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Cincinnati Toolmaster 1D Parts needed

carleemonarch

Plastic
Joined
Apr 13, 2008
Location
texarkana texas
I just purchased a cincinnati Toolmaster 1D round column milling machine that had been disassembled. The T bolts for the column to turret are missing. Are these just a standard T bolt with a square head or are they special. Does anyone have any that they would sell. I do have a lathe and could make some if necessary but would like to know the dimensions. Thanks
 
I dont have the serial number yet as it is still in a field 10miles from my house. I will look tomorrow when I go there to clean up the mill and get some of the surface rust cleaned off. The ways on the table and knee look good condition just a lot of surface rust. I was able to find two of the tee bolts, they are 5/8" x 4" with a rectangular head. I bought the mill, and a 1920s marvel 8 band saw for $500. I am going to install the ram back on the column before moving so that I will be easier to rig for the move to my shop.
 
I dont have the serial number yet as it is still in a field 10miles from my house. I will look tomorrow when I go there to clean up the mill and get some of the surface rust cleaned off. The ways on the table and knee look good condition just a lot of surface rust. I was able to find two of the tee bolts, they are 5/8" x 4" with a rectangular head. I bought the mill, and a 1920s marvel 8 band saw for $500. I am going to install the ram back on the column before moving so that I will be easier to rig for the move to my shop.

If you're picking from the top the whole way, then the overarm mounted, can be helpful.

If you need to pick or move from bottom side, id prefer overarm not mounted, as you'll take the edge off it being top heavy, and avoid a face plant. Column, knee, base by themselves keep weight at a low point.

Just food for thought.
 
If you were just picking the column and knee with out the ram how would you rig. Under the knee with one strap, not sure were to attach the 2nd strap to

I'm not 100% sure without seeing it, location, equipment etc. But you mentioned it being in a field, then there's the matter of getting it into your building.

If you needed to pick with forks from under base, that would be its most unstable point with overarm and head mounted. Not sure how tall your garage door is, assuming you're going into a building, but if height is an issue, might need something with forks, a pallet jack, skates etc. to get inside, or to move around once inside. Working with the weight supported from bottom of base, in those situations is where it would be less stable when overarm and head is on.

Might not be a problem for you if you have 13' doors or heavier equipment.
 
I would advise against rigging it around the knee as you could damage the elevating screw. Forking it or slinging it under the overarm with the table run all the way down and back against the column is probably the safest and securest way, you can adjust the balance by moving the table in or out so it hangs level. If you have to get it from the base use some plywood or something resilient between it and the forks, and strap it to the mast,you could also build a sturdy pallet. When I moved my son in laws 1A we used a backhoe and slings, it moved easily that way. It can be moved with pipe rollers egyptian style but you will need to fasten 2 pieces of material to the base as the base is not completely flat. Jim
 
Thanks for all of your replys, my shop has a concrete driveway in front of it, and two 12ft x 7ft high doors. I have just built a telescoping 2ton A frame hoist with heavy casters that will go under the door and telescope to 10ft high. I also have a dolly built out of heavy angle iron with casters that I have moved my bridgeport mill and a roysford drill press on with out any issues. In the past I have used 1/2" pipe but my new shop has painted floors and so that no longer an option with out marking my floors. I think we will first put the ram back onto the column so that I can lift as is shown in the manual. The person that I am buying the equipment has a tractor with a front end loader rated at 1800lb and he has a heavy bolt together A frame. Will more than likely use the tractor to reassemble the ram and head and use the A frame to load the trailer at the field and my a frame to unload. We also have used a backhoe to move equipment. I purchased a monarch ee earlier this year and loaded it with a backhoe. Worked good.
 
I would also recommend reinstalling the head, and lifting the machine by the overarm. That worked very well when I moved mine. Just used pallet forks with a 2x4 on top of the fork to protect the overarm. A 1D weighs about 2500 lbs. The downside of moving with the head and overarm installed is that the machine becomes somewhat tipsy, even with the saddle fully lowered. Don’t skimp on securement during transport. I used 2 2” straps around the column just above the base and 2 more 2” straps at the top of the column.
 
Thanks for the advice, I am going to reinstall the ram, but have a lot of cleaning to do first, as there is a lot of rust in this area. It does clean up but takes a lot of effort. The previous person has also broken the fitting for the flex conduit and the electrical box on the outside of the ram. I am considering removing the head from the ram, which will make it much easier to clean the mating surfaces, and fix the issues with the conduit fittings and box. I would assume that once I loosen the 4 T bolt nuts that the head should come off easily.
 
You may want to take off the motor from the head, the whole head is heavier than it looks and is awkward to handle, although I think it can be revolved or blocked to the table and then the bolts removed, using the table to support the head. Jim
 








 
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