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A new accessory for my Brown & Sharpe #2 mill

Fasto

Hot Rolled
Joined
Apr 26, 2007
Location
Central MA
This past week I received a Brown & Sharpe No. 0 Universal Milling Attachment for my #2 "Light" mill. This is a double swivel milling attachment with a 2:1 step-up in the drive. It appears to be in pretty good shape, and the spindle & gears turn nicely. I haven't mounted it yet.
I also got a spare arbor support, and even the attachment crane to swing the milling attchment into place.
Some pictures: (All are clickable thumbnails)

The hex key is used to turn a cam inside the spindle for tool retention. It looks just like a big camlock as found on the D1- series of lathe spindles.

The reason for retaining the tool in that fashion is easy to see from this end. There's no drawbar, and no easy way for B&S to have provided one.

The attachment crane & roller clevis for swinging it into place. There's a pad on the right side of machine column to store the attachment. I will have to find a new place to mount the DRO counter, as I built a little swivel that uses the attachment crane's mount. My mill's original arbor support is mounted and the new one is on the table. It's a little hammered though it should work OK. The arbor supports are aluminum castings on this machine, by the way.

I hear you asking, "Aaron that's great, but what about the driver that fits into the spindle to power the silly thing?" Well, I was worried about that too, after reading the stories of the K&T attachments missing the critial driver, and the troubles with determining exactly the helical gear specs to replace it.
Turns out, B&S had a different idea. There is no driver that gets put in the spindle. Instead, there's a pair of straight cut spur gears inside the attachment, facing the machine's column. One of these gears accepts the spindle drive keys, which provides the drive to the attachment.

The driven gear is clearly smaller, though not half as big as would be needed to acheive the 2:1 increase at this stage. Presumably the bevel gears inside the swivels add to the ratio as well. The stated top speed of the attachment is 2700 RPM output, equating to 1350 RPM in. I don't recall the spindle speeds of the machine exactly though I believe 1350 is about 1 gear down from the top speed of 1500 RPM. This would give 15 possible speeds, top gear on the machine being above the rated output speed.

Looking into the spindle. The cam lock can be seen at the top, in the unlocked position. In the "neck" of the NMTB 30 taper is a spring, presumably to push the tool out when the cam lock is released.
The B&S #2 manual that I have, thanks to Jonny V, states that the spindle has a No. 30 taper and a Browne & Sharpe Cam Lock Construction (that's really what the manual says). A #9 B&S taper was optional, and clearly not what I have. I've never seen a Brown & Sharpe Cam Lock retaining system tool before, and I received no spindle tooling whatsoever. I have been unable to find any reference or drawings of what the cam lock arrangement on the tools should look like.

Any input here would be appreciated, if someone has a drawing of the tooling or even an actual tool, please let me know!

I seem to recall that some South Bend mills used a cam lock retaining system as well. I believe I have seen pictures of this, and I recall that it uses two locking devices which are positioned differently. I looked around the South Bend forum quickly but did not find the pictures I was looking for.

I plan to clean this up, probably involving disassembly to clean out the old grease & reservice the bearings and gears. I'll try to take pictures of this, when I get to working on it, and update this thread.

Now I just need to find a slotter, and a powered rotary table for the machine. I expect the rack cutting attachment may be scarcer than the proverbial hen's teeth, though!

Thanks for taking time to check in.
--
Aaron
 
Sweet! You will love that head hanger, I spent the better part of an hour the other day setting my head without one. I like the drive system B&S used, first time I have ever seen it. Great score and thanks for sharing. Earl
 
I, too am looking for #30 cam lock tooling. There have been exactly 2 pieces on ebay for quite a while, both far overpriced for what they are. If you want a quick picture, look up DeVlieg flash change on ebay. DeVlieg offered theirs in both #40 and #50 versions, and they look similar to the #30, except the larger tapers have the drawbar boss on the back of the taper for use in standard spindles.
 
If you cleaned the taper up and waxed it really well, then fill it with Bondo with the camlock in the locked position. When the Bondo has set unlock the camlock and you should be able to extract a fair replica of what you need. It may be there is a certain amount of shrinkage with Bondo, so that is something you would have to check on.
 
I had a little time to start work on cleaning this unit. I am always a little leery of running something this old without checking if anything is wrong, and that it's lubricated, etc.
It dismantles into three pretty obvious parts. I seem to have mislaid my 13/16ths wrench which made things a little more difficult. The number of different wrenches needed on this machine is pretty high: 15/16ths for the arbor support, 1 1/16th for the drawbar, 1 1/4 for the arbor nuts, 7/8ths if you intend to attach anything to the table, and now 13/16ths to adjust the double swivel head.

