stoneaxe
Stainless
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2010
- Location
- pacific northwest
These are basic mill questions perhaps best addressed in the general forum, but as a lot of smart manual machinists are here, and I am using a VN12, here is where I will post it.
I am not a machinist, just an old woodbutcher learning new tricks.
In woodworking, one of the basic steps to ensure repeatable accuracy is the use of mechanical stops to butt the part to. I am needing an education on accurate setup and locating features that need to be machined.
Imagine a rectangular block 1" thick, 2" wide, and 4" long. It has a through hole 1/2" in from the end, and 1/2" in from the side. For the sake of the discussion, assume we cannot bore through, but have to turn the part over to locate the drill hole on the other side. The vise will provide a reference (stop) in one axis when the part is flipped, but the other axis will need to be relocated, ie, any stop set up to drill a hole 1/2" from an end will now need to be set up to drill a hole 3 1/2" from the end.
So the hole center will need to be located again,on the flipped side of the part, at least in one axis.
When using a manual mill with no dro, is layout fluid and a sharp scribe and punch the best way to do this, followed by a center finder of some sort?
It seems like errors could add up doing this, especially when drilling from opposite sides and needing axial alignment.
Next topic- OK, that hole got drilled OK- now we need another one, 1.28" away on the z and .325" on the y. Is it best to simply zero out the mill dials and then dial in the movement necessary on the z and y ? or would it be best to lay it out with a scribe and punch it, then center the bit over the mark?
I realize every setup is different and this is where a lot of experience is gained- are there any particular tricks you use, especially pertaining to the Van Norman?
I am not a machinist, just an old woodbutcher learning new tricks.
In woodworking, one of the basic steps to ensure repeatable accuracy is the use of mechanical stops to butt the part to. I am needing an education on accurate setup and locating features that need to be machined.
Imagine a rectangular block 1" thick, 2" wide, and 4" long. It has a through hole 1/2" in from the end, and 1/2" in from the side. For the sake of the discussion, assume we cannot bore through, but have to turn the part over to locate the drill hole on the other side. The vise will provide a reference (stop) in one axis when the part is flipped, but the other axis will need to be relocated, ie, any stop set up to drill a hole 1/2" from an end will now need to be set up to drill a hole 3 1/2" from the end.
So the hole center will need to be located again,on the flipped side of the part, at least in one axis.
When using a manual mill with no dro, is layout fluid and a sharp scribe and punch the best way to do this, followed by a center finder of some sort?
It seems like errors could add up doing this, especially when drilling from opposite sides and needing axial alignment.
Next topic- OK, that hole got drilled OK- now we need another one, 1.28" away on the z and .325" on the y. Is it best to simply zero out the mill dials and then dial in the movement necessary on the z and y ? or would it be best to lay it out with a scribe and punch it, then center the bit over the mark?
I realize every setup is different and this is where a lot of experience is gained- are there any particular tricks you use, especially pertaining to the Van Norman?