cincinnati toolmaster 1d broken - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    get it all back together this morning, that top of the head with the motor is heavier if your alone. guess we'll see if it works.

    i'm getting a lot of conflicting data about the kwik switch.
    could some one compare with me. i really have no idea weather its a 200 or a 300.

    how is the acura flex collets for taking sideways force?

  2. #22
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    i got it running, and have a kind stupid question- which way should forward by on the L S R thing?

  3. #23
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    If its a Cincy spindle you are talking about...., L eft means Counterclockwise looking at spindle end, R ight means Clockwise... N eutral means feeds work..

    IF your motor rotation is correct...

  4. #24
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    ha i wired it wrong, have to flip that tomorrow.

    Thanks

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by abarnsley View Post
    If its a Cincy spindle you are talking about...., L eft means Counterclockwise looking at spindle end, R ight means Clockwise... N eutral means feeds work..

    IF your motor rotation is correct...
    I think it depends on where your standing when you look at the spindle...

    Cincinnati determines rotation as if YOU are the spindle and looking at the work...
    Examples...
    YOU are a right hand rotation End mill... R turns the spindle in the correct rotation
    YOU are a normal drill bit..... R turns the drill clockwize as YOU look through the spindle at the work....

    Now, which way does your spindle turn??

    IF you are hooking up a machine for the FIRST TIME, you need to check this because the direction of the coolant pump is determined by how you wire the leads to the incoming power disconnect switch... Wire it up wrong and the pump will still pump a litttle, wire it correctly so the spindle R turns clockwise as you look from the top through the spindle and the pump will turn correctly...

    Also all the other motors on this or any other machine will rotate in the correct direction...
    On this machine, the Toolmaster, it could have a table feed motor and a crossfeed motor, so making sure the spinde turns correctly makes sure that the other 3 motors also are correct....

  6. #26
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    well i dont have to worry about any of that because its all broken lucky me.



    tell me if im wrong but i believe abarnsley us saying L would be correct for a standard endmill, where as Gary E is saying the reverse is true.
    am i miss interpreting something?

  7. #27
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    On the discussion about the head rotation one other thing to keep in mind is unlike a cheapo Bridgeport if you put the machine into high gear the direction of rotation doesn't change! The sad thing is as one who learned to machine on his Toolmaster this little fact caused me a little bit of head scratching the first time I was turned loose on a Bridgeport and quite a bit of embarrassment too!

  8. #28
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    coolant anyone
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails photo-1-.jpg  

  9. #29
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    there is this door on the left side- can someone tell me whats behind it? i cant get it off- seams to be spring loaded.

    thanks for the help guys.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails photo-5.jpg   photo-4.jpg  

  10. #30
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    Yetiking,
    In my book that door is a bracket that supports the bearing on the end of the shaft for the elevating crank. When you take the bolts out and pry on the bracket you are bending the shaft, thats why it feels springy.

    Rick

  11. #31
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    In the pics on post #17 I see that you have removed the gearbox for the power feed on the quill. What has to be done to remove this box? My feed appears to be working but is not driving the quill up or down. I suspect a sheared key but I have to remove the gearbox to access it.

  12. #32
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    Keckgonnerman,
    When I first got my mill the feed was skippy sometimes it worked sometimes not. I didn't have a manuel at the time, but it turned out to be a broken roll pin in the feed gearbox. There's 4 bolts that hold the top half of the mill together, we were able to lift it with a forktruck. Adam had a very good suggestion of tilting the head over 90* and laying it on the table, then sliding it apart. There is a fiber gear in this gearbox that looks like it would cost a million dollars from Cincinnati so be careful in that area. The roll pin is there so you don't damage the gear.

    Rick Hinsen

  13. #33
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    Thanks (I think?) Rick, I was hoping that I would be able to remove the gearbox without removing the motor and the top of the machine. Your idea about tilting the head to that the table supports the motor could work pretty good. After removing the feed selector knob I can tell that the gearbox is working properly. Whatever is connecting the box to the quill is slipping. I still do not understand how the hand lever on the right side works independantly from the power feed. How do you dis engage the feed so that you can use the handle?

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by KeckGonnerman View Post
    Whatever is connecting the box to the quill is slipping.
    That would be the shaft that connects the handle to the feed box
    I still do not understand how the hand lever on the right side works independantly from the power feed. How do you dis engage the feed so that you can use the handle?
    It's not independant... that shaft has either a spline or a key on the end that mates with the feedbox. If the power feed is engaged, it turns that shaft, the gear cut on the shaft mates with the rack cut on the quill and moves the quill, the other end goes to the handle...

    If the power feed is turning, and the quill not moving, something is broken, probably the key or spline...

    It's been to many yrs since I took one of these apart to remember much more.

  15. #35
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    Thanks Gary. What I really do not understand is how the hand lever works. Since the feed is worm gear drive I would think it impossible to raise or lower the quill without using the power feed.

  16. #36
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    The 90° trick worked. I tilted the head and used wood blocks to support it on the table. I got everyting apart and found a sheared rool pin in the coupler between the gearbox and the head. When I get a new roll pin everthing should work. There is no gasket on this gearbox but I see some kind of sealer. What type of sealer should I use on this? What kind of oil goes in the gearbox?

  17. #37
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    Use No 2 Permatex (that's the soft) or the Aircraft that is painted on with a brush to seal the mating surfaces and any medium wgt oil will be fine.

  18. #38
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    I got the headstock put back together .... finally! The rethreaded drawbolt hold the tool in the spindle perfectly. I got the rool pin in and the quill feed works. Now, the only way that I can raise or lower the quill is by using the handwheel on the front of the gearbox. What am I doing wrong? What disengages the quill gearbox from the hanndle on the right?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails p2100900.jpg   p2100901.jpg   p2100902.jpg  

  19. #39
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    The "drill press" handle on the RH side of the head has two positions; that is, the knob & handle can be pivoted to the left or to the right a bit.

    One position engages the "drill press" handle to feed the quill, in the other position, the fine feed handwheel on the LH front of the head feeds the quill.

    Mike

  20. #40
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    The hand feed lever is spring loaded to the right, which engages handwheel. Moving it to the left disengages the handwheel and engages the lever. You may have to rotate lever a bit to get it to fully engage.


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