Kearney andTrecker Std Hi Speed Drive Bracket
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  1. #1
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    Cool Kearney andTrecker Std Hi Speed Drive Bracket

    Hello everyone:
    Picked up a drive bracket for my 2h recently and am in the process of repairing it as someone had installed it with chips I suppose in the gear path...

    The bracket was cracked and someone had welded it with nickel so I ground it out and brazed it. You can see on the gear where something impacted the top of a tooth..

    Notice also the spacer disc which is used on the driven and drive gear to insure proper gear tooth running clearance...

    Ramsay 1
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails braze-std-hi-speed.jpg   dsc00005.jpg   gear-nick.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by ramsay1 View Post
    Notice also the spacer disc which is used on the driven and drive gear to insure proper gear tooth running clearance...
    Ah!! With picture, I think I finally understand. The thin disk at the back of this gear is supposed to meet up "tire face to tire face" with another thin disk on the front of the drive gear mounted in the spindle. The diameters of the disks is set so that the gears mesh correctly rather than too much or too little. Is that correct?

    Ingenious!

    Thank you for the pictures.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Timbosama View Post
    Ah!! With picture, I think I finally understand. The thin disk at the back of this gear is supposed to meet up "tire face to tire face" with another thin disk on the front of the drive gear mounted in the spindle. The diameters of the disks is set so that the gears mesh correctly rather than too much or too little. Is that correct?

    Ingenious!

    Thank you for the pictures.
    Yes.. The discs are machined to the pitch circle hence correct gear tooth engagement.. The drive bracket is not doweled to the machine except on the overarms and they can be extended or retracted so unlike the other types of heads and drive brackets, it is necessary to have these discs.. Trust me, the discs are not put in there to make it difficult to install the bracket..It is simple.. Just retract the overarms flush with the column then install the drive bracket.. After the gears are in alignment, then push the overarms into the pockets on the head assembly, tighten two nuts on same, and tighten drive bracket to column...Ramsay 1k-t-pictures-061.jpg

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    Hi Ramsay1. I have one of these set ups, vertical head for a 2K and intend to use it on my 3CH. Being the knowledgeable guy you are, can you tell some of the pros and cons of this set up vrs the cutting head that attaches directly to the column? Also some photos of the drive shaft and the cutting head that attaches to the over arms might help me get a better grip on how it works. My unit is also broken like yours was except that the piece is actually broken off the casting. I sure appreciate the the time that you spend here and the post you make. Thanks Tim

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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by timvercoe View Post
    Hi Ramsay1. I have one of these set ups, vertical head for a 2K and intend to use it on my 3CH. Being the knowledgeable guy you are, can you tell some of the pros and cons of this set up vrs the cutting head that attaches directly to the column? Also some photos of the drive shaft and the cutting head that attaches to the over arms might help me get a better grip on how it works. My unit is also broken like yours was except that the piece is actually broken off the casting. I sure appreciate the the time that you spend here and the post you make. Thanks Tim
    Hello: The std hi speed head is not quite as rigid as a universal which attaches directly to the column and overarms but the std hi speed is more versatile as you can move away from the column with the cutter head...I guess it is a trade off rigidity vs versatility...

    Another thing you have to consider is that you cannot just attach the std hi speed unit to the overarms and retract the overarms to mount the unit... The spacer discs on the drive and driven gear will not allow meshing of the drive gears.. You have to put the unit on with the overarms retracted flush with the column so that the unit may be lifted over the spacer discs then lowered into mesh.. I would imagine that is how some units have been damaged along with people letting swarf enter the gear pocket and being run after...

    Here is a book which will show the unit in an exploded view and also groups drive brackets and cutter heads by application:

    Kearney & Trecker Co. - Publication Reprints - K&T Replacement Parts Manual for Milling Head & Accessories | VintageMachinery.org

    angle-milling.jpg

    Would love some pix of what you have!

    Ramsay 1
    Last edited by ramsay1; 06-05-2016 at 11:09 AM.

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    Thanks for the link. I am downloading it now. My shop used to be in a scrap yd. One day I was over discussing something with the landlord and a guy came in with a couple pallets of horizontal cutters and arbors and a huge overarm support. I went back later and bought the stuff. So I started looking for a horizontal machine. I was at my favorite used machinery dealer in Las Vegas and they had two a KT's model K and a 10hp 3ch. The K had the vertical cutting attachment on it. both machines had been left out in the weather and if not mistaken had come from New Orleans. I found some over arm supports and a dividing head in the back room. Also brought home two turret lathes, gisholt #5 and a warner swazy #4. About this time my wifey had had about enough. The 3CH was in better shape than the K and I started fixing stuff. The Y axis lead screw (Purist definition) up and down, and nut were destroyed. So years later I am still assembling and repairing. Working on the side cover with drive motor. Motor shaft needs bearing surface repaired, and shaft that drives oil pump needs turned down and sleeve installed. I used the rear controls from the 2K on the 3ch when I reassembled the main part of the knee. I was looking in the electrical box a few weeks ago and see that there are some fuses and holder missing for the control circuit. At the rate I am going it will be at least a few more months before I am ready to rock and roll. I've had good excuses for not posting pictures,(right?) lazy and new technology scares me. (I am embarking into the world of CNC slowly) Thanks for the interest. And the posts! Tim

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    Mine was cracked in exactly the same place. It hardly matters, as the inner and outer plates that bolt to the bracket keep it rigid enough. I welded mine with Ni55 and it has held quite well.

    I love the versatility of my U-head. You can set it up at any angle imaginable for getting at almost anything you can mount on the table. I use it frequently, and it hasn't been off the mill since I rebuilt it last year.

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