What's new
What's new

Best Coolant - Best High Pressure Through Spindle Coolant

Toolmaker84

Plastic
Joined
Feb 21, 2019
I am getting a new machine and I want to know some opinions on your favorite coolants esp. High pressure through spindle coolant. I will be machining pretty much all the materials you can think of. Please be specific. I am looking at Blaser Synergy 735. Does anyone have this.
 
I am getting a new machine and I want to know some opinions on your favorite coolants esp. High pressure through spindle coolant. I will be machining pretty much all the materials you can think of. Please be specific. I am looking at Blaser Synergy 735. Does anyone have this.
Speaking of specificity, maybe you could clue us in to what machine this is on and the type of filtration that will be used, and what exactly you mean by "high pressure". Are we talking 300psi or 2,000psi? Are you filtering to 1 micron or 20 micron?

For what it's worth, at 2 micron filtration and 450psi, Oemeta Hycut has been flawless for us. No skin issues, doesn't smell like flowers nor does it smell like a skunk, easy maintenance, and it's the best cleaner in the shop.
 
I'm using Hangstefers S787D in a VF-3SS with 1000PSI TSC. I usually cut 17-4 H900 and Ti6Al4V-ELI. No complaints. I change it out every six months but it never gets stinky.
 
I'm using Hangstefers S787D in a VF-3SS with 1000PSI TSC. I usually cut 17-4 H900 and Ti6Al4V-ELI. No complaints. I change it out every six months but it never gets stinky.
One of the things I like about Oemeta Hycut is that sump life is measured in years with no special maintenance. I don't even skim ours. I only had ours changed after our fire because it might potentially have an issue after sitting for 3 months. Which it didn't.
 
Speaking of specificity, maybe you could clue us in to what machine this is on and the type of filtration that will be used, and what exactly you mean by "high pressure". Are we talking 300psi or 2,000psi? Are you filtering to 1 micron or 20 micron?

For what it's worth, at 2 micron filtration and 450psi, Oemeta Hycut has been flawless for us. No skin issues, doesn't smell like flowers nor does it smell like a skunk, easy maintenance, and it's the best cleaner in the shop.

Filtration is critical. if you filter the coolant through too tight a filter, the coolant can separate. Talking to not just the coolant manufacturers but the pump builders is key. Higher PSI means more heat and more chance to see coolant issues.
 
Speaking of specificity, maybe you could clue us in to what machine this is on and the type of filtration that will be used, and what exactly you mean by "high pressure". Are we talking 300psi or 2,000psi? Are you filtering to 1 micron or 20 micron?

For what it's worth, at 2 micron filtration and 450psi, Oemeta Hycut has been flawless for us. No skin issues, doesn't smell like flowers nor does it smell like a skunk, easy maintenance, and it's the best cleaner in the shop.

Thanks for the replies. It will be a 1000 psi system. From what I can tell it is a 2 micron filter.
 
Few Tips

I am getting a new machine and I want to know some opinions on your favorite coolants esp. High pressure through spindle coolant. I will be machining pretty much all the materials you can think of. Please be specific. I am looking at Blaser Synergy 735. Does anyone have this.

Congrats on the new machine, I know you're proud...

Few tips. Coolant pressure and flow shouldn't affect most coolants. If you have a high-pressure pump, you could have some mechanical foaming issues if you have aeration.

For aluminum and copper, you need to watch 2 things primarily. First is staining. Many coolants still have ingredients that will stain yellow metals and aluminum. Second, the nature of Aluminum makes it a more difficult metal to deal with from a lubrication standpoint.

Fully-clear synthetics are usually very powerful products. However, I will caution that they're difficult to manage because the product is clear and thus harder to test in a refrac. I've seen people let it dip down under 3% and have rust issues because they didn't leave enough product in the concentration. If you run too much, you're going to strip all the paint off the machine and leave residues all over everything.

I'd still run a clean-running semi-synthetic with some oil content, and I love clear, full synthetics. They're going to provide the lubrication you need in every application.

Finally, some machine builders don't like full synthetics, very particularly Japanese and German machine tool builders. I'd check on this particularly so you don't have any warranty issues.
 
Congrats on the new machine, I know you're proud...

Few tips. Coolant pressure and flow shouldn't affect most coolants. If you have a high-pressure pump, you could have some mechanical foaming issues if you have aeration.

For aluminum and copper, you need to watch 2 things primarily. First is staining. Many coolants still have ingredients that will stain yellow metals and aluminum. Second, the nature of Aluminum makes it a more difficult metal to deal with from a lubrication standpoint.

Fully-clear synthetics are usually very powerful products. However, I will caution that they're difficult to manage because the product is clear and thus harder to test in a refrac. I've seen people let it dip down under 3% and have rust issues because they didn't leave enough product in the concentration. If you run too much, you're going to strip all the paint off the machine and leave residues all over everything.

I'd still run a clean-running semi-synthetic with some oil content, and I love clear, full synthetics. They're going to provide the lubrication you need in every application.

Finally, some machine builders don't like full synthetics, very particularly Japanese and German machine tool builders. I'd check on this particularly so you don't have any warranty issues.

Who do you rep for ?
 








 
Back
Top