Bringing a Taft Peirce 1 Grinder back to life

In the next few weeks I will be bringing a “barn find” Taft Peirce 1 home. It was retired by Parker Hannifan several years ago and followed an engineer home and has sat in his unconditioned barn ever since.

I’m hoping for a fun project as it seems complete other than a missing cover for the wheel. What should I be paying attention to or watching out for as I clean it up and try to bring it back to life?

A spindle not running for a time should have a high number of hand spins before fire-up to half speed..
The first fire-up should be jog starts to about half speed a number of times ..then you are Ok to run..

Still, it is good to half-speed jog, let run down, and then fire up. this takes a few seconds and can save a spindle rebuild.

A spindle that feels gritty likely is a needs-work spindle.

Smooth hand turning does not guarantee it is a good spindle, the sound, and the grind prove that.

A smooth whine spindle that grinds good might whine like that for years.

Can email the manual / parts pubs if you want to Private Message me that address

Just for my inquisitiveness please report how clean you for the ball way area.

Yes, only if you remove the table and balls.

New to grinders guys think they need to grind the chuck right off the bat, don't do that.

The side of the cuck nearest to you is likely dead on so use that if needing a close job.

*One needs to really study grinding a chuck before attempting that task.
wheels ..a 46k x 1/2"- a 46k x 3/4 recess - a 60 or 80 l x 1/2 for an inside corner,

It is darn near impossible to make a dead sharp inside shoulder corner with a surface grinder.

Accessories:
Angle plate with having a screw hole, a bar the can go on your angle plate, a v block with a clamp - a dressing bar that can set on your chuck or slide on your angle plate bar- set of bargain brand 123 blocks - some c clamps 2 4 and 6" - a hand bottle of coolant - a small v notch surface gauge nd a tenth indicator.

Learn to dress a 45* wheel and then you can make a super nice bevel to all your flat work.

The first task make a part dead on target size(to 6 to 12 millionths). Next, a dead square block to the ability of your indicator to no detectable error...if you resort to lap or hone last .0001/.0002 that is OK. (you might gun blue the part to know where you are.)