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  1. #21
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    Made a little more progress with the Autometric. I made a spindle nut that adapts a Marlin PDQ "S" size quick change to the spindle:



    I figured that this would be a lot easier than trying to find a dozen old 40 NSF toolholders, or making them. (Yes, my knurling sucks but so does using a pressure knurl on 1045, and I need to drill more holes for the pin spanner). I still need to make new lugs to drive the 40 NMTB flange.

    Guess this mill didn't get a lot of use after someone converted it to 240 from 480 - the heaters were more appropriate for 480 than 240 and would trip the overload after about 20 minutes idling. Appropriately sized heaters are on the way.

    Next on the agenda is to find an appropriately sized angle plate. The original looked like this:



    If anyone has a line on one let me know, I'd love to have an original. In the meantime I'll be looking for one about 16w by 12h and 8-10" deep, I think that's pretty close to the original dimensions.

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  3. #22
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    I would like a scans of this parts manual as a friend just got one

  4. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hwwwright View Post
    I would like a scans of this parts manual as a friend just got one
    Which model does he have? The round way or the kinematic way? Also I would need an email address to send it to.

  5. #24
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    Found that the gearbox didn't like one speed so set to take it out. Loads of fun as it's connected at something like 6 places, some pretty much inaccessible unless the whole machine is up in the air. Manage to get everything out, found the gearbox was mis-timed by whoever was in there before (no neutral and the one speed range that gave a nasty "grinding gears" sound), fixed it by picking what seemed to be a good neutral position and resetting the selector. I have gearbox pictures if anyone's interested.

    I did find one example of damage I have to repair - the spindle power input comes in from the side and has a largish sheave that drives a shaft through some bearing supports to a keyed input on the gearbox (all the others are splined). The part driving the keyed input was split, here are a couple of pics:

    20210720_122953_compress6.jpg

    Broken at the side of the keyway. Not really surprised, there's a 3/4 hole with a 3/16 keyway on the end of a 1.125" shaft. This shaft goes through the sheave:

    20210720_123013_compress77.jpg

    Here's the parts drawing detail:

    spindle_input_detail.jpg

    Now, the odd thing is that the Autometric has a gearbox with a "fine speed adjust" that uses a Reeves type mechanism to change the speed of the motor going into the gearbox. The drawing in the parts list shows a wide belt sheave, mine has a 2 belt sheave on both ends. The motor housing seems to have had a variable speed pulley as the cover had an amazing amount of baked on crap. So at some point this guy had the variable speed system deleted and one or both sheaves were replaced. The 2 belt sheave sure has the right outline for the original part (and it has an odd offset), and the broken bit had the right part number on it, so I'm fairly sure that K&T was involved in the replacement - or my understanding of the variable speed system is way off and it started with the 2 belt system.
    Last edited by rke[pler; 07-21-2021 at 11:38 AM. Reason: added drawing detail

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  7. #25
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    Russ, do you still need a picture of the wiring on the control panel? Haven't been to the storage place where my Autometric sits for awhile, but can go today and take pics if you need it.



    Quote Originally Posted by Hwwwright View Post
    I would like a scans of this parts manual as a friend just got one

    I scanned the whole manual and emailed it to another PM member, so I should still have it. Send me an email to send it to. Mine the later model with the V-ways, so keep that in mind.

  8. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spud View Post
    Russ, do you still need a picture of the wiring on the control panel? Haven't been to the storage place where my Autometric sits for awhile, but can go today and take pics if you need it.
    Sure, if you have the time, it'd save me much tracing of the coolant switch wiring.

    I'd also really appreciate anything you can get of the variable speed system on the motor and spindle input - that's in the back inside the lower door. A shot of the adjustable sheaves and a shot down the belt to the other end would eb greatly appreciate as well as any ID information you might find on the adjustable bit.

  9. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by rke[pler View Post
    Found that the gearbox didn't like one speed so set to take it out. Loads of fun as it's connected at something like 6 places, some pretty much inaccessible unless the whole machine is up in the air. Manage to get everything out, found the gearbox was mis-timed by whoever was in there before (no neutral and the one speed range that gave a nasty "grinding gears" sound), fixed it by picking what seemed to be a good neutral position and resetting the selector. I have gearbox pictures if anyone's interested.
    I don't have this machine, but I'd be curious to see those pics and the selector.

  10. #28
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    The Autometric gearbox is pretty neat. Complete with variable feed and oiling in a decent package. Here's the front:

    20210721_163118_resize_90.jpg

    Dials on the left are for the primary gearing change on the outside with a neutral stop at the top. There are 6 speeds selectable and the center handle (mine is just a knob) adjusts a variable speed pulley (missing on mine) to handle the speed range between the selectable speeds.

    Right dial is the feed selection, 8 different feeds selectable.

