Cincinnati No2 Tool & Cutter grinder serial number

Odd Cincinnati No2 Tool & Cutter grinder serial number

Another serial number question I'm afraid. One if the first things you do ("what have I actually brought home?") Is checking serial numbers. I've read several posts and googled on the matter, but the number on my new to me machine doesn't seem to make any sense. The machine was produced in Birmingham and the serial number is CK6510-10. The motor (2700 rpm) is in the base of the machine and runs a flat belt.
The 'C' could mean "tool & cutter grinder" but the 'K' doesn't fit that system.. If you ignore the 'k' you could think that the '65' following the 'C' is the production year, but the 'C' was used to identify tcg's up to 1960..
HELP!?

Like you say, CK6510 was sixties - CK6413 for '64 and CK6713 for '67. - per serial book dated 1975

I am going to even suppose that 6510 was a differing location than 6413 or 6713

Sorry, I'm afraid I'm still confused. According to the info on lathes.co.uk and other sites, Birmingham would use a letter ('C' for tool and cutter grinders) followed by 2 digits for the year for machines built up to 1960. In 1960 they had another system were they used the number '5' and a letter to indicate the year. If this machine was built in Birmingham in '65, the serial number should have contained the combination '5R' as well as the letter 'E' to show it was built in England.

Does the '75 serial number book cover the English machines as well?

Looks like the 1947 casting ..I think that went on to 1955 In the US , dont know about Brit machine.
(X) Nope Im wrong on that because I see that casting on older and newre machines. Im just going by looks, think I have the numbers some place..perhaps on my old computer..
*still Johnoder is usually righ on.
I dont recognize that cover at the front.
Are you going to use it?
Good to pull the table and clean the balls.
to do that you push the table to one side to expose the lock block, and then push it the other way to remove the other. (X) but be carful to not have a gravity tip off the machine and table falls on the floor...
Don't wire brush the number dials but clean wiht fine abraive paper.
If it oil spindle be sure both side take oil.( often that spindle was rebuilt with grease and you will find a fill plug in thr oil hole.
make some wheel guards.

Thanks for the advise. Yes, the plan is to strip/clean/lube and rebuild it. I might even find some (exc)use for it .

Case1 said:

Does the '75 serial number book cover the English machines as well?

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The UK page is where I got my numbers posted above - no one should pretend such serial books are the last word in factual information - the entire book is based on info the publishers asked the machinery builders to send - voluntarily

Case1 said:

Thanks for the advise. Yes, the plan is to strip/clean/lube and rebuild it. I might even find some (exc)use for it ��.

Click to expand...

If you try to lift the saddle with not letting lose the cross lead screw you will bend the cross lead screw.
It may have a double (piggey back) set screw... one on top of the other.
The lead screw nut has a stem that goes into the base casting..It may also just be stuck with the set screw let lose.. You can see the bottom of that T nut looking into the base side door and looking up..It looks like about 1 1/2" round stub with a center at the center..Yes I have a brand new coss lead screw and nut surplus to my needs ..but it would be costly to ship to the uk. free teavel in the lead screw dosent matter for most sharpening tasks.

I have seen them bent from just stuck..

Drill and end mill end sharpening are simple with that machine.. Mill cutter and insert mill cutter also simple.. for insert mill cutters one can often change the corner bevel to get double use of the inserts. just change the 45* to a 60* or make it larger, change a radius to a bevel.. a simple task. Coating on mill cuttes is still on the face so still good.

Sorry, wasn't trying to be a wise#@$. The fact that the info I found online didn't match my machine got me confused in the first place. I downloaded the 11th edition of the serial number reference book, and that has the same info on British machines as I found on lathes.co.uk. So I agree, don't trust everything you find in reference books..

It was imported into the Netherlands by a company ("Bien Fait") that got involved with Cincinnati after WW2. This machine has a complete set of Dutch decals/plates on it. You don't make those for just a few machines. So maybe they also got a seperate line of serial numbers.