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Anyone familiar with machining these types of parts?
- Thread starter colby2000
- Start date
- Replies 4
- Views 1,680
Vancbiker
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2014
- Location
- Vancouver, WA. USA
One of the drawings tells you how. Lapping or coining.
Man you could read that? Might be time to get my prescription checked.
dandrummerman21
Stainless
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2008
- Location
- MI, USA
Yeah, the print is terribly small but I found the lapping/coining comment.
I've got experience making similar parts, although the ball was a fair bit bigger (I think it was 1/4 or 5/16 ball)
The seats were about 2" deep inside a 1.25" or so hole. The print had a 118 drill point down to the seat area, which was specified at 60* included.
I whirlyground the drill point so I was certain to hit the 118* angle with the 1" drill (seems our drill sharpener can't be trusted to make a true 118*), then we drilled the thru hole, then I came back with a carbide centerdrill and used it as an angled endmill to interpolate the seat (plunging it caused chatter). I'm sure I tried several different tools, tried the centerdrill before drilling through, etc. We also bought some center laps to try. But this is what worked best.
We then dropped a ball in, pinged it with a custom punch with a ball bearing underneath, and inspected it for gouges/chatter/etc with a bore scope.
Our parts were made from 1045, wasn't HT or anything. Terrible material, terrible job. Ground all over. Was a major pain in the ass. the ball seats were probably the easiest part though. There were 2 of those seats per part.
Your part is a lot shallower (L/D ratio) than the part I was running, and you've got a lathe job there rather than my mill job. Hopefully your material is better too. Just get that angle looking really pretty and hit it with a ball to make it prettier. 16 micro isn't that bad. Will you have to actually test the pressure?
I've got experience making similar parts, although the ball was a fair bit bigger (I think it was 1/4 or 5/16 ball)
The seats were about 2" deep inside a 1.25" or so hole. The print had a 118 drill point down to the seat area, which was specified at 60* included.
I whirlyground the drill point so I was certain to hit the 118* angle with the 1" drill (seems our drill sharpener can't be trusted to make a true 118*), then we drilled the thru hole, then I came back with a carbide centerdrill and used it as an angled endmill to interpolate the seat (plunging it caused chatter). I'm sure I tried several different tools, tried the centerdrill before drilling through, etc. We also bought some center laps to try. But this is what worked best.
We then dropped a ball in, pinged it with a custom punch with a ball bearing underneath, and inspected it for gouges/chatter/etc with a bore scope.
Our parts were made from 1045, wasn't HT or anything. Terrible material, terrible job. Ground all over. Was a major pain in the ass. the ball seats were probably the easiest part though. There were 2 of those seats per part.
Your part is a lot shallower (L/D ratio) than the part I was running, and you've got a lathe job there rather than my mill job. Hopefully your material is better too. Just get that angle looking really pretty and hit it with a ball to make it prettier. 16 micro isn't that bad. Will you have to actually test the pressure?
Vancbiker
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2014
- Location
- Vancouver, WA. USA
Well, I was using a 30"screen and blew it up a bit. Coining valve seats is a really common process if one has experience making hydraulic system components.