cincinnati toolmaster 1d broken - Page 3
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  1. #41
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    When I move the lever to the left the quill feed is still engaged. Any ideas where I should look to fix this? The only way to move quill up & down is by using the crank on the front of the power feed box.

  2. #42
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    These may help diagnose the problem.

    Mike






  3. #43
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    Thanks for the illustrations. The original problem with the feed not working was a sheared roll pin. The picture shows it as part 445B in the lower left corner of page 66. Now I need to figure out how to disengage the handle from the quill. This may be the reason that the pin got sheared in the first place. I think the pictures will help. Do you have a list identifing the parts by name?

  4. #44
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    Seeing that you have it torn down that far apart may as well go ahead and replace the seal behind that clutch. That would be 447B in your drawing. If memory serves me correctly this is the correct mcmaster part #5154T18. Eventually the rubber dries out in the factory seal and when that happens every time you pull the quill down it leaks all over the table with oil. In fact it also gets a real slow leak with time.

    The only issue is getting the darn seal out of there. It is rubber inside, with stamped metal cage. You will have to pick the rubber out piece by piece with a pick or something. Than once a good portion of the rubber is gone, take a small cold chisel or something delicate and fold the metal in on itself. That will then give you a nice area to pull on with a pair of pliers or something to pull the seal out.

    Last thing not to be too critical, but how come you tilted the head 90deg and not 180? It kind of looks like the motor portion is a little precarious on its side there? I usually find that going a full 180 is a little more stable.

    As for that shear pin, be prepared, it doesn't seem to take much to break them, I am on number 2 in 4years now. I want to say the last one broke when I was simply drilling a large side hole. Once you start drilling with power feed you really get lazy. Now a days I rarely find myself using the pull down quill. Often I just dial by hand up and down for rapid, and then use the power feed.

  5. #45
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    Oops, I already have the machine back together. There was oil in the gearbox when I tore it down so hopefully the seal is still in good shape. It never occured to me the turn the head 180°. I would have had to extend the ram to make that work also. The motor was sitting on wood blocks and was actually quite stable. It really worked pretty godd that way.
    P.S. What oil should I be using in the gearbox?

  6. #46
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    Oops, I already have the machine back together. There was oil in the gearbox when I tore it down so hopefully the seal is still in good shape. It never occured to me the turn the head 180°. I would have had to extend the ram to make that work also. The motor was sitting on wood blocks and was actually quite stable. It really worked pretty godd that way.
    P.S. What oil should I be using in the gearbox?
    I want to say DTE Light but I could be wrong. The machine currently resides in my parents house and that is a 150miles away. (I could check at the beginning of April if still needed when I go home.) I don't get to play as often as I like for the time being. None the less the operators manual tells the oil, but the oil is obsolete so you will have to call Mobil to get a translation.

    If you have the oil filled to the level line and no oil is draining out to the table or pouring out when you go to lower the quill chances are the seal is still in tact. But from personal experiences and reading the forum over the years it appears that this is a part that happens to require replacing ever 30-40yrs or so, and if you have it that far apart it is a good time to do it.

  7. #47
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    The manual calls for Cincy spec P-55, which is a "medium hydraulic and general purpose oil." Lube manual shows "Mobil D.T.E. Oil Medium" as an approved product. I use Chevron GST ISO 46.

  8. #48
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    I fonally got the manual feed for the quill fixed. Thanks to the schematic that MrHoney posted. I found that the outer snap ring part 468B was missing. I also found that someone had put a stiff spring behind the spool part 464B pushing outward. I'm not sure what they were trying to accomplish with the spring. Got rid of the spring and intalled the snap ring now it all works as it should.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by KeckGonnerman View Post
    .... The original problem with the feed not working was a sheared roll pin. The picture shows it as part 445B in the lower left corner of page 66....
    Thanks all for the thread.
    Yep, my spindle pf problem was the 445B roll pin.
    Huge thanks!!

    Daryl
    MN

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by adammil1 View Post
    Seeing that you have it torn down that far apart may as well go ahead and replace the seal behind that clutch. That would be 447B in your drawing. If memory serves me correctly this is the correct mcmaster part #5154T18. Eventually the rubber dries out in the factory seal and when that happens every time you pull the quill down it leaks all over the table with oil. In fact it also gets a real slow leak with time.
    Replying in case anyone else found this part number via Google.

    The seal I removed is labeled "VG 64109" which is a Victor part number that I was able to cross reference to Timken 481538 or SKF 6767, which is a 11/16" ID, 1-1/4" OD, 1/4" deep, which matches the dimensions of the old part. The part# above is for a 7/8" ID, 1-1/4" OD and is not correct (for my machine at least).

    Timken or National part # 471538 has the same dimensions but a different wiper design, which is what I ended up being able to order and get here the quickest.
    The only issue is getting the darn seal out of there. It is rubber inside, with stamped metal cage. You will have to pick the rubber out piece by piece with a pick or something. Than once a good portion of the rubber is gone, take a small cold chisel or something delicate and fold the metal in on itself. That will then give you a nice area to pull on with a pair of pliers or something to pull the seal out.
    An automotive seal puller tool worked fine for me.
    Last edited by mnd; 09-01-2019 at 10:38 AM.

  11. #51
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    use sheet metal screw

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmike View Post
    use sheet metal screw
    That works great when the seal is installed the opposite direction. (ie: motorcycle fork seals, engine rear main seals etc.)


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