Cincinnati Milacron #2 cutter grinder electrical schematics.

I have been looking over my new (to me) Cincinnati Milacron #2 cutter grinder
and was wondering how the control box is wired. There are some contactors,
fuses, switches, and terminal blocks in there.

I am going to use it with a VFD so I need to know what to change.

I have looked through all the manuals that I have collected and found
no wiring diagrams.

C Mike

Mr_CNC_guy said:

I have been looking over my new (to me) Cincinnati Milacron #2 cutter grinder
and was wondering how the control box is wired. There are some contactors,
fuses, switches, and terminal blocks in there.

I am going to use it with a VFD so I need to know what to change.

I have looked through all the manuals that I have collected and found
no wiring diagrams.

Click to expand...

What is the serial number. Does it have a electrical print number on the bottom of the plate ?

You will need to furnish more information before we can help you. Approx. year of manufacture, type of grinder head, extras and so forth. I have one made in 1953 which uses the motor in the base and with aux DC power feed of the table. Mine has a large electrical cabinet on the back that has all the controls. There is also a panel on the front left corner with start-stop and direction controls.

Post pictures of what you have, particularly of the inside any electrical panels.

Tom

Where is the VFD going?
Supplying mains power or just as a spindle drive?
It's not very complicated to map out on your own and Cinci used standard USA/automotive control wiring practice.
Bob

The original serial number stamped on the base is: 1DAB-5P-70-156.
The new serial number stamped on the tag is: 1D2T6P-146.

Here is a picture of the machine:


Here is a picture of the electrical box:


I realized that you are not supposed to have any other device
between the motor and the VFD. It should be a direct connection.
Any switches or fuses should be before the VFD.

So I bypassed everything in the box and connected the motor
wires directly to the wires from the incoming cord. I plugged
it into the VFD mounted on my wall and everything worked OK.
The motor ran quietly so the bearings are good.

The motor on my motorized head is just an ordinary 120 volt single
phase motor which I will plug into a wall socket rather than the
socket on the left side of the base.

I had considered mounting the VFD inside the box after removing
all of the unused stuff but the VFD has a fan and needs cooling.
The electrical box is pretty air tight so I think that heat might
be a problem.

I think that I am good to go with what I have now.

I have tried to respond to the questions and post some pictures but nothing
has appeared. Am I doing something wrong?

Certainly nothing wrong with VFD on a #2 , but what RPMs are you looking for. Most #2 have an AO speed and a diamond wheel speed perhaps 3800 and 6000 on some machines.

OT: how do you intend to use the machine? You can sharpen drills, gun drill, reamers and end mills, tickle insert corners to double the life of mill cutters, cut off steel and carbide Pretty much sharpen just about any cutter..

I have a new in the box (never opened) multi drive KBM_240D thatI will be selling but it is a solid state variable speed *DC motor control for 1hp and 2hp so not for your motor. They cost about $125 and the box is marked $125.. guess I would take $80 for it

KB Electronics, 937, KBMD-24D, -9/-18VDC, .75/1.5 HP, Nema 1, DC Drive

QT Op: [The motor on my motorized head is just an ordinary 120 volt single
phase motor which I will plug into a wall socket rather than the
socket on the left side of the base.]

With that being a manual machine there is not much more than the work light and the motor control..
But that is such a nice spindle I would hire an electrician to set it up ..so not taking any chances...

OH? is it now a two speed spindle?

Fixturers make the machine a simple (or precision ) angle plate with attaching a V block can become a work head..

A bargain spin index attached to an angle plate can become a work head.
Precise 5-C Collet Spin Index Fixture - 1-5-1 - Penn Tool Co., Inc

With not having a finger to set tooth lip upon One can butter fly (back and forth on wheel) to form a circle land on a cutter, then set clearance angle to bring that grind just up to make sharp for high precision tooth height.

Even a simple weld mit or bolted together assembly can be a stand-up for a v block or spin index..
for sharpening the part is king not the fixture.. so one just bumps a little to make angle/not depend on the accuracy fixture.

Mr_CNC_guy said:

....

I had considered mounting the VFD inside the box after removing
all of the unused stuff but the VFD has a fan and needs cooling.
The electrical box is pretty air tight so I think that heat might
be a problem.
....

Click to expand...

The VFD needs the fans to move air over it's internals.
IMO, all machine controls should be "air tight".
The walls of the box itself serve as a heat sink/ cooling surface. (there are calculations for this but messy and needlessly complicated.)
If worried you can put the wire end of a very, very cheap indoor/outdoor thermometer inside the cabinet to check.

You can just put the wire in and close the door on it.
We do this all the time with a handful of such to check temps in differing areas of a cabinet.

I would not hesitate to put the VFD inside the box if there is room available. I would never mount it "open" and would give it it's own box if more room needed.
My take on controls is easy. If you can't hit the machine and panels with a full blast pressure washer and not worry it's not right.
Bob