Van Norman 22LU Knee Disassembly - Page 3
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 41 to 46 of 46
  1. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Minnesota
    Posts
    152
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    78
    Likes (Received)
    51

    Default

    If you know your motor is 1200 rpm just mark both pulleys, hand turn them to get a ratio, do a little math and you'll know your spindle speeds. Of course tachs are nice to have too.
    John

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Damascus, MD
    Posts
    1,409
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    4060
    Likes (Received)
    800

    Default

    I confirm that the motor of mine is 3HP 1750rpm.

    dsc01348.jpg

    I do not know if they compensated by using different pulleys or if my actual speeds are 33% higher than the original ones (I really doubt of it) . Somewhere I have a cheap laser tachometer and, if I find it, I'll measure the actual speeds.

    Paolo

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Lawrenceville, GA USA
    Posts
    480
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    263
    Likes (Received)
    59

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Uglydog View Post
    Does this mean I have justification for purchasing one of those swanky rpm gadgets?


    Daryl
    MN
    To run your mill on a VFD you will need 2 of them. One for the feed and one for the spindle. Makes more sense to me to use a RPC. This will allow you to run the mill along with any other 3-phase machines that you will obtain in the future.
    I don't think I'd worry about a few RPM's

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    New Jersey
    Posts
    135
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    35

    Default

    Hi,

    This is an old thread, however I've just worked through the clutch removal
    for a VN22LU and wanted to add some details that might help others in the future.
    Daryl (from this thread) has been very helpful, as has Twin Disc.

    First, I've uploaded a newer VN22L manual to VintageMachinery, which has better drawings.

    I had a broken clutch disc and needed to replace it. Daryl pointed me to Palmer Johnson Power Systems in WI who still have 204 clutch discs in stock for this machine. The critical information is the clutch assembly is a Twin Disc MTS403 Clutch series number 27714. The part number for the clutch driving discs is: 2215E.

    Removal of the clutch is a bit tricky, because the diagrams are hard to interpret.

    To remove the clutch the shaft it rides on needs to be moved forward, necessitating opening the knee and removing the outer plate and separating the outer from inner plates. You can't get the shaft out entirely because the clutch body is larger diameter than the hole between the front and back of the knee.
    There is a pair of setscrews (one locking outer, and one inner) in a hole in the clutch when you push the "spool" part (2L-587) toward the rear of the machine.

    (Note there is also a setscrew in part 2L-588, but this doesn't actually need to be removed for this)

    After that, the clutch portion itself is free but won't rotate since there's a woodruff key. You may need to free it up, being careful not to damage the clutch mechanism or clutch plates.

    You will want to remove the clutch first, then optionally remove the shaft entirely from the machine... removing the rear clutch plate while in the machine seems really difficult but straightforward with good access (see below).

    This is the entire assembly on the shaft:

    clutch-1.jpg

    This is part number 2L-631, when freed on the shaft and slid partially off.

    clutch-2.jpg

    There is a constant section retaining ring holding the rear plate on the clutch mechanism. You will have to loosen the clutch, then compress the rear clutch plate to expose the retaining ring and then remove that, try not to bend it.

    clutch-3.jpg

    At this point the clutch plates are free. I had one broken copper driving plate.
    These are apparently sintered, not just plain copper, as per Twin Disc.

    clutch-5.jpgclutch-4.jpg

    Thanks again to Daryl for the Twin Disc information and hints.

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    New Jersey
    Posts
    135
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    35

    Default

    One other note: Twin Disc and Palmer Johnson still have the drawings of the clutch assembly pieces and parts lists for them. I'm not posting them here because they're noted as confidential on the document.

    However if you give them a call they'll send you a copy. This helps clarify something mentioned earlier in this thread:

    - the things that look like roll pins showing on the rear of the clutch plate are shafts with springs that force the clutch plates apart when not engaged.

  6. Likes Paolo_MD, sfriedberg liked this post
  7. #46
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    New Jersey
    Posts
    135
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    35

    Default

    One other slight correction:

    There are actually two part numbers for the clutch driving plates. The rep at Palmer
    was helpful enough to determine that the picture I showed him was part number 2215, not
    2215E. Apparently the "E" part is the later sintered part-- my machine is earlier and
    has the solid brass one which is just a plain 2215.

    Both were still available, as are replacement constant section snap rings too. Should be
    here this week.


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •