questions on my newly acquired KT 2H - Page 2
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 26 of 26
  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Central Ohio, USA
    Posts
    1,815
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    704
    Likes (Received)
    461

    Default

    A 2H Plain would weigh 3800 lbs and up. Vertical head would add to that.

    Best way to go is a tilt trailer with winch. The first would be fine, loading the 2nd would be a chore.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Missouri
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    2

    Default

    OK...update time and a couple more questions. Got the table off no problem. Lots of crud in the top of the saddle but looks like everything was getting lubrication. The felt pads and wicks are a bit "gunky" but moist with oil. Plan on replacing pads at least at this point. Don't have time to remove saddle and replace all wicks right now. Future project.

    Questions:
    1. My parts manual shows the later style saddle with the oiler instead of the pads/wicks. Is there a manual available for the early style like mine anywhere? (1942...and I have searched VintageMachinery to no avail)

    2. Below each puck is two wicks. I assume one of each of these just enters the oil reservoir in the saddle. Where does the other go?

    3. How does the tablescrew nut, the tablefeed geartrain etc recieve oil? Wicks? (Are there other wicks besides the ones under the pucks?)

    4.Addressing the original problem that has led me here...I am getting ready to turn/fabricate new bronze bushings for the bevel gear in the crossfeed bracket box, and realized I don't know what kinda clearance to provide between the bushing ID and the gear bearing surface OD. What do you guys recommend? I know I need enough for oiling, and not so much as to cause misalignment/mesh problems with the bevel gearteeth.

    Really appreciate all the responses. You guys have been great!! And I have been taking some pics along the way, and plan on uploading and updating thread so it might help future newbies!!

    Charles

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Houston, TX USA
    Posts
    28,515
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    For the smaller versions but may be informative of earlier practices. This is old enough to have simple line drawings instead of the later profusion of isometric illustrations

    http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2098/19665.pdf

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    17
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    1

    Default

    For a shaft cover might this work?
    MORI SEIKI SL-3H CNC LATHE Z AXIS BALLSCREW BALL SCREW COVER | eBay
    If that does not work then it is eBay #163197435905.

    Hope this helps.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    port allen, louisiana usa
    Posts
    1,502
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    339
    Likes (Received)
    298

    Default

    It has been several years since I had the table off of my 2hl, but I think one of the wicks oils the bevel gear and bushings under the table.. There is another gear under there that runs the auxiliary shaft as well.. Even if you don't have an auxiliary shaft running a low lead box or rotary table drive, you still have the gear and it rotates.... I think the bushings are gummed up under the table of my 2h just as they were under my 2hl.. Lack of oil.. I guess the wicks finally crapped out after many years.. Will take the table off of my 2h someday if I live long enough.. Both of my machines are the older type with the oil pocket, wicks, and oil pads.. Ramsay 1

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Missouri
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    2

    Default

    John, thanks! That gives things a different perspective!

    Mr CNC, I sent a message to seller asking for dimensions of the screw cover...might be able to use this temporarily until I find or make a tube.

    Ramsey, after seeing the wear issues mine experienced, it appears the gear bushings are the most susceptible to lack of lube caused wear. Lead screws and gibs/ways can be oiled manually, but that crossfeed box is going to suffer! And the longer you wait...



    I found out many of the oil passages were plugged as expected. And the sludge in the saddle wasn't sludge as I first thought. It was grease! Someone at some point packed grease around the table drive gears and shift fork. Guess they knew passages were plugged. So I soaked passages with kerosene for a couple of days, and using a syringe applied pressure and finally got flow through all of them. But decided I had gone this far so might as well do it right and replace felt and wicks...which means I had to pull the saddle. Now the good news! I experimented and found that with the 2H, plain saddle anyway, you DON'T have to remove the gear train/front of knee! If you pull the saddle gib and lock lever, you can lift enough to just clear the feed selector housing!
    Ordered felt and felt wick from Mcmaster Carr.
    Now, I assume the only way to get the wicks through the convoluted and interconnected passages is to blow thread with small wad of cotton (?) tied to end while blocking holes you don't want it coming out yet...then tying on larger thread/cord and pulling through, then finally small guage safety wire, then finally wick. Anyone have suggestions on this or does this sound right?

    Did find one more wear issue from the lack of lube...the crossfeed bearing box has some wear where the vertical bevel gear rides, and the cast iron (I assume), bushing that the top of the gear rides in has some wear...looking for ideas on how to fix the crossfeed box...the bevel gear tilted slightly and wore the bottom of the machined cast housing maybe .070-.100 on one side only. I can set up and bore it flat again, but that will lower the bevel gear. I have some bronze bushing material and can make an insert maybe? Will need to bore a recess and make it a slight press fit I think, in order to retain washer in proper position.
    Two other possibilities are to build up the worn area by brazing or maybe Belzona? Then machine flat again. Not sure how well the cast in these machines would braze, or if the heat might distort the casting? Then of course the gear would be riding on 1/2 braze-1/2 cast for the bearing contact area.
    I've used the Belzona for repairing shafting that was unable to be removed, and it is still holding up well. Would probably work in this application for a very long time for the limited hours that I will put on machine. Opinions???
    The cast bushing on the top I can bore and sleeve...should I use the bronze bushing stock I have for that? Or stick with cast?
    Would really appreciate some feedback on these repairs. And still need suggestions for how much clearance I need on these bevel gear bushings please!

    Thanks,
    Charles

    PS. Still considering bidding on machine mentioned earlier for a parts machine...but decided can only safely haul back one of them...oh well...


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
2