Anything I can put under a semi-permanent subplate to stop corrosion?

G

Garwood

Diamond

Joined

Oct 10, 2009

Location

Oregon

• Jun 10, 2020

• #1

Fitting a 2" aluminum ground subplate (not anodized) to a 27" x 67" table on my VMC. The existing table top surface had lots of corrosion damage from a previous fixture/riser block setup that allowed wet steel chips to fester on the table for years at a time. I cleaned it off to the point it's flat and useful again, but there's still pockets of pitting and rust. I think I've cleaned and stoned to the extent I'm going to.

I'd like to not pull this subplate off for awhile. Maybe never.

Should I just stick with a wipe down of way oil? Anyone use a sealant in a situation like this? I feel like a sealant would have to be in spray form for the size of this .

Thanks!

 

M

Milland

Diamond

Joined

Jul 6, 2006

Location

Hillsboro, New Hampshire

• Jun 10, 2020

• #2

Think about using a rigid plastic sheet as an isolator, something like 1/32" Delrin or PET would be rigid enough to not cold flow, but stable enough that you'd maintain a flat surface after cutting your Al plate.

You could even lightly grease both sides of the plastic before final assembly, as you should have enough clamping points for stability, and the grease (or even a low-strength RTV?) would further seal the area from coolant ingress.

This isn't quite the size you need, but it gives an idea of price (under $30) for acetal: McMaster-Carr

 

B

Bob E

Hot Rolled

Joined

Sep 25, 2006

Location

Middletown, PA

• Jun 10, 2020

• #3

A customer of mine used wax paper between his new table and aluminum fixture plate.
Seemed like a good idea... and he removed it recently with little (not none) adverse affects.

 

Mud

Diamond

Joined

May 20, 2002

Location

South Central PA

• Jun 11, 2020

• #4

We use Kendall SHP grease, it's very resistant to washout, I've used it in exactly that situation under a 26 X 52 sub plate for a 5+ years long application, worked well,

 

D

DMF_TomB

Diamond

Joined

Dec 13, 2008

Location

Rochester, NY, USA

• Jun 11, 2020

• #5

brush plating, nickel
.
its like a electric magic marker, dip cloth covered electrode connected to power supply in chemicals and rub on surface. takes alot of time to plate on .001" but relatively fast to put on .0001" literally often see in seconds color change but thicker coating takes longer
.
of course once nickel on you can plate on gold if you want. looks cool and obviously plating wouldnt be thick cause gold is expensive
nickel, cobalt, copper is cheaper, brush plating used to bring worn bearing journals back up to size. printing press cylinders gold often used to fill scratches, small dings to keep ink out. gold soft easy to sand/lap smooth, color contrast easy to see where it is. i had a gold plated pocket knife once, was curious, can apply in roughly 30 seconds, larger areas take longer
.
brushplating - Google Search

 

plastikdreams

Diamond

Joined

May 31, 2011

Location

upstate nj

• Jun 11, 2020

• #6

Slide "no rust"... It's no joke and they will send you a full size free sample. It's a spray on. Did an outdoor test vrs a crc product on a freshly turned piece of 1018. After months of being outside in the elements the crc side was rusted like there was nothing applied, the slide side had pretty much no rust.

 

litlerob1

Diamond

Joined

Nov 4, 2013

Location

Utah, USA

• Jun 12, 2020

• #7

Saran wrap is okay if the subplate is not going to move, at all. Minimize Oxidization, right?

R

 

OCTANE WORKHOLD

Aluminum

Joined

Jun 5, 2020

Location

Pennsylvania, USA

• Jun 12, 2020

• #8

6 months or less and LPS3 will probably suffice, be sure to spray it down in the T-slots as well. If you leave unfinished aluminum on longer it may cause some issues. If you do want to leave it permanently the plastic separator sounds like a decent idea if the sub plate still indicates zero when swept on top of it.

 

G

Garwood

Diamond

Joined

Oct 10, 2009

Location

Oregon

• Jun 12, 2020

• #9

I have a drum of Kendall SHP, so I slathered some of that on. I hope the grease fills in the rust pits and makes for less work if it ever comes off.

I also put in for a free sample of the slide no rust to try out.

 

Phil in Montana

Stainless

Joined

Jul 31, 2007

Location

Missoula Mt

• Jun 12, 2020

• #10

I use wax thinned with oil...Phil

 

G

G00 Proto

Hot Rolled

Joined

Feb 18, 2013

Location

Dirkdirkistan, ID

• Jun 15, 2020

• #11

We got exponentially less corrosion with aluminum sub-plates by anodizing them before we put them down. I think it gave an electrical insulation that prevented galvanic corrosion between the cast iron and aluminum... besides, they look nicer and the monkeys treated them better. I went Haas Red... It looked great and hid the blood

 

A

AARONT

Stainless

Joined

Feb 19, 2013

Location

Madison, WI

• Jun 15, 2020

• #12

DuPont Teflon Dry Film Lube. I haven't used it for that application, but it works very well for keeping rust off of fixtures we haven't touched in months or over a year. May be worth a shot.

 

doug925

Titanium

Joined

Nov 21, 2002

Location

Houston

• Jun 16, 2020

• #13

I use straight coolant concentrate as a anti corrosion barrier, and to cut down on staining the table. (our coolant is Hangsterfers S500)
On my '06 Hurco VMX, we have a 2" AL subplate. We have removed it a 1/2 dozen times since new. Each time, there is no rust, corrosion, nor much in the way of table stains.

Doug.