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Cincinnati Hydrashift 12-1/2x36 Tapered Roller Bearing Shaft Axial Endplay Setup?

Elwood1968

Cast Iron
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
For those familiar with these lathes, you'll know that the factory manual is often lacking in specifics. For example, there are tapered roller bearings on the "A" (spindle), "B", "D" (clutch), and driven pulley input shafts in the headstock. The manual gives some guidance on the axial endplay setup for the spindle shaft, but no measurements (just a touchy-feely guidance). The other shafts have no instructions at all, other than "assembly is the reverse of disassembly".

Since I removed all of the shafts except for the spindle, and I'm now reassembling the headstock with all new bearings, I'd like to get the endplays correct and avoid a repeat of this repair job. :cryin:

So, does anyone have suggestions or practical experience with a good axial endplay cold setup for these bearings? I'm leaning towards something between 0.002" and 0.004" cold.
 
C Mike

For those familiar with these lathes, you'll know that the factory manual is often lacking in specifics. For example, there are tapered roller bearings on the "A" (spindle), "B", "D" (clutch), and driven pulley input shafts in the headstock. The manual gives some guidance on the axial endplay setup for the spindle shaft, but no measurements (just a touchy-feely guidance). The other shafts have no instructions at all, other than "assembly is the reverse of disassembly".

Since I removed all of the shafts except for the spindle, and I'm now reassembling the headstock with all new bearings, I'd like to get the endplays correct and avoid a repeat of this repair job. :cryin:

So, does anyone have suggestions or practical experience with a good axial endplay cold setup for these bearings? I'm leaning towards something between 0.002" and 0.004" cold.

Are they a timken type cup and cone bearings ? Timken back in the day when these mills were made, they said .002 thousand cold set. The bearing will fry at 143 degrees. If you put your hand on the area of the running bearing and your hand reacts, that's too hot. You are over 105 degrees. Harbor Freight has a cheap laser heat gun too. I have one.
 
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Thanks, cmike.

Yes, all of the tapered roller bearings in the headstock are Timken separate cup and cone. Some of them have flanged cups, which are not always easy to find, and often expensive when they are available. Not as bad as Dodge Power Wagon differential pinion bearings, though. :eek:

Did you mean "Timken back in the day..."? Or that Timken was a bad product back when these lathes were new?

I've got one of those non-contact temperature guns, too, and planned on monitoring the temps, but that requires running with the headstock cover off. And we all know what a mess that becomes when shifting gears...
 
Back in the day meant at that time period of the machines born date. I would think it still applies today. This was what the Dial type mills spindle bearings were set at . I did set a big bearing out in the field one time using the temper control. If it ran too hot we back it off and run the temperture check again. Factory sets them with their push - pull fixture or what ever they used.
By the way, Timken will tell you 1 in 500 new bearings are bad. Pays to look at the rollers. I did fine one. Sand pits show up.
 








 
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