Cincinnati 2ML

Eremius · Sep 6, 2016

So a few weeks ago a Cincinnati 2ML followed me home mere steps ahead of a trip to the scrapper.

I've been doing some general cleaning and taking care of some issues I've found. One of those issues was a broken stud on the vertical head. I have pulled the head off (where it angles down in the picture) but there is no obvious way to get the ring which retains the studs off.

While I have the service manual for the 2ML mill, it makes no reference to the vertical head. Which means I have no drawings showing how deeply I need to dig in to get this repaired.

I would be extremely grateful for any help that could be provided.

Richard King · Sep 6, 2016

I am assuming you mean the bolts / nuts that hold the head on to the ram? Those are T-bolts that ride inside a T-slot. Usually in the slot the is a opening where you can move the T-Bolt around to the hole and pull out the T-bolt. A picture of the what your describing would help.

Eremius · Sep 7, 2016

Richard King said:
I am assuming you mean the bolts / nuts that hold the head on to the ram? Those are T-bolts that ride inside a T-slot.

Yes, that is what I was referring to and, yes, they are t-bolts.

Usually in the shot the is a opening where you can move the T-Bolt around to the hole and pull out the T-bolt. A picture of the what your describing would help.

There isn't a front slot in this one, there is one in the back. The round clearance holes are to get out the bolts that I suspect hold this plate on.

Richard King · Sep 7, 2016

Looks like the bolts you removed plus dowel pins hold it on. make a slide hammer that use a long nut like you use on a Mill hold down extension or regular nut and slide the tee nut around the slot and pull it out. Sometimes the clearance hole for the hold down bolts are or can be tapped to put in a puller bolt.

PS: For those who are learning to scrape, look at the ring, it has been scraped to get the headstock alignment

Eremius · Sep 7, 2016

Richard King said:
PS: For those who are learning to scrape, look at the ring, it has been scraped to get the headstock alignment

There is also pristine scraping on the head itself. It doesn't look like it has been moved much.

Paolo_MD · Sep 7, 2016

Eremius,
Before giving you any suggestion, I would need to see more pictures, especially on the back of that part.
I strongly believe that the T-bolts need to come out from the hole in the back at 12 o'clock (9 o'clock in the crooked picture). But how to get that hole open, that is what you have to remove and in which order is not 100% clear to me. For instance: is it a single piece with the central hub, or is it a doughnut? If the latter, would it clear the helical gear, or not?
Is it any good surface in the back for "grabbing" with a gear puller or similar device? I don't know how much experience you have and how good you are in dosing your force, but I'd be personally very careful pulling with a slide-hammer on the T-bolts. T-slots are relatively fragile.
If the back is not conductive to positive grabbing/light-tapping with a lead mallet, maybe it's worth considering making a fixture to which you bolt to as many T-bolts as possible and use a gear puller or slide-hammer on the fixture, distributing the stress to as many points as possible.

Just my two cents.

Paolo

cmike · Sep 7, 2016

You have a picture of the oiling spots, the serial no. is on the bottom of it. I can't read it. I need a serial no. if you could.

Thanks,
Mike

Eremius · Sep 8, 2016

Paolo_MD said:
Eremius,
Before giving you any suggestion, I would need to see more pictures, especially on the back of that part.
I strongly believe that the T-bolts need to come out from the hole in the back at 12 o'clock (9 o'clock in the crooked picture). But how to get that hole open, that is what you have to remove and in which order is not 100% clear to me. For instance: is it a single piece with the central hub, or is it a doughnut? If the latter, would it clear the helical gear, or not?
Is it any good surface in the back for "grabbing" with a gear puller or similar device? I don't know how much experience you have and how good you are in dosing your force, but I'd be personally very careful pulling with a slide-hammer on the T-bolts. T-slots are relatively fragile.
If the back is not conductive to positive grabbing/light-tapping with a lead mallet, maybe it's worth considering making a fixture to which you bolt to as many T-bolts as possible and use a gear puller or slide-hammer on the fixture, distributing the stress to as many points as possible.

Just my two cents.

Paolo

Well, I managed to get it out. It is not a donut, it is a solid piece with the shaft running through. Just as Richard described. On the back side of the shaft was a splined end that was held by a collar. Once I loosened the collar I was able to gently tap the shaft housing enough to separate the assembly from the rest of the overarm. I will get pictures of it posted soon.

cmike said:
You have a picture of the oiling spots, the serial no. is on the bottom of it. I can't read it. I need a serial no. if you could.

Thanks,
Mike

I will see if I can't dig up the serial number tonight. For clarification, do you expect the serial number to be on the place where the model is listed?

johnoder · Sep 8, 2016

do you expect the serial number to be on the place where the model is listed?

Its stamped on the bottom of the tag in your photo above - possibly starting with 2U

Eremius · Sep 9, 2016

Serial number:

This is the collar that was holding the shaft in

And this is the back of the shaft assembly

johnoder · Sep 9, 2016

Machine was made in 1948 - the 1U before the hyphen tells the tale

cmike · Sep 10, 2016

C MIKe

johnoder said:
Its stamped on the bottom of the tag in your photo above - possibly starting with 2U

Your right, its the model. I was in a hurry, wasn't thinking . Serial number is on the right face of the table.

Eremius · Sep 15, 2016

Looking ahead to flood coolant, what will this machine be able to use? Soluble oil? Some flavor of synthetic coolant?

Would I be better off just forgetting flood and using a mister?

Eremius · Sep 27, 2016

More forward progress. The right angle of the overarm is mounted again. I removed the spindle head and found some fun. Lots of ick to go around.

I need to get inside the spindle as it is leaking. Once I get this cleared up it should be all set.

Hopefully it goes quickly. My phase converter arrives in a couple of days.

M.B. Naegle · Sep 30, 2016

The powered over-rams are cool. :drool5:

I wish I had found one to fit the Cincinatti 2L when I was hunting for a replacement ram, but I honestly can't complain that I was able to get the basic one.

sdporter · Oct 24, 2016

Pink buckets?? Work in healthcare? I have a few of those myself, fringe benefits of hospital maintenance. I have an old Cincinnati #2 that was built in I believe 1921, it still runs good and is in fair condition for being close to 100 years old. It looks like it was a horizontal mill and has been converted to a vertical. My question is with regards to the oil. I would like to change it in the gearbox. Does anyone have an idea of what type it may be? Or what to replace it with? Also way oil? I haven't bought any yet. I have an old Rockford Economy Lathe (1950's) also, would the same oils be ok for both (way and gearbox)? I apologize for the seemingly stupid questions. I have never owned a lathe or mill till this year and only really used the hospitals sparingly the last 8 years. Most of you have probably forgotten more than I know. Appreciate the help. Thanks

sdporter · Oct 24, 2016

^^^^^^^^
I just read that and it looks like I'm asking if you can use the same oil in the gearbox and on the ways. I meant the same gearbox oil in both machines and the same way oil on both machines

A Dull Beaver · May 15, 2019

I'm restoring one now. Here is my first vid on it: YouTube

Cincinnati 2ML

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