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  1. #21
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    Alright, so starting on the knee instead, taking the front off.

    Set the feed dial to the slowest possible speed, 12mm/min in my case. This aligns everything so you can remove the wormgear and casing behind the feed selector.
    Unscrew the big chunk mounted to the knee(red).
    I also hammered out the coneshaped pin(yellow) so I could get the latch out of position(red), this is so it doesn't stop the round bar from moving forward a bit with the front panel.
    img_8555.jpg

    Unscrew all the allen key bolts, the top row I had to remove completely as it would otherwise cause it to bind up.
    I supported the weight with an engine hoist incase it tried to escape, it's a fairly heavy unit for it's size...
    After I got it out a good 10cm/4" or so I roped the sling around the entire unit instead for a safer grip.
    img_8585.jpg

    To get the front to move out I used the Y-axis/table to push back against the main casting, through some wooden blocks to prevent damage.
    Make sure the Y and Z rods on the left side also move out smoothly with the front.
    img_8586.jpg

    Once you get the front far out enough, it'll drop down a little bit, this lets you unhook the two rods from the mechanism.
    img_8589.jpg

    This is a photo right into the knee from the front.
    I'm suprised that everything is as nice and clean in here, at least happy about that!
    Green goes to the Z screw. Orange is the Y screw, blue is for the splined power shaft and yellow is the gear/shaft that goes to gear 71 mentioned in previous post, behind/inside the rapid traverse gearbox.
    img_8596.jpg

  2. #22
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    So, on to the sad stuff. Found the problem but it's an annoying one.
    sidenote, used the second red sling to balance the gearbox a bit more evenly when taking it out of the knee.
    img_8595.jpg

    New nickname. "Toothless".
    Need to find a replacement somehow, it's quite hard steel, a file just skates over it. Worst case scenario I'll have to find someone who can fabricate and harden a replacement, suspect it might cost way more than it's worth though..
    img_8594.jpg

  3. #23
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    What is the condition of the gear that meshes with that gear? Hopefully it's a standard gear.

  4. #24
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    Need to find a replacement somehow,
    It will have to be a K&T part for a 1H/2HL. Its not like these folks went down to the standard gear store and bought a wheel barrow full of gears, took them back to the plant and had a sit down to see if they could use them somewhere in their machine tools

    It was designed from scratch and MANUFACTURED expressly for doing that job it has. Nothing "standard" about it.

    Now if you want to MAKE a duplicate, let's move on down the road with its specs

    A place to start is its DIAMETRAL PITCH - or "DP"

    Count teeth (don't neglect the three AWOL), add two to that count

    Measure OD - naturally where it is WHOLE

    Divide tooth count plus two by the O.D

    Example:

    32 teeth, 2.125" OD

    34 divided by 2.125 = 16 DP

    No, it does not have MODULE gears

    Appears to be item 56 on PDF page 23 and 24

    http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2098/6553.pdf

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  6. #25
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    Just realized I forgot to update this thread so here's a bit more to it, for whoever is reading.
    Warning, picture heavy!

    Making a brand new gear was definitely over my skill level and having someone else do it was much too expensive.
    I do appreciate the thorough response johnoder!

    Started looking if there were any spares but no luck.

    Before doing something foolish I decided to make the gear in CAD so I would have the measurements down.
    Despite not having the exact tooth profile, it seems to mesh quite nicely from what I can hear and feel.
    Obviously didn't last long since it's just plastic but was enough to try feed and power traverse and everything worked good.


    While I had it down for maintenance I started cleaning and polishing various things.



    Also gave the vertical head some well needed love ...


    Every piece was PACKED with old smelly grease..


    Quite a few fistfuls like this came out.


    Starting to look a bit nicer.


    Back in one piece. I've heard there's some kind of backlash adjustment in these. Anyone know more regarding that?


    To get back onto the gearbox issues.
    I welded up the old gear


    Made a tool(which was very difficult to use)



    But ended up better than before at least.

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  8. #26
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    This worked for a while but after maybe 20 hours of runningtime I started notice stuttering when using powerfeed under heavy load, ie lifting knee so the gear is probably starting to fail.
    It gave me enough time to finish my DRO install.