The "bottom" of the head that attaches to the machine. I can say that Brown & Sharpe didn't skimp on the cast iron in this, and they certainly knew their gears.

Four T bolts run in that slot, with the flat surfaces scraped for alignment.

The middle piece, with the first 90 degree turn in the gear train. It's also scraped in, though the scraping doesn't show in this picture. The internals are in good shape, and quite obviously well greased. The grease hasn't solidified, thankfully. I'm still considering if I should pull it further apart, possibly risking damage to the bearings. No doubt the bearings are either expensive or hard to come by.

The final 90 degree turn and the spindle itself. Presumably the "29" stamped is a lot number. As usual, the surfaces are scraped. It's also well greased.

I think I will leave it be for now, and just reassemble it. The drive gears from the spindle, though, are full of chips as they're exposed. Those I plan to take off to clean and regrease. Then I'll mount it up and run it, to see how it sounds.

I still need to make some sort of spindle tooling. I had a length of 1.5" 1144 delivered. I bought a pair of ER-20 collet nuts from 'pixman'. I plan to make an ER20 to B&S 30 taper collet chuck - we'll see how that goes :). I just need some ER20 collets for test fit purposes. I may also try to make some regular CAT30 or NMTB30 into the B&S quick change 30, as suggested by svs. We'll see how it goes.
Oh, I can't believe how nicely the 1144 turns. It's really fantastic, compared to the 1018 or 1020 I usually use. In fact it's almost like turning 360 brass, it's so nice to work. (I made a flywheel for my nephew's miniature "steam" engine out of it, just to see how the 1144 behaves, of course. Can I make everything of 1144? Please?)
 
I will keep an eye on this thread, as I recently aquired a B&S No 2 Light Universal myself. It came with two vertical heads. One is just like yours including the #30 cam lock. It came with one tool, a 3/4" end mill holder. The other vertcal head mounts on the overarms and uses a keyed driveshaft. This head can be moved out away from the main casting and has a #7 B&S taper. Did I mention that this head is in really good shape, hardly any dings in the paint, and the grease zerks look new..... could it be that this head was never used... NICE! :D

I will start a new thread on my mill this weekend with more pics and info. Until then, this will hold you over.

ME
 

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One is just like yours including the #30 cam lock. It came with one tool, a 3/4" end mill holder.

OK, Mr. Edwards, your job is to carefully measure that #30 cam lock EM holder :D. I'm sure that I can figure out the dimensions - though I'd rather have some measurements to work from!
 
OK, Mr. Edwards, your job is to carefully measure that #30 cam lock EM holder :D.

It's on my to-do list this weekend. I agree with Scott, a CAT30 with a grove ground into it is probably the way to go. I do find it interesting that the grove is not a true radius, but a radius that transitions to an angled flat. If I had to guess, I think the radius closely matches the cam in the spindle. And the flat surface in the tools groove is where the important point of contact is for pulling the tool into the spindle. I will know more after I check it out.

You might be able to rough out the slot with a carbide endmill, the finish grind on the surface grinder.

Stay tuned.


ME
 
Ok Aaron, here you go. After looking at machine tool taper dims, I would start with a CAT30. The groove in the tool is not a true radius. Looks to me like the way to do it is to dress a radius on the grinding wheel that matches the groove. Then, dress off the corner of the grinding wheel to the proper angle. Hopefully the notes in the pics are clear enough to read.

ME
 

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Mr. Edwards.. thank you very much. I think that I can work it out. I will draw the action of the cam up in cad to see how it all fits together. My grinder isn't usable - in fact, a large part of it isn't even here :). When it gets here it's going to be a long time before it's running. I will need to mill the slot in some fashion - or have it made.

I did get a chance to work with the double swivel head this evening. I finished cleaning the outside as it was really dirty with 50 odd years of grease and dirt. That completed, I offered it up to the machine - it slid on a short distance - and got stuck quite some distance from the column.
After a bit of head scratching I carefully cleaned the outside of the machine's spindle which fit in a recess in the head's drive gear. I also cleaned the recess in the drive gear. I offered up the head again - and it still got stuck.
Very careful looking at the spindle shows that at some point in time someone had tried a little experiment with friction welding :eek: and had built up a number of misshaped blobs on the outside at the very end of the spindle. The table shows some circular scuff marks below its back edge, too. Now I know how they got there.
Some of these blobs of friction welded material were almost 3 thou proud of the spindle. Careful work removed these blobs and regained the spindle's correct dimensions. Fitting the head again it slid home with the kind of feel that says "it's a perfect fit" (it's hard to describe that feel in words).

