Leveling Lathe

Ja_cain · Aug 8, 2021

I'm getting ready to finally get this bad buy leveled. Just wondering what everyone is setting their short bed L&S Powerturn (or roughly equivalent) lathes on. I think the manual calls for 6" dia x 1/2" or thicker plate counter bored for the leveling feet. Just wondering if I really need to follow this to a t. Not sure how thick the concrete slab is either.

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texasgeartrain · Aug 8, 2021

My larger lathe has adjusting screws. Rather than buy special feet, I cut steel plates, maybe 1/4" to 3/8" thick, 4"x 4" square to go between adjusters and concrete.

Some machines that I'm not worried will move around, and have no adjusting screws. . . I use steel plates and shims under bases to get level without punching holes in concrete.

Ja_cain · Aug 8, 2021

texasgunsmith said:
My larger lathe has adjusting screws. Rather than buy special feet, I cut steel plates, maybe 1/4" to 3/8" thick, 4"x 4" square to go between adjusters and concrete.

Some machines that I'm not worried will move around, and have no adjusting screws. . . I use steel plates and shims under bases to get level without punching holes in concrete.

I'm thinking the manual recommendations are probably overkill. I'll probably try and make something out of material I have kicking around.

Peroni · Aug 8, 2021

My 6000lb Hendey has 8 adjusting screws. Had a random rusty piece of 4" round mystery steel and cut pads 9/16 thick. Just faced each side and made a shallow c'bore for end of the screw to go into and they worked out great. I did 9/16 so I could still have a full 1/2 thick under the screw. Likely doesn't matter at all but I had the material so...

hvnlymachining · Aug 8, 2021

We have 21 machines ranging from 1k -25k lbs, all of them sit on steel plates with rubber belting under a steel plate to mitigate vibration. No counter bores, never had one walk off either. This setup has been working great for years. To answer a question in advance, no I don't have to re level often or under a heavy load, I have checked this with a Bullard precision level a few times. If you don't plan on turning heavy parts chucked off center it should be fine.

Ja_cain · Aug 31, 2021

Before I go and spend some money on steel, I was kicking around the idea of using discs cut from this aluminum I found. Was wondering if that might be sufficient if I make them thick enough. Maybe 1" with an 1/8" deep counter bore?

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4GSR · Aug 31, 2021

Aluminum should work fine. But before I'd use that aluminum find something else and save the aluminum for a money making project IMO.

M.B. Naegle · Aug 31, 2021

I've made lots of leveling pads, but in our case we had lots of 1" thick 3" to 4" round CRS steel drops on hand that were cut undersized for a job. All I do is face each side and then use a 3/4" or 1" drill to put a dimple in the middle. Most of the machines that got them already had leveling screws, but the pads disappeared over the years. If they don't have leveling screws, I'll either used sheet metal squares to shim-level them, or make a sub plate with leveling screws. However you do it, just keep in mind that creating voids, pockets, or other spaces under the machine will naturally fill with junk. The closer to the ground and the less sticking out from the sides, the better, IMO.

Ja_cain · Aug 31, 2021

4GSR said:
Aluminum should work fine. But before I'd use that aluminum find something else and save the aluminum for a money making project IMO.

Good point. I have a piece 2+" steel too. Might just use that.

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Ja_cain · Aug 31, 2021

M.B. Naegle said:
I've made lots of leveling pads, but in our case we had lots of 1" thick 3" to 4" round CRS steel drops on hand that were cut undersized for a job. All I do is face each side and then use a 3/4" or 1" drill to put a dimple in the middle. Most of the machines that got them already had leveling screws, but the pads disappeared over the years. If they don't have leveling screws, I'll either used sheet metal squares to shim-level them, or make a sub plate with leveling screws. However you do it, just keep in mind that creating voids, pockets, or other spaces under the machine will naturally fill with junk. The closer to the ground and the less sticking out from the sides, the better, IMO.

All leveling screws are there and intact. I also have a piece of 2+" steel round stock. I might just try that first.

