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The Mobilization of L&S 24" Serial No. 19447

Joined
Jan 12, 2020
Location
Bastrop
Howdy Yall,

I have gotten pretty good mileage out of everyone else's posts. Just now getting reliable internet out at the ranch where my job shop and hydraulic repair shop is located. I intend to contribute to the forums, participate as I can.

I am posting a few pics of how my brother (business partner) and I moved a big old lathe, 9979 lbs. of it, courtesy of Mr. Oder, for use in our shop, of which it has become quite useful, busy most days sometimes Sunday. I am hoping perhaps our Sanford and Sons methods may inspire anyone else in their endeavors.

Our initial plan was to put the Lodge and Shipley up on the homemade 6.625" dia wheels, sch 80 3.5" axles, haul it across a public road and winch it up onto the 32ft gooseneck. Plans changed and we rented a (supposedly) 14K gvwr drop deck, necked it right up to the slab. It's limits were pushed on the scrape from Houston and some hydraulic assisted straightening had to be done late in the evening before taking the trailer back to Sunbelt in the wee hours the next morning. Return inspection was a success, more so an oversight.

The whole combination was left bolted to the lathe on the trip home, point loaded the trailer up pretty good I reckon. Tongue weight was iffy even on the F-550. Unloaded the 1917 in a rolling fashion and did a little touching up of it, cosmetically mostly, did the ferrous shuffle and got it in situ, compliments of the New Holland L228 and some clapped Harrington lever hoists. Wheel set is out behind the shop now, up on the rack. Might have a call back to duty someday, call them an accoutrement of old 19447. Was a pleasure meeting Mr. Oder, hosting us two, and giving us an experienced hand in IMG_2444.jpgIMG_2410.jpgIMG_2393.jpgIMG_2389.jpgIMG_2386.jpggetting 19447 loaded up.
 
The wheels are shop made. 8.625” API casing .38” wall bout 40lb/ft. Band sawed 6.5” lengths. Hand torched eight 3/8” A36 donuts about 7.725” dia ID. inner cut 4.5” dia. Circle. Stuck 7.25” long sch 40 4.5” tube through donuts. Welded donuts parallel then press fit resulting “spools” into ID of 8.625” API casing. Circumferential welded spools to API case. Got two 4ft lengths 3.5” OD .375” wall drill string. Drilled grease holes in middle of 4.5” tube contact area. Tapped 1/4-28. Installed 90deg zerks inside 3.5” OD axle tube facing outward to ends. Slipped wheels over 3.5”axle pipes. Took 1” long drops of the 4.5” wheel inner pipe and halve the circumferentially. Welded a half up on top of 3.5” axle tube to serve as a wheel retainer. Welded associated 3x3x5/16” angle predrilled (1/8” oversized for wiggle room) to L&S footer bolt pattern to the axle tubes at 24” Inside to Inside. Gussets welded. Front axle is steerable. 22”x8”x1/2” plate welded to axle tube. 1.25” hole drilled on center width wise but set back behind axle center to keep it from breaking over if it hit a slight bump. Top swivel plate is 24”x8”x1/2” plate also drill same. Drilled for two zerks either side of pivot. Welded 1.25” ID .25” wall steel bushing 1” tall both sides of pivot. Ran a 1.25” grade 8 bolt up through and torqued till just giving resistance to turning. Greased up the wheels and swivel.

They roll really well. Didn’t mar any concrete when rolling in town and handled off road quite well. I actualed pull it on the wheels roughly 3/4 of a mile across a pasture to its final resting place as the sunbelt trailer was so screwed up it was no up the the trek across our private road so I unloaded it at the nearest improved surface. It has a tongue on it which I used truck to pull it across pasture over to the shop building. A couple days later I used the wheel set to move a K&T 4H from one building to the new one that houses L&S. Another advantage to the pipe axle is that a 3/8 chain with its hook can be ran through and used to tie the lathe down to the trailer. Just had to watch the internal zerk fittings when feeding the chain.
 
If for some reason you come near Austin area regularly you’re welcome to use them and return later

I'm 35 miles northwest of Columbus Ohio so not much chance I'll be in Austin in the near future. I have some surplus 6" 8620 bar, I was thinking I would just slice off some 2" thick pucks and bore a hole for the axle.
 
Yessir

I believe it’ll work good. At 6.5” wide, mine might’ve been over kill but they really left no trace on dry dirt concrete or asphalt. The thought on going wider on the tread was if it had to be slid straight sideways the wheel width would help bridge any surface imperfections. Ended up needing to do so on multiple occasion. And worked very well. Of course wheel edges were slightly beveled. For this reason too. Another obstacle we ran into, nearing the shop was a wet area that was unavoidable on our wagon train across the pasture. What was done was we laid down two 32ft joints of well tube 3.5” dia. (Same stuff as axle) And drug the axle pipe edge interior of the wheels along these “rails” kept the wheels from sinking into the saturated soil. Also having a hollow axle allows you to telescope pipe out the side like outriggers when getting up on angles where otherwise lathe would show you its belly. With 10ft piece of 2.375” OD sch 120 sticking way out After removing the 4 internal wheel zerk fittings we were able to boogie across a hillside at about a 7* tilt. Don’t know we could’ve tipped it if we tried.
 
I'm 35 miles northwest of Columbus Ohio so not much chance I'll be in Austin in the near future. I have some surplus 6" 8620 bar, I was thinking I would just slice off some 2" thick pucks and bore a hole for the axle.

Going out on a limb here.....
May I suggest; turn your 8620 clean for easy rolling fit and flange in heavy wall tubing as 'tires'.
Bore the 'wheels' way off center for gusseted connection to heavier flat bar turned round 'axles'. Lower lift height and CG.
Side axle under machine, lift that into hole of wheel each side. One end up on a toe jack does enough without interfering. It helps to have axle tie rod heavy [or arc] enough to lessen flex.
 








 
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