Cincinnati utility hydraulic shaper 20"
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  1. #1
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    Default Cincinnati utility hydraulic shaper 20"

    Hello All,
    I bought this shaper from a online auction unseen. Big mistake. Found damage on it after it was paid for while strapping down on truck.

    Cincinnati utility hydraulic shaper 20" S/N 31235. I will try to attach a pic. The casting holding the table feed stuff on the main frame is broken. I had to remove the fiberglass cover to really see it.
    If anyone knows of one of these being parted out or where I can get parts, parts manual, date of build, would be a life saver.
    Thanks again
    Steve
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20191124_173133.jpg   20191124_112548.jpg   20191124_172849.jpg  

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    You can find the serial number stamped on the head and at the operator's side of the base up by the ram, typically 5 numbers.

    Cincinnati Incorporated can assist with the date of manufacture: Parts Department — Cincinnati Incorporated

    You should ask, but typically parts such as castings, are unavailable for their old shaper product lines.

    CI is very helpful with providing drawings on request.

    Look here for technical info: Cincinnati Shaper Co. / Cincinnati Inc. - History | VintageMachinery.org

    You may have to braze/nickel weld the old feed box back into functional condition!
    Build a fixture to align the mounting face and bores and off you go.

    BTW: your Cincinnati shaper is mechanical, not hydraulic.

    Mike

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    It is just a cover, so I imagine you could braze or nickel weld it back up just fine. Look at John Oder’s post about his 20” Greaves Klusman lathe. He has extensive pictures and discussion of his repair of major casting cracking. It will show you how a master does it! It is a recently updated post, so just scroll down in this forum and take a look
    Last edited by Onepass; 12-28-2019 at 12:02 AM. Reason: Spelling

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    Well.......it looks like fiberglass.
    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by jhruska View Post
    Well.......it looks like fiberglass.
    John
    Well crap! If it is, fiberglass welding rod is hard to find and probably very expensive!

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    The issue is the cast iron feed mechanism housing, located under the fiberglass cover is quite damaged; refer to photo 3 with cover removed.

    Mike

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    repairing castings with bronze weld isnt difficult....issue is when bits are missing,then there is a problem.......Anyhoo ,this is a good example of rule #1.....never pay more than scrap price ,if you cant inspect the machine working...(not just going)

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    Hello, with the help of Walter who I got parts from, Thank you Walter. The machine is ready to operate. Trouble, setting up the electric clutch/brake. the brake seems to work ok, the clutch hardly gets the machine to move, and the oil pump is not building any pressure. This is a 1958-59 model. I thought it was a hyd. unit because it was different from what we had to use in the power plant but it is machinal. Anyway, I will need to go after the oil pump, I am guessing it is in the transmission. Does any one have a set-up directions for the electric clutch? or know of any thing to watch out for going after the oil pump. I have not been able to find a manual for this year of shaper. All help will be much appreciated. Thanks …..Steve

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    Maybe you are running the motor (and pump) backwards?

    Get the cover off the left side (facing shaper looking at cuttiing tool coming at you - your left)

    As you look into the works in the column, bull gear (with the crank pin) HAS TO TURN clockwise - this will make the cutting stroke relatively slow and the return stroke relatively fast

    When you do get the pump running, one of its most important jobs is to oil the crank pin block as it slides up and down in the vertical arm - some oiling you can't even see until that side cover is off
    Last edited by johnoder; 05-23-2020 at 11:52 AM.

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    The fiberglass belt cover at the back of the shaper has 3 arrows in a circle showing the correct motor rotation.

    Mike

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    I found in one of the online manuals it said counter clockwise, the belt guard does have the arrows showing left hand rotation so I believe rotation is correct. What I need to find out about is the oil pump accessibility, can I get access by removing the transmission cover(?) on the back, above the motor? maybe there is a bad hose inside there. The other thing I need to find out is the proper location of the clutch/brake hub. If I adjust the retaining nut to tight everything will lock up. To lose, clutch does not engage. How to make it just right, with out using a hammer to get the drive hub to spin.
    I found on another post to put strokes per min to 0 and shift speed to higher range to help prime the pump. I did this and got the drive hub to spin but oil pressure will not build up. I removed hoses, suction and discharge and tried to prime the pump as with the new oil filter, still no go. Also checked the pick-up check valve when I cleaned the crankcase and oil sump.
    Any ideas of what else to do? Thank you for looking......Steve

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    Hey all, we got the oil pump to working and 50# on the gauge, disconnected the pump discharge hose and started machine as before and pump flowed a few minutes. Reconnected hose and tested, tested good. Now loaded the machine with some 10" of stroke, electric clutch needed help to get the hub spinning and now a loud knock. I think the knock is the rocker arm moving sideways, I found about 3/8" side movement of the thing. I am not sure what controls the side thrust of the rocker arm. Pics of the rocker arm, see the space on the shaft and rocker arm. Any ideas out there? set-up instructions of the elec clutch? //////// Steve

    20200525_192931.jpg20200525_192925.jpg20200525_192925.jpg


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