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4020 Fadal how do you align the Y axis thrust bearing block to the saddle.

garychipmaker

Cast Iron
Joined
Dec 2, 2005
Location
ia
Hi I'm replacing the thrust bearings and seals for the Y axis ballscrew. the bearing block isn't doweled to the frame so how do you check the alignment when bolting the ballscrew nut to the saddle. Also I am eliminating the chiller connections to the ballscrew. And is there supposed to be air leaking from the spindle when spindle is running. I know it has an air blast when doing a tool change. Thanks again for the help.
 
Hi I'm replacing the thrust bearings and seals for the Y axis ballscrew. the bearing block isn't doweled to the frame so how do you check the alignment when bolting the ballscrew nut to the saddle.

Bring the table all the way to the back, so the ball nut is very close to the bearing block. That's probably the best way of aligning the thrust bearing.

And is there supposed to be air leaking from the spindle when spindle is running. I know it has an air blast when doing a tool change. Thanks again for the help.

Do you have an air/oil lubricated spindle? That might explain the air leak
 
My spindles all “leal air” they push air through for the air purge to keep coolant and chips out.
 
That's what I planned to do. It doesn't leave alot of room to tighten the bolts. And I thought maybe it was normal to have air at the spindle just didn't know. Thanks for the help guys
 
Yes, just make sure its free with table all the way back. The guys that sold me thrust bearings said to tighten bolts finger tight and move machine through its travel. Hopefully it will self align. Might be wishful thinking but cant hurt.

The air through spindle is normal. I put a regulator on that line and dialed it back a little. Seemed a little excessive. Its just to keep coolant out, my machine has grease pack spindle, not air/oil.
 
From my experience, it all depends on who built the spindle.

I have, what I would consider, a high quality rebuild that doesnt piss much air.
I also have a brand new China spindle from one of the "Fadal" companies. It chews through air like a fat kid after smarties.
Its also noisy, and runs out.
Guess thats what you get for $3200 Canadian micro bucks and installing yourself :wrong:
 
From my experience, it all depends on who built the spindle.

I have, what I would consider, a high quality rebuild that doesnt piss much air.
I also have a brand new China spindle from one of the "Fadal" companies. It chews through air like a fat kid after smarties.
Its also noisy, and runs out.
Guess thats what you get for $3200 Canadian micro bucks and installing yourself :wrong:

Why not share who you got it from and save us the grief down the road...
 
Why not share who you got it from and save us the grief down the road...

This- I just bought a Fadal because parts are cheap and the replacement spindles can be had for $3500. I’d like to know which to avoid (or at least find out if this was a unique event)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
I'll refrain from naming names, as I have had good service from them (for the most part).
Was purchased as a reman, but was clearly brand new. Also had either Chinese or Taiwanese qc "tags" in the packaging.
Looked good, so I tucked it away for a while until I needed it.
Located in Idaho

Should have just bought a new one from Dan @ ITS
 
I'll refrain from naming names, as I have had good service from them (for the most part).
Was purchased as a reman, but was clearly brand new. Also had either Chinese or Taiwanese qc "tags" in the packaging.
Looked good, so I tucked it away for a while until I needed it.
Located in Idaho

Should have just bought a new one from Dan @ ITS

My spindle is grease packed. Y axis is back together and running much quieter
 








 
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