Alcohol as coolant on aluminum - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Just don't use it with threading inserts . . . drunken threads and all.

    More seriously, I'm surprised to see the effect of a Sharpie, IPA (OK, that's misleading), etc. Imagine, instead of a follower, a felt tip iso-propyl alcohol applicator right in front of the cutting tool. According to the paper, could get double the cutting rates????

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  3. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfriedberg View Post
    I have used kerosene for aluminum many times. Currently, I use a spray bottle of WD-40 when cutting aluminum on the manual lathe.

    Kerosene (or other light oil) is an ancient recommendation for aluminum. This is the first I have heard about alcohol. I will have to give that a try, as the cooling effect will be huge compared to oil, and I happen to have 98% isopropanol in a spray bottle already.
    As a Cam Automatic screw machinist, thinning out some old oil with Kerosene has been the trick since forever. Even that was still pretty flammable and needed more attention. Never tried too much, but can imagine it would be great if needed.

  4. #23
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    I like the sharpie but is it black or red as each is if different on surface etching.
    No one in there right mind mind wants to go down this rabbit hole.
    Therein lies shear madness.
    If if works, just run with it.
    That is the the whole deal, I have something strange and it makes parts. Just go make parts no matter how different you are.
    Maybe try different. There is no right or best practice.
    Bob

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    I use IPA on the old CNC Bridgeport Interact on occasion, particularly when it's a part that's heating up quite a bit, squirting with a lab squirt bottle will cool things down in a hurry. One of the helpful mechanisms may be that it vaporizes at such a low temp with the subsequent very fast/effective evaporative (versus conduction with coolants) heat-removal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MattiJ View Post
    .....
    I bet not many use whole milk for copper machining on CNC's either

    I've used "Half and Half" for drilling copper on manual machines since the 70's. My dad showed me that trick when I was a kid.

    PM

  7. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by car2 View Post
    I use IPA on the old CNC Bridgeport Interact on occasion, particularly when it's a part that's heating up quite a bit, squirting with a lab squirt bottle will cool things down in a hurry. One of the helpful mechanisms may be that it vaporizes at such a low temp with the subsequent very fast/effective evaporative (versus conduction with coolants) heat-removal.
    I don't know what IPA is in the US but you can only buy it in pubs in the UK.

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    Quote Originally Posted by camscan View Post
    I don't know what IPA is in the US but you can only buy it in pubs in the UK.
    I use stout for roll threading.

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    Quote Originally Posted by camscan View Post
    I don't know what IPA is in the US but you can only buy it in pubs in the UK.
    (IPA=Isopropyl Alcohol). The only source of reasonably priced pure ethanol in small volume is 190 proof from the liquor store (pricey); denatured alcohol has methanol, and who knows what to "poison" it. I use Everclear for thinning shellac flakes occasionally.

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    Quote Originally Posted by D.D.Machine View Post
    I use Alcohol a lot for sawing 6061 and have found spray-n-wash works great for tapping on the Bridgeport ,,, I was using A-9 for tapping but it left spots on my shirts as did WD-40 … I get gallons of Spray-n-wash at Costco and use it on all my manual machines for alum ..
    Ok, maybe I'm the only curious one...

    How did you look at a bottle of spray n wash in your laundry room, and decide you were going to spritz it in the 4-40 hole you were gonna tap?

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    Quote Originally Posted by TeachMePlease View Post
    Ok, maybe I'm the only curious one...

    How did you look at a bottle of spray n wash in your laundry room, and dciede you were going to spritz it in the 4-40 hole you were gonna tap?
    Maybe after drinking some IPA at lunch? (India Pale Ale)

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    Somehow misting a flammable substance doesn't sound like a good idea, especially for someone like me who pushes the feeds and speeds.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dualkit View Post
    Somehow misting a flammable substance doesn't sound like a good idea, especially for someone like me who pushes the feeds and speeds.

    Push it till it catches on fire, then back off 10% on the next part...

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    Quote Originally Posted by CarbideBob View Post
    I like the sharpie but is it black or red as each is if different on surface etching.
    No one in there right mind mind wants to go down this rabbit hole.
    Therein lies shear madness.
    If if works, just run with it.
    That is the the whole deal, I have something strange and it makes parts. Just go make parts no matter how different you are.
    Maybe try different. There is no right or best practice.
    Bob
    what did you say? o.O

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    ok, I found this a bit funny. A couple years ago I got this job that had a back spot face on some cast 356. It first I tried WD-40. It didn't work, as it lubricated the edge of the spot face, so it wouldn't cut, it would just glide around the surface. Kinda like if you try putting oil on a hacksaw blade. The other problem it was causing the spot face body to gall up on the pilot shaft. So I tried cutting oil, same problems. I tried tapmatic, same problems.

    So then, out of desperation, I had a can of window cleaner sitting there, so I sprayed window cleaner on it. It's unbelievable how well it worked. Kept the part nice and cool, bitchin bright finish, no galling. So for the last couple years that's what I've been using, with great success.

    When I noticed this thread, I grabbed a can of this window cleaner, and sure as shit it's got alcohol in it. It's called "Spray Way ammonia free glass cleaner" from either Costo or Sams, comes in a 4 pack and it's dirt cheap. Best part is, if the fire Marshall were to stroll through and see someone spraying alcohol on a cutting tool he'd shit his pants. But a can of Glass Cleaner? Nobody would bat an eye.

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  19. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Dickman View Post
    ok, I found this a bit funny. A couple years ago I got this job that had a back spot face on some cast 356. It first I tried WD-40. It didn't work, as it lubricated the edge of the spot face, so it wouldn't cut, it would just glide around the surface. Kinda like if you try putting oil on a hacksaw blade. The other problem it was causing the spot face body to gall up on the pilot shaft. So I tried cutting oil, same problems. I tried tapmatic, same problems.

    So then, out of desperation, I had a can of window cleaner sitting there, so I sprayed window cleaner on it. It's unbelievable how well it worked. Kept the part nice and cool, bitchin bright finish, no galling. So for the last couple years that's what I've been using, with great success.

    When I noticed this thread, I grabbed a can of this window cleaner, and sure as shit it's got alcohol in it. It's called "Spray Way ammonia free glass cleaner" from either Costo or Sams, comes in a 4 pack and it's dirt cheap. Best part is, if the fire Marshall were to stroll through and see someone spraying alcohol on a cutting tool he'd shit his pants. But a can of Glass Cleaner? Nobody would bat an eye.
    As an added bonus, that's my favorite stuff for cleaning glass too! Works better than anything else I've found. Now I have even more reason to pick it up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Dickman View Post

    When I noticed this thread, I grabbed a can of this window cleaner, and sure as shit it's got alcohol in it. It's called "Spray Way ammonia free glass cleaner" from either Costo or Sams, comes in a 4 pack and it's dirt cheap. Best part is, if the fire Marshall were to stroll through and see someone spraying alcohol on a cutting tool he'd shit his pants. But a can of Glass Cleaner? Nobody would bat an eye.
    Car window washer fluid is what I have used. Winter concentrate is ~90% Ethanol around here.
    Easily available and cheap. Just check that it doesn't contain methanol.


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