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  1. #41
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    I am the OP. I just bought my Third 1-22 Gorton...

    My first gorton was a 40's 9-J. I should have never got rid of that one. it had one hell of a drive on the knee. But I sold it to make room for My 1970 1-22 TraceMaster. That cost the Army $20,000 Plus back on 1970- I paid $712 plus gas and a rental to go get it...

    My 2nd 1-22 is an odd bird. It has the True-Trace 3-D Head and hydraulics like the Bonafide TraceMaster, but it doesnt have ANY manual controls. all of the lead screws and cranks were gutted and full hydraulic movement via Cylinders were retrofitted to the table. Its a slick setup, and is theoretically more accurate than the manual/hydraulic version, but theres no manual control, so it sucks as an all around mill.This one cost $300 locally

    My newest 1-22 was another ebay find... they all were. It is full manual, except for the non-functional Dyna-drive, which has a controll block of some type missing from the elect enclosure. I bought it because I have a few rotary tables, and this mill had the rare riser block which gives me about 8 more inches of table height. It also had 32 Universall ZZ collets. This mill was $545 plus $300 in gas

    I have been snatching up the Gorton Quick-change collet holders whenever I see them. All three mills have it and I have about 70 collets so far

  2. #42
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    Default Gorton publication treasure trove

    I ran across this site when researching a Mastermil that I wound up not buying. As I read through this thread I didn't see anybody mentioning it so I thought I would pass it along. It's copyrighted way down at the bottom by Richard Gorton, so you guys could probably make his day by accessing the old literature to help keep his family's old iron alive and running! Check it out:

    George Gorton Machine models

    So much classic iron, so little garage space...

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by revolute72 View Post
    I ran across this site when researching a Mastermil that I wound up not buying.
    So much classic iron, so little garage space...
    This site has been mentioned many times in the past. Thanks for mentioning it again.

    We neen more family members of other machiner builders to come out of the wood work and post items of interests of what their ancestors created in the past.

    This is one of the few that has!

    Ken

  4. #44
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    I used to run - I think - model 2-30 mills as well as a pantograph as an apprentice at NASA Ames. They suddenly disappeared. They were stout. I hope they found their way to good homes.

    This was in the early 80's.

  5. #45
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    I just picked up a Gorton Mastermill 1-22S from a business down the street that really just needed it out of a space they had been renting.

    Thank goodness I bought a forklift this summer, otherwise I don't know how I would have gotten it here

    I still need to hook up the phase converter and get it under power but it looks to be a really nice machine. I take it there's no reason to try to change the spindle from the #30/#40 N.S. since I already have a set of collets. I will be looking for some sort of flycutter for surfacing cylinder heads, and a boring bar setup so any recommendations would be welcome.

    Looking forward to being able to experiment more this winter (I build racing go-kart engines).

    Thanks,

    John Matthews

  6. #46
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    Ok,

    I have it under power now but I think it might need 440v and my phase converter only goes to 240v. Does anyone know what it would take to convert it over?

    Thanks,

    John

  7. #47
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    Alright,

    Maybe it's a bad contactor. After looking at the control box it seems the big transformer is hooked up for 230v. I wiggled things around in there and I now get a clicking contactor, like it's trying to start the motor, some cool sparks too.

    But, it won't start the motor. I'm tempted to try and hold the contactor closed and see what happens but I don't want to burn anything up.

    Does anyone have a source for the alan/bradley contactors in this thing, or do you just retrofit new ones?

    TIA,

    John

  8. #48
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    Definitely a bad contactor, machine runs fine when you manually engage the contactor. Can't wait to get it fixed and start making chips....

    John

  9. #49
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    Default allow myself to introduce myself

    Greetings Fans,

    I just acquired a Gorton 2-30 Trace-Master.
    It is built like a brick sh$thouse.

    For lack of a better term - it has a 2ft slide bed that the spindle head mounts to - so the head could slide port or starboard about 2ft.
    I was t originally a 2 head hydraulic tracer mill.
    I have the second spindle head which is identical to the one mounted, they are both variable speed clutching, with 3hp 3phase.
    12x54 table w/ 12x36 travel, MNBT or Cat40 taper.

    The original electrics have been stripped, along with most of the hydraulic system, all that remains is within the knee - the reservoir tank seems to be part of the knee and the hydraulic cylinder to raise it.

    It did come with some partially completed adapter plates and new step motors.

    The handwheels have a thumb screw release, so they do not turn while in auto feed - but the mechanisms need help as they do not hold properly.
    I found and downloaded the user manual for it from the Gorton site.
    The gordon site also had a tech manual for the Auto-Tracer model but not quite the detail for complete service.