    Eventually I decided I had to do something about the powerfeeds..
    I absolutely love this machine, despite all of it's flaws from old age.
    So let's commit heresy and throw some modern equipment at it.
    This way I won't need to use the damaged gearbox at all.





    Started sketching up some possible motor mounts.



    Remade in steel/alu.



    Second motormount for Z axis.


    Had to mount the tensioner on this since it ended up a bit slack.


    And it's alive! Still working on X axis!

  9. #27
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    all I can say is ...WOW!!! busy now, will look at this more later..

  10. #28
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    I've heard there's some kind of backlash adjustment in these. Anyone know more regarding that?
    No doubt has to do with how closely or sloppily the two pairs of spiral bevel gears are working with each other

    Such fitment adjustments generally involve looking at how the gears are marking each other with some marking medium

    I do know such attachment's operating temperatures - especially at elevated speeds - are very picky as to JUST bearing snugness

    My double swivel gets very warm at even low speeds

  11. #29
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    Is this a full CNC machine now? When you install the table feed, are you putting it on the right or left side? You’ve already done a fantastic job thats way beyond my skill set.

    It would be slick if the servo was on the right side with the ability to engage/disengage. You’d still have the option of using the table handle, feeds and rapids of the manual mill. You would eliminate the need for the low lead gear box and could create any lead you wanted for thread milling. Maybe make a banjo to connect your dividing head for spiral milling.......then, you would have the ultimate K&T.

  12. #30
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    A weak point of the K&T I believe is one motor to lift the knee and run the spindle.
    Lifting the knee doesn't always go smoothly.
    Can I send you all my handles to have polished ?
    I saw one once that was owned by a hot rod builder and he chromed them all.

  13. #31
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    johnoder: Reason I wonder is because I get the feeling that I have too much play, mostly noticeable when using larger things like >7" flycutters and such. Produces a "slapping" sound in the head, like it's loading up then releasing and "bouncing". Hard to describe.

    Hobby shop:Motors on all axises but I will most likely still just mill "manually" and use the motors as powerfeed and rapid traverse.
    The hardware has space for another axis so it wouldn't be impossible to hook up a divider to a fourth motor.

    rustytool:The knee is definitely a heavy one.. Even the 12Nm stepper doesn't really like it. It can run 540mm/min most of the lower part where it's been worn in but "only" 300mm/min around 20cm up in it's travel. Quite slow compared to the 2500>mm/min of the X and Y
    I do believe I've done enough polishing for a few years.

    Managed to finish the motor mounts today!
    Took of the crank on the left side to study everything closer and take measurements.


    Transfered all the measurements into CAD and started figuring out where to best place some screws.
    Used that data to print a template for some transfer punching.


    Some drilling and tapping later.


    Not so satisfied with this last plate, could use some more polish.
    This time I went with a slotted bolt pattern directly and firmly attached motor.
    The motor mounts stiffen the plate considerably whilst the slots allows you to easily adjust belt tension.
    Big, thick washers and some spacers behind the plate make sure everything sits solid.
    Still using original screws so running a CNC program won't happen but at least I can comfortably mill with power feed again!

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  15. #32
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    Managed to clean the place out now that the rough work is done..
    The screen I'm running the CNC with can be seen between the windows on the wall, in the future I will make a mount so I can move it down when I want to use it, for a better working position.
    I also have a raspberry pi connected to that screen, so I can with the click of a button change between that and the CNC computer.
    The raspberry mostly works as a music player and "google computer".


    I then started digging into the mill.
    I wanted to disconnect the knee gearbox since there's no point spinning all that stuff around if I'm not using it.
    Simply removed the 3 sprockets on the vertical shafts and put everything back together.


    Here I'm testing all the axises. X and Y are moving at around 2500mm/min at their fastest and Z is doing around 300-360mm/min.
    Sorry about the blinking, my phone camera really doesn't like the garage lights.


    I wrote a little program here to face off this piece, obviously going very easy on everything. Transports here are at 1500mm/min and milling is done at 160mm/min. I could raise both quite a bit I suspect but not going to until I feel more comfortable with the machine.


    Overall REALLY happy with this! It's a joy to use now when I don't have to struggle with the clunky levers that sometimes didn't want to engage and other times didn't want to disengage.

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