Cincinnati 207MK

Guy's,

been offered a 207MK with with two arbours including support. A vertical head plus face mill and collet holders for $1000. Down side is the machine has been outside in the bone yard for 2 years its has some surface rust and paint peeling. Ive checked the x axis screw and it looks good. The Y axis gib is rusty. Im only paying scrap value, but what do people think is it going to be a nightmare to tare down and rebuild?

Thanks,

Ian.

The rust cleans off the cast iron with some work. The steel like the screws can get pitted and damaged. You said the screws are good. There is usually enough machine shop film to protect for a year or two.
Go for it. You can always send it to the scrapper if it's not salvageable. Parts have value. Vertical head is worth half of what your paying.

Thanks for the advice. I took delivery a week ago. Just getting things freed up and cleaning add the gunk off it. Couple of problem found so far:

Overram was stuck fast rusted. Made some channels with silicone and filled with perpetrating out, after 3 days beating it with a lump of oak if finally moved.

Spindle speed selector is locked solid. don't know if that is because there is no hydraulic pressure yet?

Dose any one know what oils the mill takes? The tank in the knee is up to level, but the other tank I suspect it the lube oil in the body of the mill is empty.

slipalong said:

Thanks for the advice. I took delivery a week ago. Just getting things freed up and cleaning add the gunk off it. Couple of problem found so far:

Overram was stuck fast rusted. Made some channels with silicone and filled with perpetrating out, after 3 days beating it with a lump of oak if finally moved.

Spindle speed selector is locked solid. don't know if that is because there is no hydraulic pressure yet?

Does any one know what oils the mill takes? The tank in the knee is up to level, but the other tank I suspect it the lube oil in the body of the mill is empty.

Click to expand...

I take a gallon of diesel fuel and add a quart of motor oil when I start on a rusty stuck project. Get a plastic spray bottle and flood the shafts and ways. Be patient. Where water ran in so will the oil, dont force things to much. Give the oil time to soak in while cleaning up the exposed rust. If you break something it can kill the project. Someone from The UK could suggest gearbox lubrication. You may want to flush it with kerosene or diesel fuel. Maybe someone could say weather or not diesel fuel could swell any seals on this mill.
Good luck

I think your mill is from the early to mid 1970's
Here is a publication from kieth Rucker on the 203 to 205 models. Mid 60's mills.
I'm not even sure they are in the same family of mills.
Here is the link. It may not be of any help. Hopefully it helps.
You may want to find an owners/operating manual. Post some pictures if you can. Do the tables move?
The Cincinnati lathe and tool company is a different company than the Cincinnati milling machine company. I'm not sure who made yours.

Cincinnati Lathe & Tool Co. - Publication Reprints - 203-205 Cintimill Instructions and Repair Parts Manual | VintageMachinery.org
You can download the pdf thanks to Kieth Rucker and his great website.
Cincinnati Milacron 2MK, Milling Machine, Operators Instructions Manual 1975 | eBay
Expensive for 58 pages

The 207MK did not have a very good reputation ,a nice machine to use but some had reliability issues. Hopefully you will have good luck with yours and at least you haven't paid a lot for it. It would have been made in the Birmingham UK factory.

So made some progress everything is now moving after soaked everything with diesel/oil for over a week. All the gibs out and have cleaned off the ways. Ive connected a 220V VFD to the motors and they all spin freely and bearing sound good! relays and starters in the electrical cab have been damp and all need replacing. Anybody got a wiring diagram panel in the cab says 307, assuming that's the circuit setup?

Bad points are the x axis screw is pitted a little so I am in the process of removing the table to get the screw and the nuts out. There seem to be two nuts, I assume this is part of the anti backlash setup. I will take it out as a unit and do electrolitic rust removal.

If anybody can scan me a circuit diagram that would be great.

The relays may be good. You can clean up the mechanical part of the relays (the plunger). Dont sand or file the points They are plated and sanding through will ruin them.
That screw will clean up nice. I hope it all works out well for you. Now you have old iron disease. There is no cure. You will need a new fix on a regular basis or the withdrawal gets bad. It's like any other addictive drug.