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Aligning turret on Mori CL-253
- Thread starter cnczack
- Start date
- Replies 16
- Views 1,922
Hardplates
Stainless
- Joined
- May 8, 2019
- Location
- What once was a free country
I would think it would be like almost every other turning center.
Pull the turret
Pull the taper pins from the curvic coupling
Reinstall turret and align with a soft hammer
Tighten curvic bolts
Reinstall all bolts, sheet metal exc
I have a machine that the curvic bolts come in from the rear of the turret so you have to snug them, install the turret and align it, then remove the turret and carefully tighten the bolts without the curvic moving. Then reinstall the turret and check alignment again.
While I'm sure there are some odd ball machines out there most should be able to have the curvic aligned in an hour or so, maybe less
I want stuff to move in the event of a crash. If it moves maybe nothing will break. That said I never put back taper pins and also pulled the ground shims and side bolts that pull the head against them for tramming the head on one of my mills
Pull the turret
Pull the taper pins from the curvic coupling
Reinstall turret and align with a soft hammer
Tighten curvic bolts
Reinstall all bolts, sheet metal exc
I have a machine that the curvic bolts come in from the rear of the turret so you have to snug them, install the turret and align it, then remove the turret and carefully tighten the bolts without the curvic moving. Then reinstall the turret and check alignment again.
While I'm sure there are some odd ball machines out there most should be able to have the curvic aligned in an hour or so, maybe less
I want stuff to move in the event of a crash. If it moves maybe nothing will break. That said I never put back taper pins and also pulled the ground shims and side bolts that pull the head against them for tramming the head on one of my mills
Hardplates
Stainless
- Joined
- May 8, 2019
- Location
- What once was a free country
Replacing them without re-reaming them is a sure way to get the turret out of alignment. If there isn't a master hole that didn't have a taper pin installed it takes even longer.
The taper pins can't bend without some plastic deformation of the holes
That's right you have to re reaming the holes.
But it takes some skills to do it right.
If you don't do this job often it's easier to leave the pins out.
Vancbiker
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2014
- Location
- Vancouver, WA. USA
If pins were in it when crashed it is proper to remove the coupling and stone down the raised metal around the pin hole. Leave out the pins on reassembly. They just add work to the job or re-aligning after the next crash with no benefit regarding machine performance.
GENERALDISARRAY
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2019
Proof of this is that they have ditched pins on the curvic altogether.
What do you mean?
GENERALDISARRAY
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2019
the three piece curvic on a NL or NLX has no pins, excluding the adjustment cam pin. It relies on clamp pressure of the bolts alone to resist moving.
Hardplates
Stainless
- Joined
- May 8, 2019
- Location
- What once was a free country
If machine is crashed hard enough something will move, if nothing can move then something will likely break such as a casting. Generally speaking alignments are both cheaper and faster than replacing major components.
Even if the turret only slips 0.010" that dissipates a huge amount of energy that otherwise would have been transferred elsewhere. It's the same principal as F1 cars and drag boats being designed to break up into pieces in the event of a crash. Every part that liberates from the main body takes with it a large amount of energy that can no longer effect the driver.....unless the part comes back and hits them
Even if the turret only slips 0.010" that dissipates a huge amount of energy that otherwise would have been transferred elsewhere. It's the same principal as F1 cars and drag boats being designed to break up into pieces in the event of a crash. Every part that liberates from the main body takes with it a large amount of energy that can no longer effect the driver.....unless the part comes back and hits them
I know this has been a month ago but im just now getting around to pulling the turret. I pulled it, then got the pins out, then got the curvic coupling off. Im sitting here looking at it and just dont understand, how when i go to put it back on that i will be able to move anything to align it. it looks like the bolt go thru the turret to the coupling and tighten down. almost like there wouldnt be any wiggle room to smack it around. I can post pics if it would help as well
hahn_rossman
Plastic
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2010
- Location
- Seattle
This video is for an Okuma, but it's a pretty good example of the combination of mechanical adjustment and software needed:
Okuma lb25 turret alignment - YouTube
I was confused by your intial post, because X axis misalignment would just be a software adjustment. If it's out in Y, you need to rotate the curvic coupling to move the pocket up or down in Y. Because it moves on an arc, this also effects the X alignment...which is adjusted with a software parameter.
Good luck, it mostly just fussy and annoying but satisfying once you get it dialed!
Hahn Rossman
Okuma lb25 turret alignment - YouTube
I was confused by your intial post, because X axis misalignment would just be a software adjustment. If it's out in Y, you need to rotate the curvic coupling to move the pocket up or down in Y. Because it moves on an arc, this also effects the X alignment...which is adjusted with a software parameter.
Good luck, it mostly just fussy and annoying but satisfying once you get it dialed!
Hahn Rossman
Thats what i was getting confused about. If the curvic coupling is directly connect via screws to the turret. how can i adjust the curvic? On a newer okuma we have I always just losen the curvic coupling a little and smacked it around and tightened it. On this one now that i have it totally taken apart and im looking at it i dont see how i could move it if it screws into it and moves as one piece. i hope this makes sense
Dan from Oakland
Titanium
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2005
- Location
- Oakland, CA
Leave the coupling bolts slightly loose, reassemble the turret to the machine, then indicate a tool pocket by jogging the X axis. The tool slot should indicate 0-0. If not, put a bar in a tool pocket and pry the turret to shift it rotationally on the coupling. Re-indicate the pocket- rinse and repeat. Then remove the turret and tighten the crap out of the coupling bolts and then reassemble things. IT may not seem like much, but the clearance between the bolt bores and the bolts will be enough to shift things around. Hope this clarifies things. Kinda barbaric, but that's how its done. You might need a LONG bar in the tool pocket to shift the turret into position. A few whacks on the bar with a BIG hammer may also be needed depending on how "snug" you tighten the turret/coupling bolts. Not tight enough and you loose alignment when you pull the turret back off- too tight and you can't tweak the turret.
ive currently got the coupling off on the "turret/shaft face side" to pull the pins. Ill give it a go when i put it back togehter. Ive just never gone this deep into a machine but sounds about like ive done in the past minus the removing the pins and pulling the turret
