 10K straps, and a bunch of smaller ones. 2 big chains and load binders. Nowhere near the ways. The way i have designed the pallets, i think the lags just hold the runners up while moving. no real stress on em. Biggest thing i have a question on is the bar in the spindle, pulling up on the end away from the chuck. Lots of leverage there. I know it's not the whole lathe, but it still makes me pucker. I don't know how beefy the spindle is on these. I know that i don't want to replace one.
    I "suppose" you could Brinell a bearing race, you have a crane and cable could even STAND giving it a ten-foot free-fall drop, then bouncing it like a yo-yo. Rod would fail in bending first. Then the HS to bed attach goods if it had not done.

    It will stand waaay more stress than even a less than 100% perfect lift with the odd shimmy or three.

    Just don't doo anything that drastic, and you'll be fine!


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    I would bring about a come a long if you have one. 2 uses: one is to level load if needed when picking upi machine. second is to slide machine forward or back on trailer if it tows bad. Otherwise it sounds like you are set

    Dont worry about the spindle, those bearings are rated for some crazy high load due to the size of them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob F. View Post
    I would bring about a come a long if you have one. 2 uses: one is to level load if needed when picking upi machine. second is to slide machine forward or back on trailer if it tows bad. Otherwise it sounds like you are set

    Dont worry about the spindle, those bearings are rated for some crazy high load due to the size of them.
    Agreed, Even a HF "strap winch" - part of my standard kit.

    Along with the OTHER "should have". Typically a wedge, some thin steel shims as well as thicker wood, and three pry-bars, small, medium, large. Even the thinnest of toe-jacks need space to get aholt.

    Several skates and a pair of compact 5 Ton dual-use toe or top jacks? Well.. only because I HAVE them.



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