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Thread: Moore Jig borer

  1. #21
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    It sounds like you drained it. I think you are talking about the small Boston gearmotor at the top of the machine.

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    I think you are right about it being the gear motor. What oil should be in there? And why would there be water. The machine appears to be in great shape and doesn't look like it could have ever been outside in the rain. Condensation? Isn't this what the manual says to add liquid grease to every two years? Thanks for your help.

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    My #2 had got some moisture in the top with bad result on several of the bearings on the two main variable speed shafts. the bearings are the extended race type, a real pain. There are two drive variations on the Moore #2, I have the unimproved first version.
    Might be of interest, the variable speed drive is made by the company that also made the Rivett 1020 drive. The company name is in the Rivett manual.
    I would think a little automotive gear oil would be fine for the Boston gear motors gear case, mine also has an oil hole for the motor, I use a drop of spindle oil every time I have to climb up there.

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    It is my understanding that the motor that adjusts the reeves pulleys uses 600w gear oil good for yellow metal. I got some from Ecklers- Model A gear oil. Stuff is really thick. I haven't drained mine yet or replaced so I'm interested if that is correct before I do it. The weight of the cover and lack of friends is slowing me down.

    I'm also interested in the drive variations and when they occurred. My # is 5189 which may be an early version too. The proper belts are 2930 and 48" long. Those are only available in a longer size (492). 2926 have more choices and are on my machine. Seems to work except for less high range. Dave

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    I believe the manual, I actually bough it from Moore may show the change in serial #,but the modern drive does not have the single grease fitting, and pumping a quart of grease into the head until it comes out the other fitting.
    The newer drive has a few fittings at the top and on the main VS shafts. also the drawing shows a doubling up of bearings on the 2 upper VS shaft locations. and the bearings appear to be standard, instead of the fun New Departure bearings with either extended or recessed races, you will be treated like the plague at most bearing outlets.

    Most interesting spindle bearing facts,

    You can not simply replace the spindle bearings, the glaring reason is- The original MRC Gurney precision bearings have one less ball then available replacements, and since the nose pair of 62mm grade 9 angular contact bearings are under 2 times factory heavy preload of 125lbs to a whopping 250lbs. The tail pair of bearings preload is somewhat less but more then factory heavy preload. Preload is controlled by the spacer lengths between the bearing pairs. just installing replacement bearings will result in too high of preload due to the less flex of modern bearings, smaller and more balls thicker races, a costly mistake.
    Read that a time or so, then we move on.


    The bearing companies, even manufacturers will say, don't do it we cant help, there are no formulas for preloads Moore can help you at around $4000-20years ago!
    This is it, you have to statically load each bearing in a precision fixture you have made, and measure the deflection of the inner race, transfer that to the spacer lengths to establish the Moore proper preload.
    How do they get away loading a bearing like that?
    Simple answer is the Moore spindle parts are as accurately made as the Barden grade 9 replacement bearings that they use for good reason also.

    I encourage owners to at least buy the manual from the company, some wipers, its wise to establish a relationship if you have the machine.

    Oh, those belts, the Rivett lathes original VS belts were the same as Moore, not in length but edge angle and construction. The original belts are thick, soft and have ribs across.
    The replacements are stiff thinner, proper edge angle and length, really hard to install, and say Moore Money right on them, not done yet, the two final drive V belts are special also says Moore Money on them. I remember paying around $650 for the four belts, but, the machine runs glass smooth, very important for good finish.
    Its nice to see interest in the machines.

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    The manual says to fill the gear motor until it runs out of the plug hole. The left side plug I removed seems to be the drain plug. I can't find a higher plug that you fill to or do you fill until it's visible at the top filler plug. I'm hoping the water hasn't caused a problem (how could it not have)

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    So, I put 600w gear oil in the gear motor until it filled and nothing came out the side plug that had water in it. Am I missing something? My cover doesn't easily come off due to my low ceiling, so maybe I didn't see all the plugs. Not sure what the side plug that had water in it is for. Hope I haven't hurt anything. Any thoughts appreciated. The Moore is a great addition to the shop.

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    Moore told me the original Reeves belts are no longer available. The new part is 2930v492 but that belt is longer than the original. Sounds like I got very lucky that my spindle seems to run smooth and cool. I won't utilize the high precision available but my .001 dial didn't move at all. My head has the single fitting. I've been pumping grease into it every day and still nothing out the drain fitting so needing a quart makes sense.