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rpseguin · Aug 31, 2021

Ja_cain said:
I'm getting ready to finally get this bad buy leveled. Just wondering what everyone is setting their short bed L&S Powerturn (or roughly equivalent) lathes on. I think the manual calls for 6" dia x 1/2" or thicker plate counter bored for the leveling feet. Just wondering if I really need to follow this to a t. Not sure how thick the concrete slab is either.

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I just got a Lodge & Shipley AVS 2013 (20.5” swing x 54” centers) and I am looking for 8 leveling pads for it. I called a relatively local steel place to see if they had drops. They didn’t, so I asked them how much it would cost to get qty=8, 6” diameter disks cut out of 3/4” A36 plate. He came back with a figure over $600!
That seemed absurdly high to me.
I miss Sims Metals and being able to browse through their used/remnants/drops!
I haven’t gone to Alan Steel in a while.

From my Large & Shapely manual:

Ja_cain · Aug 31, 2021

rpseguin said:
I just got a Lodge & Shipley AVS 2013 (20.5” swing x 54” centers) and I am looking for 8 leveling pads for it. I called a relatively local steel place to see if they had drops. They didn’t, so I asked them how much it would cost to get qty=8, 6” diameter disks cut out of 3/4” A36 plate. He came back with a figure over $600!
That seemed absurdly high to me.
I miss Sims Metals and being able to browse through their used/remnants/drops!
I haven’t gone to Alan Steel in a while.

From my Large & Shapely manual:

We used to have a Sims here too next to 95. They shut down their resale unit years ago before I had a chance to get in on the resale action. I get the same old response you get when I call the steel places for drops. It's real frustrating. My manual says the same thing for my Powerturn. It think I might just compromise and use some smaller diameter stuff I have on hand. Good luck sourcing some!

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4GSR · Aug 31, 2021

It's funny that you posted that drawing from L & S. Back when I had my 20" L & S Model X lathe, basically the same bed on it as used on the Powerturn lathe. I made pads out of 3-1/4" OD stock and made them about 1-1/4" Long. And like others did, drill dimpled a place for the leveling screws to register on. I thought they were too small in diameter. Apparently not. Not sure I agree about the heat treat, really not needed IMO. Mine were made from some 4145HT material I had on hand. They worked! Ken

Ja_cain · Sep 1, 2021

Found some of this. Might roll with it. Same pics in my manual for the Powerturn.

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Garwood · Sep 1, 2021

Large CNC's with fast rapids will walk across the floor.

I owned a J&L 8A-5 turret lathe for a bit that had a barfeeder w/rotating outboard chuck. It made 3" nuts from 5" 4340 for the 25 years before I got it. PO told me it had to be bolted to the floor. The 5" bar whipping would walk the 6 ton lathe all over if it wasn't.

Before you make screw pads stand in front of the machine. Is it a comfy height?

I'm 6'3" and my manual lathes are both lifted up with 4" riser pads I cut from 5" bar so they are comfy to use. Nothing worse than standing in front of a machine hunched over all day.

Steve in SoCal · Sep 1, 2021

My 11K Monarch 13EE sits on 10- 3 1/2" discs and no problems on a crappy floor. I second the get the height right, the discs on the 13EE are 4" high.

Steve

Ja_cain · Sep 2, 2021

Garwood said:
Large CNC's with fast rapids will walk across the floor.

I owned a J&L 8A-5 turret lathe for a bit that had a barfeeder w/rotating outboard chuck. It made 3" nuts from 5" 4340 for the 25 years before I got it. PO told me it had to be bolted to the floor. The 5" bar whipping would walk the 6 ton lathe all over if it wasn't.

Before you make screw pads stand in front of the machine. Is it a comfy height?

I'm 6'3" and my manual lathes are both lifted up with 4" riser pads I cut from 5" bar so they are comfy to use. Nothing worse than standing in front of a machine hunched over all day.

I'm 5'7" with short legs. Hight seems almost perfect sitting on 2x4.

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