American Pacemaker 16x30 - First lathe - Page 7
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  1. #121
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    Lol you stole that machine out from under me. The dude was supposed to let me know if he got a better offer but I woke up the next morning and it was marked sold. He was in fort wayne Indiana and said a guy from Michigan came down and looked it over and took it.

  2. #122
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    Whoops, sorry dude! It's turning out to be a good one. Finally got the carriage freed up tonight. It wasn't the half nuts, it was the carriage glued to the ways by rust. I loosened the gibs and just kept working it back and forth and it finally started loosening up. Ways need a lot of polishing.

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  4. #123
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    Yea I knew that thing was gonna be a good machine with a little work. I'm just glad you didn't scrap the thing. I got me a nice alternative I'm very happy with so worked out for both of us.

    Sent from my G8142 using Tapatalk

  5. #124
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    Good on you. Scrap it? Horrors! Do not speak of such things in my earshot! I don't think i've ever scrapped a machine. Don't intend to either. They must all be preserved for future use.

  6. #125
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    Hi guys
    Here’s a picture of my pacemaker 18x54 1942.its for sale.
    Collector
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 9c41dc69-e606-42ec-94a9-03f2be3848fe.jpg  

  7. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by collector View Post
    Hi guys
    Here’s a picture of my pacemaker 18x54 1942.its for sale.
    Collector

    Collector, That's a nice lathe, but WAAAAAY out of my price range. Good luck with your sale.

  8. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by collector View Post
    Hi guys
    Here’s a picture of my pacemaker 18x54 1942.its for sale.
    Collector
    nice lathe. looks a lot like mine. about the same color and it looks like it has the lead screw reverse as well as the collet holder on the tail side. does yours have a 2 speed motor? whats the top speed. i have never seen another that had those options or the collet holder.

  9. #128
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    I got my L1 spanner wrench and the nut just won't move. I've hosed it down for weeks with penetrant. Haven't tried heat yet, Are there seals i need to be wary of?

    I was planning to load the wrench up with an engine hoist and cheater bar and let it sit under load over night. I've had success with that in the past. I'm not to the point of using chisels and whatnot. I do not want to damage the nut due to the difficulty in replacing it.

  10. #129
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    Suggestion. Put wrench on back so its end goes down to loosen

    Put blocking under one jaw down to rear way - protect way (I am assuming you have a chuck on there)

    With a 10 LB sledge, strike the end of the spanner

    Don't go crazy and have the wrench fall off on your foot - just that one, solid, abrupt shock

    See if that does you any good. At least with the blocking, you are not hoping the head stock gearing (which has various amounts of bounce built in) is going to help you out

  11. #130
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    If you have to use a chisel and hammer to break it loose. Get you a piece of 1" OD cold roll mild steel bar and a two pound hammer. Work around the nut until it breaks loose. Don't stay in one place, keep moving around the nut. I've had a couple over the years that were that tight! No reason for it. Always wipe down the tapered surfaces with an oily rag, but wipe clean of visible oil. Likewise, a couple of drops of oil on the external thread of the chuck or whatever you are mounting. Also make sure your hitting the nut from the right direction. Hitting the nut away from you on top would be right. The nut is always right handed thread. Ken

  12. #131
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    I am working on a rusty mill, I first soaked this dividing head with PB Blaster, and it works pretty good. Some of the parts that were still stuck, I heated those with a propane torch until Bees Wax would freely melt into the joint. If its really stuck and need to heat it, try Bees Wax.


    I have got everything off except the chuck, I am going to try a few more heat/cool cycles, if no luck, I am going to have to plunge into the chuck body with a cutoff wheel six places, to cut through the screws that are on the back side of the chuck, to remove the chucks front half and scroll. Then work two cuts up to the threaded spindle, then split the back half of the chuck with a chisel, I hope not, but that's the deal the chuck is coming off.

  13. #132
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    Ok, i got the chuck off. Secret was heating the nut, and then it rolled right off. The chuck popped off with a bang actually, after the nut bottomed against the lathe. There is some rust on the threads. Nothing i can't clean off. Getting it bright might need some naval jelly. At least i can get the chuck soaking now. It's freed up, but i want to soak it in evaporust. thanks for the help! Everything on the lathe is freed up now.

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  15. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by donie View Post
    I am working on a rusty mill, I first soaked this dividing head with PB Blaster, and it works pretty good. Some of the parts that were still stuck, I heated those with a propane torch until Bees Wax would freely melt into the joint. If its really stuck and need to heat it, try Bees Wax.


    I have got everything off except the chuck, I am going to try a few more heat/cool cycles, if no luck, I am going to have to plunge into the chuck body with a cutoff wheel six places, to cut through the screws that are on the back side of the chuck, to remove the chucks front half and scroll. Then work two cuts up to the threaded spindle, then split the back half of the chuck with a chisel, I hope not, but that's the deal the chuck is coming off.
    One of my chucks looked like that one. I just kept at it with PB and it freed up. Be a shame to cut that chuck up. Also, try dunking the whole chuck in ATF. That stuff penetrates great.

  16. #134
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    I have got the jaws to move a little!
    The formula that has been around is acetone and atf mix, and I will take your advice and soak in a sawed off bucket.
    The rusty machine will be delivered soon, I went to the yard, sprayed a can of PB Blaster on it, and wrapped it up.

  17. #135
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    Mind bogglingly, i did some more investigation on the 3 jaw chuck tonight. I finally figured out what happened. Somebody milled the threads off. What a waste. Probably wanted to set it on the bridgeport and didn't know what the hell 123 blocks were. Guess i will need to make a backplate for it. I used the impact screwdriver and yanked all the bolts on the backplate, but haven't been able to separate it yet. I'll keep on it.

  18. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by donie View Post
    I have got the jaws to move a little!
    The formula that has been around is acetone and atf mix, and I will take your advice and soak in a sawed off bucket.
    The rusty machine will be delivered soon, I went to the yard, sprayed a can of PB Blaster on it, and wrapped it up.
    Have you got pics of your prize and when will it be delivered?

  19. #137
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    This looks a little worse then your lathe, but you have the harder job, lathes are more complex. My brother has a couple of American lathes, with the same spindle nose, there seems to be more good used chucks with that nose then others.

    I decided to go ahead ad cut the chuck off the diving heads spindle, I don't want to stress the head any further, I can see someone has tried to get it off before. I have a Buck 6" set true to put on there. The chuck that is on there was a nice Cushman made for the application.

  20. #138
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    Soaking it didn't do anything huh? Did the Brown and Sharps come with the parking attachment like the K/Ts did? Never laid eyes on a B/S before.

  21. #139
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    Be careful using heat on parts that have been soaked with penetrating oils- some are VERY dangerous- the off-gas will hurt you bad. I used heat on a part soaked with Kroil and the resulting whiff of white smoke took my breath away for days. Same thing with some brake cleaners.


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