    The splined shaft is the only source of noise. I have put a little grease on the shaft and a few drops of oil on the bushing from above that helped. Is there a way to lubricate that better? I don't see fittings but again, hard to tell with the cover on. I would think the lubrication points would be accessible without removing anything. The sleeves that cover the splined shaft are not secured to the head anymore but it makes the shaft easier to get to so I leave it alone. Dave

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    Quote Originally Posted by donie View Post
    Its nice to see interest in the machines.
    Agreed! I wish we could have a single brand forum for them on this site.

    For what it's worth, I have a NOS main drive belt for a No. 3 that I plan to put on eBay soon.

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    What size does the #3 take? The earlier #2 took 5L 900 and later went to 5L 940 according to my notes from Moore but they didn't send me the #3 info. Dave

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    I only have the Moore numbers from the belt, which are 980–2197. It’s 1.77” wide!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    I'm assuming Moore went to a single belt vs the two 5L on the #2. I think gates made belts for Moore. My Gates 2930 reference came directly from Gates but they didn't specify what length Moore used originally. I wonder if you sent the Moore # to Gates, if they could give a replacement #. Dave

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    I think I ,have been reading my manual wrong. Seems as if you're supposed to oil the motor and oil the worm gear housing, two different lube places. The water must have been in the worm gear housing which is drained by the side plug. But I didn't get much new oil in there because it kept draining out. Couldn't find any other way to fill the gear housing. The manual says to use liquid grease. Maybe you have to pump it in.

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    Another tip from Moore, and me!
    When the machine is to be parked for a time, run the machine to mid speed, and leave it there. This will place the VS belt at mid position on the pulleys reducing kinking and set. The machine will smooth out faster.
    Also, daily is best, manually rotate the spindle by hand to keep a lube film on the bearings and races. The bearings being under tremendous preload, pushes the lube film away, and the balls dent the races from normal shop vibration. That's right Mildew, research it yourself.
    I am amazed this subject has gone as far as it has, without interruption from the bully!

    15 yrs ago, I demonstrated a paying job, repairing the crankcase on a celebrity owned Harley Davidson K Model right here on this forum using the Moore jigbore. I still have the photos, of the motor, not the asswipe celebrity!

    One moore thing, the spindle bearings have the special heavy pre-load so- ability to use longer bars, reduce tool deflection. And, designed for single point cutting.
    Often when useing endmills side loading the spindle, a bad harmonic vibration can develop. However it will plunge an end mill straight in.
    The machine is not a very good mill, it does fly cut very nice. The spindle has no lock! The only way to fix the quill in a position other then all the way in is jam the feed gears against the quill stop snail.
    The machine handles Wolhaupter, Tree, and other exotic heads much better the a standard vert mill.

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    I'm still confused about lubing the Moore. Guess I'm thick. I pulled my cover off again to look for any other plugs- found only the two that I mentioned, the left side one that had water in it and the one at the top with the gear that the Boston motor turns. This upper one had a label that said oil fill. I filled this Boston gear housing. Nothing comes out of the left side plug. Is the left side plug just a drain for water etc or should it have oil in it? If it needs oil in it, how do you fill it? I tried pumping oil into it and it just runs out.

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    According to my maintenance manual, the top plug gets the heavy gear oil to the level of the left side plug. I don't know how much that takes. I do know the grease fitting on the bottom for the Reeves must take a lot of grease as I've been pumping 5-10 strokes a day for a week and it still doesn't come out the fitting. Dave

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    That's what I read too. But I filled the top plug which doesn't put any oil in the lower side plug. That's why i'm confused and baffled by the manual. Unless my upper plug area is really plugged so the oil can't go down to the lower side plug. Also if oil did go to the lower plug area the upper plug area would empty out so the gear up there wouldn't have any oil left. Seems as if these are two unconnected areas. Don't know if i'm clear with what i'm saying. Maybe the lower plug area is only suppose to have a little bit of oil in there. Also don't know why I had 1/2 pint or more of water in there, condensation? I just worry about running it without lubbing it right. Maybe i' m blind or just plain thick. Thanks for all your input, Keith

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    Maybe I'll take my top off this weekend and see what I have. My Mac's gear oil is like Molasses but I don't know what the consistency of the original stuff was. Could you squirt a a little air into the drain side and see if the oil bubbles back out the top? Seems like the two should be connected. If it was stopped up for a long time that might account for the water. Dave

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    I had done that in reverse, blowing from top down- nothing came out. Looking forward to you pulling your top this weekend, and thanks. Keith

  22. #40
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    I think any thick oil will be fine, the Boston gearmotors are very durable anyway, could also check the Rivett 1020 manual.


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