What's new
What's new

Van Norman #12 Table Feed Question

C Clement

Aluminum
Joined
Dec 13, 2007
Location
Cedar Hills, UT
I was hoping some of you who are working on or have worked on the VN12 could help me out. The lever that engages the table feed is missing. When I first looked at the parts diagram I was a little overwhelmed, then, like stoneaxe, when I got the table (very heavy, like stoneaxe's) off it all became much clearer. What I am hoping to find is a good photo of the feed lever, or better yet someone with an extra, so that I can make a replacement.

The other question I have is the purpose of the round piece with two holes in it just right of center in the first photo, it has me somewhat baffled although I am sure the explanation is simple. Again the parts diagram in the manual is a little obscure to say the least.

Thanks for all the input.

Craig
 
Here is the photos referred to above as well as a couple of the feed gears.

Thanks,

Craig
 

Attachments

  • VN Feed Lever 1.jpg
    VN Feed Lever 1.jpg
    88.6 KB · Views: 332
  • VN Feed Gears 1.jpg
    VN Feed Gears 1.jpg
    96.7 KB · Views: 336
  • VN Feed Gears 2.jpg
    VN Feed Gears 2.jpg
    96.2 KB · Views: 341
The piece with three holes is just the detents for the lever, left, right, and neutral. Lever goes on the stub shaft below and has a ball and spring that locks into the detents on the round part. If I remember right, the lever has a taper pin and a setscrew.
 
rlbleeker, I'll send a PM.

MikeC, the detents make sense as right now the table feed gear tries to engage when the table is cranked by hand.

Thanks,

Craig
 
Here is a picture, taken looking up at the part (disregard the wood, it was actually upside down on a cart.)
I assume the detent plate rotates to fine tune the engagement of the feeds? I did notice when it was together my manual feed would bump- bump bump on one direction and if I held the feed lever over a fraction it would stop- sounded like the teeth of the cogs in the clutch were just ticking past each other.

DSCN0709.jpg
 
Seeing that pic refreshed the memory, the detent ball and spring are in the left side roller assembly. Yes, the detents keep it from bumping when hand cranked, or when in neutral.

Seeing this reminds me, the only thing I really dislike about the VN feed stop.... when you hit the stop, it prevents feeding in EITHER direction, so you can't just throw the lever the other way and keep working like on a Cincy. You have to hand crank the opposite direction until it clears the stop plunger, then you can engage the feed.
 
Just wanted to post a quick update and thank all who have helped out on the rehab of the #12 mill so far.

The table feed is freed up and working almost like new, or at least what I imagine new would have been like had I been around then. With a replacement lever on its way and a very nice copy of the manual, both generously sent by PM members, I am moving on to replacing the broken silent chain drive with some other type of drive (I am leaning towards dual power link belts on pulleys) and the electrical box replacement.

Once again thanks for all the help, I would still be staring at a non-working Hendey lathe thinking that maybe HF is the way to go if it was not for all the great folks here on the PM. Now I am using the lathe to make parts for my drilling business (nothing fancy but it sure pays for the hobby) loving my little Ammco shaper (I am on the lookout for a bigger one) and getting the mill up and running. keep up the good work, it is appreciated!

Craig
 
COOL! My VN12 is in the same sort of condition, have not even been willing to contemplate the electrical box yet- Remember Dr. Frankensteins workshop with all the jacobs ladders and strange ,weird and wonderful apparatus? All we have to do is open the switch box door to get an instant replay. I could swear I smelled burning pitch in there......:D
 
Craig, whatever you do on the chain replacement, make sure it is positive drive. A cogged timing belt, roller chain, or some type of arrangement is going to be a lot better than link V belts or similar. The whole advantage of the VN type powerfeed is the positive gear drive that cannot slip or otherwise lose power during the cut. If the feed slips and then grabs, it is very likely to break the cutter when using an endmill. If it slips and grabs with a horizontal cutter or facemill, it can start a nasty chatter. A modern timing type belt is just as good and a whole lot quieter than a chain.
 
Mike C.

As I have piles of motorcycles and their associated parts cluttering my shop I had considered cobbling something together out of them for the table feed. A couple of sprockets the right size and a bit of chain should approximate the original feed. As for the noise, isn't that what the shop radio is for? I have read of the timing belt setups that others have done I was just looking to use what I have on hand and save the cash for tooling.

Craig
 
"As for the noise, isn't that what the shop radio is for?"

LOL, that's why I have a 60 watt Sony system in my shop. You ought to hear that 4" rubber belt on my L&S when the links go around the pulleys. Whack WHACKA, Whack WHACKA...
 
Hey, Craig. I was distracted today and my table went past it's limit. It's essentially locked in place now having the feed lever shaft stuck. The set screw or pin (not sure which) must have broken on the lever as I tried to move to neutral to release the table so now it's floating on it's shaft. I'm not going to stress the shaft anymore so I'm looking to remove the table so I can attempt to get the lead screw back into neutral. I appreciate the pictures you posted because it gives me a better idea of what's going on. How did you remove the table itself?
 
Not that I'm not interested anymore. This is still info I'd like to have, but I was able to "unlock" the feed handle by turning the speed feed shaft to a backlash spot.
 
If you were able to jam the table using the power feed, then someone has probably removed the permanent, limit of travel stops from the table. There is absolutely no reason to remove them. They will cut off the feed before you hit the end of travel.

Removing the table is fairly simple:
  1. Remove right hand-wheel
  2. Remove hand-wheel key from shaft
  3. Remove right hand-wheel bracket
  4. Remove table gib
  5. Support table. An engine hoist works well for this. Don't try to hold the table up by hand, it's too heavy and you'll damage it!
  6. Crank table to left until the screw disengages
  7. Slide the table off to the left

IMG_8991.jpg

There is some information in this post about removing the gib: Van Norman has landed

Cal
 
If you were able to jam the table using the power feed, then someone has probably removed the permanent, limit of travel stops from the table. There is absolutely no reason to remove them. They will cut off the feed before you hit the end of travel.

Removing the table is fairly simple:
  1. Remove right hand-wheel
  2. Remove hand-wheel key from shaft
  3. Remove right hand-wheel bracket
  4. Remove table gib
  5. Support table. An engine hoist works well for this. Don't try to hold the table up by hand, it's too heavy and you'll damage it!
  6. Crank table to left until the screw disengages
  7. Slide the table off to the left

View attachment 259782

There is some information in this post about removing the gib: Van Norman has landed

Cal

Thanks, Cal. The stop was actually on the table, but it was past the travel. I hadn't moved it, but I'll claim the oversight for not checking to see if where is was was where it should have been. I'm just glad I did no apparent damage, except to my pride. Thanks again for the info. I've got that saved and printed :)
 








 
Back
Top