    My goal it to convert it to CNC......but to some extent, I feel like I am modernizing a CMP M1 Garand
    Last edited by jammer; 11-01-2011 at 04:00 AM. Reason: wrong model

  10. #50
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    Talking 9j taper

    Mine had a # 11 B&S in my 1947 9j. The 2- speed motor was nice, as well as the fine feed on the table elevator. Got the collet adapter stuck in the spindle taper 30 yrs. ago;ex partner prob. still has it & I bet it's still stuck.(we tried everything)

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
    Mine had a # 11 B&S in my 1947 9j. ...... Got the collet adapter stuck in the spindle taper 30 yrs. ago;ex partner prob. still has it & I bet it's still stuck.(we tried everything)
    Never heard of a 9J having a 11 B & S taper. All the one's I've been around had #10 B & S taper.

    Getting the collet adapter out??? Run the spindle in the highest rpm for about 10-20 minutes to get it warmed up to where you almost can't touch it. Be sure the oiler is dripping oil. block the spindle Quill so the impact doesn't shear the gear teeth off the pinion. Loosen the draw bar and put it in a bind against the backup nut, then whack the end of the draw bar with a five pound sledge a couple of times. This should knock it loose. It's not good on the class 7 spindle bearings, but the only way i know to get it loose.

    What causes this is when a "cold"arbor is inserted into the a "hot" spindle and tighten. Later both the spindle and arbor cool, they are literally a "shrink fit" to each other.

    I always snugged the draw bar with a 6" crescent wrench whether its hot or cold!

    Ken

  12. #52
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    Default Maybe it was...

    The Cinnci # 3 that had the 11---but that's going back even further (early 70's). Maybe your tip will help someone; I no longer have anything with a B&S taper. Wait, maybe that little Diamond mill....7?? (it's not running). So many machines, so little time

  13. #53
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    Early Gorton vertical mill for sale in Detroit:

    ***GORTON MILLING MACHINE

    The picture in the ad is obviously not of the Gorton. Nor is the Gorton currently under power. Nor is it in what I would describe as in "good condition" as mentioned in the ad. But it might be a good candidate for restoration by a dedicated Gorton fan so I grabbed some pics:





    The lower feet are adapted from a Reed Prentice lathe to raise the machine. The motor is 3/4hp 3-phase. It has a set of collets, but they are rusty. The spindle turns and the quil moves smoothly without grinding sounds. The table movements all work. It has a ram but the head is fixed vertically. That's about all I can say, except that it will probably end up as scrap in the near future. I'll bet that it could be bought for half or less of the asking price, just not by me.

    Bob

  14. #54
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    Default Gorton fan here

    Gorton model 3-34 serial 33517.
    It great for hoging and is still acurate.It saves my prototrak from to much abuse.
    img_4018.jpg

  15. #55
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    Default

    Hey there guys... I am new to owning a Gorton Mill. I have a 1-22 Mastermil, and I have no clue which of the many different spindle tapers this machine has. It has what appears to be some sort of quick change collet adapter on it right now. I tried to loosen the draw bar with no luck at all. I would imagine it has standard threads on it like a bridgeport ? There is a lose spot on it where I can move the draw back screw back and forth a little bit, maybe a half turn, but it immediately gets tight trying to turn it either direction. Since I have only ever used an R8 or a cat30 or 40 mill, I haven't a clue in the world what this machine is. Can someone please help me figure this out ?

    First, how do I loosen the draw bar ? Which direction is loose ?
    Second, which taper is it ? I can send a picture of what appears to be a collet adapter in the spindle now. There is a collar that is threads on to the collet adapter.. Here are pictures of the adapter and the collar. If someone can help me out I would appreciate it very much.

    Thanks, Geoff




  16. #56
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    b&s 9 to Gorton's quick change. std rt hand thread......if you dont lightly lube those tapers they stick tight. block the spindle so the shock does not run through the bearings. back the drawbar out. The self ejector likely wont have enough push......it's going to need help from a 2 lb hard hammer..........hence the blocking. No smacking without the blocking if you have any respect for the spindle bearings.

  17. #57
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    1965 2-28. Spent the last 6 months going through the whole machine.
    New x and y shaft bearings. New v-belt pulley bearings at the top of the spindle.
    Replaced the burnt out down feed motor with one I found on eBay.
    New Bijur units and lines.
    Cleaned 50 years of gunk off of it and ended up with tendinitis in my right elbow.
    Nice heavy duty mill if you don't need the head to tilt or nod. Who does that anyway.dscn1225.jpgdscn1226.jpgdscn1199.jpgdscn1211.jpgdscn1198.jpg

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  19. #58
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    Wanted to add...
    My model 9-J pictured in an earlier post
    has the #11 B&S (I think) and I made a sleeve
    to bring it down to R-8 taper. It is a lathe
    job, not hard or ground, but runout is under
    .001" and it works well for me. The adapter
    sits flush with the bottom of the spindle,
    and you would never know it is the if not for
    looking real close. No collet key, but who cares.

    --Doozer


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