Hauling this thing home tomorrow - Van Norman 1RQ-3-22 - Page 3
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  1. #41
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    Boxed in gussets on each joint would help. There is to much stress concentrated on his joints/ welds. Legs will want to twist

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  3. #42
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    Pillar is off the base and strapped to dollies for the pickup trip to the backyard landing.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180511_190401.jpg   20180511_200441.jpg  

  4. #43
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    The last big piece is on the landing in front of the back, basement door. Tomorrow they get winched up the ramp covering the 3 steps to the doorway and rolled down the hall and then everything will be inside. The base fits through the doorway (flat) with 1/2" to spare. I'm getting some decent amount of exercise at 63.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180513_144635.jpg  

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  6. #44
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    There they go...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180514_152632.jpg  

  7. #45
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    Here's the base on the crane + 1 ton (combined) saw horses for cleaning. Some of you guys will scream probably, but, here's what the new finish is going to be - waxed bare iron. My basement is super dry and I cut everything dry or with oil/fluid. Nothing rusts here.

    I did the same on my Springfield lathe and love it. A needle scaler did the job there. I'm using a HF air filer on this and it works better I think.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180517_161112.jpg   20180517_164125.jpg   20180517_164135.jpg  

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  9. #46
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    SWEET Machine!

  10. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by morestainless View Post
    Here's the base on the crane + 1 ton (combined) saw horses for cleaning. Some of you guys will scream probably, but, here's what the new finish is going to be - waxed bare iron. My basement is super dry and I cut everything dry or with oil/fluid. Nothing rusts here.

    I did the same on my Springfield lathe and love it. A needle scaler did the job there. I'm using a HF air filer on this and it works better I think.
    Bare iron ? Noooooooo.


    Regards Tyrone.

  11. #48
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    Bare iron ? Yeeeeees !

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    Quote Originally Posted by rustytool View Post
    Bare iron ? Yeeeeees !
    Pre-vert!

    Have to draw the line at Bikini waxing a G-D machine tool!

  13. #50
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    I have a early 1900's Williams drill press that had an original finish that looks like watered down black paint with shalack on it. Or so it appears.. I like the look.. I'm still removing the three coats on green and grey.

  14. #51
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    Preview of the waxed, bare iron look. Had to order a new compressor pump so it has just been sitting for the last 2 weeks.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180604_221530.jpg  

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    I have a little job for this Van Norman, so I'm temporarily setting aside the needle scaling to clean it and put it back together. Don't worry. I will get back to the rebuild... Here's the saddle lead screw, compound nut. That's no flimsy Bridgeport yoke!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180630_202523.jpg  

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  18. #53
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    I'm ready to run some 220v to the fuses/VFD's for this machine. It was very dirty and it looks like they preferred grease over the one-shot lube system. The column/knee ways are not too bad, knee/saddle ways are scored, saddle/table way wear results in .0013" dip in the middle (or is that teeder on the table ends due to the rounded saddle?). Lead screws are pretty worn. Gears are all superb and spindle is nice. First I'm gonna make some iron parallels (for scraping projects). There' a 36" straight edge casting on the floor. 22" travel on the table. Head will tilt to 45 deg.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180704_193553.jpg  

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    Head should tilt a full 90 degrees. I don't believe the quill models were incapable of horizontal mode.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sfriedberg View Post
    Head should tilt a full 90 degrees. I don't believe the quill models were incapable of horizontal mode.
    Assuredly it does the full 90, providing I take all the tools off the top of the column. The 45 deg. was in reference to the straight edge casting on the floor that has a 45 deg. angle to be machined on one surface.

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    Captain Morgan is weighing the options of hanging the VFD's like this, but with metal plate and the VN e-stop dongle hanging below them, or sticking them in the old electronics compartment in the column and running remote lines to a custom, hanging panel.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180713_154306.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by morestainless View Post
    ..or sticking them in the old electronics compartment in the column
    Check your specific VFD's manual. There will be a section specifying minimum size/volume of an enclosure so it does not overheat.

    CAVEAT: The minimums are usually a lot larger than you might expect! There wasn't a lot in the OEM compartment that generated heat, nor was much affected BY it if it had done.

    The wall mount may be the more practical route.

  23. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by morestainless View Post
    Captain Morgan is weighing the options of hanging the VFD's like this, but with metal plate and the VN e-stop dongle hanging below them, or sticking them in the old electronics compartment in the column and running remote lines to a custom, hanging panel.
    My $0.02 (I own a VN 1R3) - I think having a pair of VFDs hanging up on the end of the pendant control pole would be very bulky and clumsy. Also, and although it's 100% your machine, I'd urge you to not gut the existing control cabinet contents. I view these machines from a standpoint of "meant to work and should be worked" and at the same time the 1R series, especially the "Q" are so scarce that I also view them as having a heritage/ legacy component (not incompatible with keeping them working though) where some future owner might wish that the orignal controls were intact, or might want to set things up differently than how I set things up... so I aim to make changes reversible and leave as much of the original parts in situ as possible.

    What about making a box/ bracket that could bolt onto the outside of the sheetmetal outer door of the existing control compartment, and create a "VFD panel" facing the operator, with metal back and top, but no bottom or sides (to shield from flying debris yet allow airflow to the , and with a hinged front made from clear polycarbonate- the clear front would let you see the drives and the hinged front would make it easy to access/ adjust the drives....

    OK, that somehow turned into $0.20....

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  25. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by kd1yt View Post
    My $0.02 (I own a VN 1R3) - I think having a pair of VFDs hanging up on the end of the pendant control pole would be very bulky and clumsy. Also, and although it's 100% your machine, I'd urge you to not gut the existing control cabinet contents. I view these machines from a standpoint of "meant to work and should be worked" and at the same time the 1R series, especially the "Q" are so scarce that I also view them as having a heritage/ legacy component (not incompatible with keeping them working though) where some future owner might wish that the orignal controls were intact, or might want to set things up differently than how I set things up... so I aim to make changes reversible and leave as much of the original parts in situ as possible.

    What about making a box/ bracket that could bolt onto the outside of the sheetmetal outer door of the existing control compartment, and create a "VFD panel" facing the operator, with metal back and top, but no bottom or sides (to shield from flying debris yet allow airflow to the , and with a hinged front made from clear polycarbonate- the clear front would let you see the drives and the hinged front would make it easy to access/ adjust the drives....

    OK, that somehow turned into $0.20....
    On the contrary, I find the VFD's on the pendant arm to be anything but bulky and clumsy. They are light weight. I can swing them from side to side and rotate them to be out of the way but still optimally accessable, for any kind of table/work setup. Having controls on the side panel is totally impractical when you have to leave the work area to walk around or lean over the table to access them.

    I don't trust old wiring/components that much to keep everything original. I bought the machine to use, for it's compact rigidity. The demands of my, perhaps slight, though special production envirgonment must take presidence over the machine's sentimental appeal. It's worn condition (lead screws) will necessitate some changes.

  26. #60
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    Had the previous owner been at all concerned about me, the next owner, they would have filled and used the lube pump regularly. That much I will do.


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