    Back side of the gearbox:

    20210716_105911_resize_95.jpg

    The bent bar on the bottom is the selector support the the cam gear handling shifting behind it. Above the cam is an idler gear and the small gear above it is the end of the selector dial described above.

    My 'fix' was to set the selector dial to a good neutral position (looking at the gears) and then to remove the idler gear, rotate the selector to the top (neutral) position and replacing the idler gear. After that we went through all the gear and made sure that the gears selected all meshed well.

    Here's part of the gearbox:

    20210716_105934_resize_14.jpg

    and here is the feed gearbox (some of it, anyway):

    20210716_110013_resize_42.jpg

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  12. #29
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    Man that is a nice gearbox. Looks pretty complex too.

    I've not used a jig borer, but looks like could have some interesting uses.

    Was reading up on it a little, watching some vids and such and found a version looks a bit older than yours on ebay for what looks like a nice price:
    Kearney & Trekker AUTOMETRIC MACHINE TOOL CO JIG BORER Lathe Moore | eBay

    387.jpg 388.jpg

    According to the listing, it was previously the fella's from youtube channel oxtool:
    Autometric Handwheel repair Part 1 - YouTube

  13. #30
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    That's the Meyer Autometric. K&T bought the rights to it then (apparently) redesigned everything into the Model B.

  14. #31
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    Thumbnails. Click for larger picture.

    Not sure if this is of any help as the wires aren't labelled






    Rear of machine, motor & sheeve







    View through the Electrical cabinet , back of main column

















    tag on front of machine


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  16. #32
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    Thanks for the photos, they're a big help.

    That's the first time I saw that the variable speed is a Roto-Cone. Any idea on the size or model number? I'm still thinking on replacing the 2 belt drive on mine with the "original" variable speed assembly.

  17. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by rke[pler View Post
    Thanks for the photos, they're a big help.

    That's the first time I saw that the variable speed is a Roto-Cone. Any idea on the size or model number? I'm still thinking on replacing the 2 belt drive on mine with the "original" variable speed assembly.

    Russ, do you need me to draw a schematic of the control panel, because all those black wires are confusing on where they go?

    I'll head over to the warehouse in the next day or 2 and take a look at the roto-cone again, but I don't recall there being any numbers on it.

    Here's a larger picture







    Far as I know this machine was in working condition when it was disconnected, because the shop closed or moved or something. There were chips on the machine , and one of the employees said it was running before they decided to dispose of several of their machines.

  18. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spud View Post
    Russ, do you need me to draw a schematic of the control panel, because all those black wires are confusing on where they go?
    I don't think it would help that much - our panels are different in the coolant controls. Mine has a single on/off and yours looks to be setup with a start/release (sorry, don't know the electrical term for a button that releases the contactor's hold). I'll just have to trace the wires and figure out what they would have done. One problem with my Autometric is that someone in the past pulled all the electricals and moved them to an external box, then hung the box in the way on the back of where they used to be. PITA to get around that.

    As for the Roto-Cone, I think I might be able to find it from the diameter - it looks to be a little bigger in diameter than the motor and I think I have the same motor.

  19. #35
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    Best I can tell is't a Roto-Cone RC75 taking a 1922V belt or perhaps an RC-80 taking a 2322V belt. I found a companion pulley that looked right (it fit the turned-off portion of the oddball input system on the Autometric, so I replaced the 2 sheave pulley mine had (heated and pressed off the old one, put on new one with .002 interference with heat). Made a motor spindle shaft extender after finding old spindle had been turned down from .875 to .860 (likely to eliminate damage?) and one of the taper locking sheaves fitted. It looked right but took a 2322V belt instead of a 1922V, oh well. Found a used RC-75, refurbed it (old grease was more glue) and fit it with a 2322V621 belt that was too short, then a 2322V661 belt that's too long. Note that I'm using a 2322V belt in a variable speed pulley that wanted a 1922V, so I'm starting the variable speed pulley with about 1/4" expansion. Since the Autometric only uses about 2" of travel on a variable allowing 4"+ I think I'll be OK. Or I would be if there was a 2322V641 or maybe 651 belt. We'll see, I guess.

    I now need to fix the variable speed knob. Mine had the arm and knob cut off and remainder ground clean. Odd connector with a spline. it uses a 3/4 48 spline connection and I was thinking that I knew that one. Steering spline FTW. I thought, then found that the female on this mics .750 and the steering spline coupler I bought online mics .744. I mmight have to make a trip to the autoshop with my Moore leaf gage and see if I can find one closer to .750 Alternatively I might just whack one out on the mill, it'd only be a thousand or so strokes of the quill.

    In the meantime it's all reassembled and I'm able to hit all the gears and neutral doesn't grind any gears. I'm happy but still astonished at how much work that was.


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