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bar pulling hex on a Okuma lathe with no spindle orientation. Fanuc 18i-T

yardbird

Titanium
Joined
Jul 3, 2013
Location
Indiana
Anyone have a slick way to position the spindle to pull hex on a machine with no M19 or spindle orientation? Not crazy about the store bought pullers claiming to pull hex. Can't turn the hex off of the front to make it round then pull.

Its 1 3/8" aluminum hex.

Anyone know the spindle orientation option parameter for a Fanuc 18i-T? Isn't this is a fairly basic feature of a lathe? Are the chances good this could be turned on without different firmware or additional hardware?

A machine that will synchronize the spindle to thread has to know where the spindle rotational position is, don't it? Thanks...

Brent
 
There is a puller with 2 wheels that does hex stock good ,, I used it on a SL10 a few years ago and it worked great ,, I think its called "EASY puller"

I recall some youtube videos on it,,

other thing that works for some parts is use your parting tool ,, cut the finished part most of the way off then kill the spindle and back off a little in X and pull the part in z . spin it back up and finish the part off ...

if your having to hold a tight part length, run your part off grove in a little , then do the OD and front of the part then go back with the part off tool. but that way you well have 2 times your part lenght sticking out ..

I used a parting tool a lot of times to pull stock and as long as you back off the X by like .03 I have never chipped a insert ,,
 
there was an old trick from a seimens control
use the G32 threading cycle
doesn't matter what tool or where the tool is
This is not an M19 but does get you close to what you want with a little experimentation of RPM and distance/feed
if the M5 is read last put it in the same line as the g32

M3S100
G0X5.0Z10.0
G4U.5
G32Z10.5F.05
M5
 
When working with hex stock and bar pulling we simply use the cutoff tool to plunge to the full diameter .125" beyond the cutoff length and have the bar puller grab .100" of that turned diameter for pulling.

Then when facing for the next piece after pulling we just add 1 extra facing cut due to the additional stock for pulling.

Done it that way for years without any issues ever. Works great!
 
There is a puller with 2 wheels that does hex stock good ,, I used it on a SL10 a few years ago and it worked great ,, I think its called "EASY puller"

I recall some youtube videos on it,,

other thing that works for some parts is use your parting tool ,, cut the finished part most of the way off then kill the spindle and back off a little in X and pull the part in z . spin it back up and finish the part off ...

if your having to hold a tight part length, run your part off grove in a little , then do the OD and front of the part then go back with the part off tool. but that way you well have 2 times your part lenght sticking out ..

I used a parting tool a lot of times to pull stock and as long as you back off the X by like .03 I have never chipped a insert ,,

Interesting! I would in a million years never thought of doing that with the parting tool.

Brent
 
there was an old trick from a seimens control
use the G32 threading cycle
doesn't matter what tool or where the tool is
This is not an M19 but does get you close to what you want with a little experimentation of RPM and distance/feed
if the M5 is read last put it in the same line as the g32

M3S100
G0X5.0Z10.0
G4U.5
G32Z10.5F.05
M5

Good idea! I could see if you fooled around with this you could get it to stop where you wanted it to. Probably repeat fairly close also.

Brent
 
I ran a 1-1/2” hex bar-pull part for years.

I made a “puller fork”, with one leg longer than the other. When feeding into the bar in the X-direction, the long fork-leg would engage the hex bar first, and roll it (and the spindle) parallel to the inside of the fork-legs.

Then, continuing to feed into the bar in X, both puller legs would slide over the bar flats, and not the corners.

Allow about .005” interference for between your fork legs and the flats of the hex bar, and it would pull perfect every time, and not bugger up the hex.

Good luck!

ToolCat
 
If you are running short bars in your drawtube, a rotary union, some air pressure and an o-ringed piston in the draw tube works pretty well for a bar pusher. Set a stop on your turret, unclamp, bang, clamp, go.
 
If you have any room behind the lathe, it's pretty cheap and easy to build a pneumatic feeder. As Dan pointed out, a tube,a piston, and air pressure.

R
 
YouTube
easy puller not setup just pull

I haven't used one to say how repeatable to pulls are, but adding a face pass on the next part after the pull will alleviate a few thou of inaccuracy.
 
Have you just tried running it like a normal shaft? I found that the bar puller will turn the chuck and line it up. Kind of like what cnctoolcat was saying.
Try it out once, just feed it in slow.
 








 
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