I ran the head up through the allowable speeds. It seems to work fairly well, there's no noticible bearing noise though the spiral bevel gears are a little noisy at high speeds, say over 800 machine RPM. (The machine's straight cut spur gear transmission is much noisier.) At the highest allowed speed - 1200 machine RPM - the spindle bearings get warm quickly and began oozing grease at a pretty good rate. I only ran at 1200 machine RPM for perhaps 10 seconds, which got the bearings noticibly warm. We shall see what comes of this.
 
fc 30 tooling

This past week I received a Brown & Sharpe No. 0 Universal Milling Attachment for my #2 "Light" mill. This is a double swivel milling attachment with a 2:1 step-up in the drive. It appears to be in pretty good shape, and the spindle & gears turn nicely. I haven't mounted it yet.
I also got a spare arbor support, and even the attachment crane to swing the milling attchment into place.
Some pictures: (All are clickable thumbnails)

The hex key is used to turn a cam inside the spindle for tool retention. It looks just like a big camlock as found on the D1- series of lathe spindles.

The reason for retaining the tool in that fashion is easy to see from this end. There's no drawbar, and no easy way for B&S to have provided one.

The attachment crane & roller clevis for swinging it into place. There's a pad on the right side of machine column to store the attachment. I will have to find a new place to mount the DRO counter, as I built a little swivel that uses the attachment crane's mount. My mill's original arbor support is mounted and the new one is on the table. It's a little hammered though it should work OK. The arbor supports are aluminum castings on this machine, by the way.

I hear you asking, "Aaron that's great, but what about the driver that fits into the spindle to power the silly thing?" Well, I was worried about that too, after reading the stories of the K&T attachments missing the critial driver, and the troubles with determining exactly the helical gear specs to replace it.
Turns out, B&S had a different idea. There is no driver that gets put in the spindle. Instead, there's a pair of straight cut spur gears inside the attachment, facing the machine's column. One of these gears accepts the spindle drive keys, which provides the drive to the attachment.

The driven gear is clearly smaller, though not half as big as would be needed to acheive the 2:1 increase at this stage. Presumably the bevel gears inside the swivels add to the ratio as well. The stated top speed of the attachment is 2700 RPM output, equating to 1350 RPM in. I don't recall the spindle speeds of the machine exactly though I believe 1350 is about 1 gear down from the top speed of 1500 RPM. This would give 15 possible speeds, top gear on the machine being above the rated output speed.

Looking into the spindle. The cam lock can be seen at the top, in the unlocked position. In the "neck" of the NMTB 30 taper is a spring, presumably to push the tool out when the cam lock is released.
The B&S #2 manual that I have, thanks to Jonny V, states that the spindle has a No. 30 taper and a Browne & Sharpe Cam Lock Construction (that's really what the manual says). A #9 B&S taper was optional, and clearly not what I have. I've never seen a Brown & Sharpe Cam Lock retaining system tool before, and I received no spindle tooling whatsoever. I have been unable to find any reference or drawings of what the cam lock arrangement on the tools should look like.

Any input here would be appreciated, if someone has a drawing of the tooling or even an actual tool, please let me know!

I seem to recall that some South Bend mills used a cam lock retaining system as well. I believe I have seen pictures of this, and I recall that it uses two locking devices which are positioned differently. I looked around the South Bend forum quickly but did not find the pictures I was looking for.

I plan to clean this up, probably involving disassembly to clean out the old grease & reservice the bearings and gears. I'll try to take pictures of this, when I get to working on it, and update this thread.

Now I just need to find a slotter, and a powered rotary table for the machine. I expect the rack cutting attachment may be scarcer than the proverbial hen's teeth, though!

Thanks for taking time to check in.
--
Aaron


Aaron
be patient. I have found quite a bit of tooling for my #2 universal with a NMTB 40 horizontal and the flash change 30 vertical head. it has taken me a year but I have most everything I need? Some from a guy here on Practical Machinist and the rest from ebay auction. You have to act quick on ebay or you will miss it. If you have any question PM me?
thanks
jesse
 








 
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