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Powerturn Headstock Cover Removal and Filter Source

Ja_cain

Cast Iron
Joined
Feb 9, 2012
Location
USA, Virginia
Want to remove the cover on the headstock and take a peak after draining fluid for replacement. Removed the four bolts. Is there anything else that I might be missing? Will I need to scrape and reapply any sealant/gasket maker? Also, anyone have a source for locating a replacement cartridge for the filter? Many thanks in advance for info!

JustinPXL_20201201_143527772.jpgPXL_20201130_190326354.jpg

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Thanks Johnoder. Looks like the lube system has been reconfigured/changer at some point. There is no filter located here anymore and the lies have been capped off. The filter is no located in the upper right. Once I get the headstock opened up, I'm going to make sure the pump is working correctly. This lathe was rebuilt in 1990, so maybe they modified a few things.PXL_20201201_173326983.jpgPXL_20201201_173335053.jpg

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Thanks Johnoder. Looks like the lube system has been reconfigured/changer at some point. There is no filter located here anymore and the lies have been capped off. The filter is no located in the upper right. Once I get the headstock opened up, I'm going to make sure the pump is working correctly. This lathe was rebuilt in 1990, so maybe they modified a few things.View attachment 306269View attachment 306270

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I used a sharpened painters pallete knife to separate head stock covers/panels etc. The blade is pretty thin with about 1-1/2" wide blade and it's metal all the way through with just two wooden handles riveted on so you can tap the end of the knife with a hammer. If there is a gasket try not to damage it.

If there isn't a gasket I'd use " Hylomar " to seal it. That's if you can buy it in the USA. It's a sealant a bit like a blue toothpaste. It never sets hard so removing the cover at a later stage is relatively easy.

Regards Tyrone.
 
I used a sharpened painters pallete knife to separate head stock covers/panels etc. The blade is pretty thin with about 1-1/2" wide blade and it's metal all the way through with just two wooden handles riveted on so you can tap the end of the knife with a hammer. If there is a gasket try not to damage it.

If there isn't a gasket I'd use " Hylomar " to seal it. That's if you can buy it in the USA. It's a sealant a bit like a blue toothpaste. It never sets hard so removing the cover at a later stage is relatively easy.

Regards Tyrone.
The scrapper worked well. Looked like they used flexible gasket sealer.PXL_20201202_142605303.jpgPXL_20201202_143050713.jpgPXL_20201202_154929723.jpgPXL_20201202_155011313.jpgPXL_20201202_154944170.jpg

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Found it.View attachment 306396

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That looks like the stuff. It used to come in a blue packet back in the day. It was developed in conjunction with " Rolls-Royce " apparently and we always called it " Rolls-Royce Blue ".It's not cheap but it's worth it.

One place I worked at had bought a brand new " Asquith-Archdale " Powerthrust Radial drill. It was a great drill but the front panels leaked. One weekend I took them all off and sealed them with " Hylomar ".

About 6 months later " Asquith - Archdale " sent an inspector around just to make sure we were happy with the drill. I mentioned the leaks and asked him why they didn't use " Hylomar " to seal the panels. He was a typical Yorkshireman ( Motto - If tha does owt for nowt, do it for thi sen " - translated - If you do anything for nothing, do it for yourself ) and not inclined to throw money around.

He replied - " Nah Lad, yon tubes cost £2 tha knows " - Trans - No sir, those tubes cost £2 you know.
This was on a drill that would probably cost about £30 K today, even then it would have cost about £8 K.

Your painters knife looks a bit more sturdy than the one I had. I sharpened the business end on mine to a knife edge for getting in the joint more easily.

Regards Tyrone.
 








 
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